Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Moura, Larissa Leal
Data de Publicação: 2018
Tipo de documento: Dissertação
Idioma: por
Título da fonte: Repositório Institucional da UFS
Texto Completo: http://ri.ufs.br/jspui/handle/riufs/9290
Resumo: Fashion emerged in the West in the Renaissance, where it played the role of social distinction, since the clothes were not accessible to all classes and, consequently, by the way it was dressed, it was possible to identify which social layer that subject belonged to. According to Lipovetsky (2009), what defines the fashion system is the conjunction of the logics of the ephemeral and aesthetic fantasy, which only found space in modern societies. Anthony Giddens (1991) asserts that the modern era differs from others, especially because of its high dynamism, such a rapid pace of social change has never been seen in other times as it does in modernity. In addition, the breadth and depth of social change is much greater, affecting social practices and modes of behavior, so-called "late modernity" is the present moment, the most marked phase of its characteristics. In Psychology, fashion plays a significant role in identity, acting between the individual and society, because through clothing it is possible to express and communicate and, in many cases, it functions as a symbol of belonging. When we think of fashion as an expression of identity in the contemporary world, the notion of identity adopted was that of the postmodern subject of Stuart Hall (2006), who considers it fragmented, multiple, contradictory, breaking with the vision of identity of traditional societies. In the light of this, a bibliographical review of articles on this topic in Psychology in Portuguese, in the last ten years (2007-2017), on the SciELO website (Scientific Electronic Library Online) and on the electronic journals of the PePSIC, with the objective of ascertaining what has been produced on this subject. In the subsequent stage, an exploratory study was conducted through a focus group with six young people aged 19 to 24, conducted twice, in order to investigate the relationship between fashion and identity, as this appears in their discourse about the way they dress. The data were elaborated through Bardin's (2016) content analysis, defined by Moraes (1999) as "a research methodology used to describe and interpret the content of every class of documents and texts." Based on the theoretical foundation, the categories were created social positioning, self-expression, values/ideals and gender and sexuality, articulating the results to the central reflection on fashion and identity in the contemporary world. It was noticed that the notion of identity is not limited only to the clothing, but to the own speech presented by the members of the group, who made use of specific terms of the fashion area, establishing a kind of connection between such members, despite the identified identity distinctions for themselves. Because it is a focal group carried out with young people with some previous knowledge about fashion, it was possible to perceive, also, reflections on the use of fashion in an ambivalent relationship, characterized by the search for belonging in specific groups and by the differentiation of the subject, as a form of to position itself politically and socially. In the discussion, transferential and countertransferential aspects were presented, from the choice of study object, to the composition of the group and even in relation to the procedure and progress of the research, as well as my participation as a researcher.
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spelling Moura, Larissa LealCunha, Eduardo Leal2018-10-18T19:52:41Z2018-10-18T19:52:41Z2018-07-19MOURA, Larissa Leal. Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo. 2018. 97 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Psicologia Social) - Universidade Federal de Sergipe, São Cristóvão, SE, 2018.http://ri.ufs.br/jspui/handle/riufs/9290Fashion emerged in the West in the Renaissance, where it played the role of social distinction, since the clothes were not accessible to all classes and, consequently, by the way it was dressed, it was possible to identify which social layer that subject belonged to. According to Lipovetsky (2009), what defines the fashion system is the conjunction of the logics of the ephemeral and aesthetic fantasy, which only found space in modern societies. Anthony Giddens (1991) asserts that the modern era differs from others, especially because of its high dynamism, such a rapid pace of social change has never been seen in other times as it does in modernity. In addition, the breadth and depth of social change is much greater, affecting social practices and modes of behavior, so-called "late modernity" is the present moment, the most marked phase of its characteristics. In Psychology, fashion plays a significant role in identity, acting between the individual and society, because through clothing it is possible to express and communicate and, in many cases, it functions as a symbol of belonging. When we think of fashion as an expression of identity in the contemporary world, the notion of identity adopted was that of the postmodern subject of Stuart Hall (2006), who considers it fragmented, multiple, contradictory, breaking with the vision of identity of traditional societies. In the light of this, a bibliographical review of articles on this topic in Psychology in Portuguese, in the last ten years (2007-2017), on the SciELO website (Scientific Electronic Library Online) and on the electronic journals of the PePSIC, with the objective of ascertaining what has been produced on this subject. In the subsequent stage, an exploratory study was conducted through a focus group with six young people aged 19 to 24, conducted twice, in order to investigate the relationship between fashion and identity, as this appears in their discourse about the way they dress. The data were elaborated through Bardin's (2016) content analysis, defined by Moraes (1999) as "a research methodology used to describe and interpret the content of every class of documents and texts." Based on the theoretical foundation, the categories were created social positioning, self-expression, values/ideals and gender and sexuality, articulating the results to the central reflection on fashion and identity in the contemporary world. It was noticed that the notion of identity is not limited only to the clothing, but to the own speech presented by the members of the group, who made use of specific terms of the fashion area, establishing a kind of connection between such members, despite the identified identity distinctions for themselves. Because it is a focal group carried out with young people with some previous knowledge about fashion, it was possible to perceive, also, reflections on the use of fashion in an ambivalent relationship, characterized by the search for belonging in specific groups and by the differentiation of the subject, as a form of to position itself politically and socially. In the discussion, transferential and countertransferential aspects were presented, from the choice of study object, to the composition of the group and even in relation to the procedure and progress of the research, as well as my participation as a researcher.A moda surgiu no Ocidente, na época da Renascença, onde desempenhava papel de distinção social, uma vez que as roupas não eram acessíveis a todas as classes e, consequentemente, pela forma como se vestia, era possível identificar a qual camada social aquele sujeito pertencia. Segundo Lipovetsky (2009), o que define o sistema de moda é a conjunção das lógicas do efêmero e da fantasia estética, que só encontrou espaço nas sociedades modernas. Anthony Giddens (1991) afirma que a era moderna se diferencia das demais, principalmente, por seu alto dinamismo, nunca se viu um ritmo tão acelerado de mudança social em outras épocas como ocorre na modernidade. Além disso, a amplitude e a profundidade das mudanças sociais são muito maiores, afetando as práticas sociais e os modos de comportamento, a chamada “modernidade tardia” é o momento atual, a fase mais acentuada de suas características. Na Psicologia, a moda tem papel significativo no que se refere à identidade, atuando entre o indivíduo e a sociedade, pois por meio do vestuário é possível expressar-se e se comunicar e, em muitos casos, ela funciona como símbolo de pertencimento. Ao se pensar na moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo, a noção de identidade adotada foi a do sujeito pós-moderno de Stuart Hall (2006), que a considera fragmentada, múltipla, podendo ser contraditória entre si, rompendo com a visão de identidade única e permanente das sociedades tradicionais. Diante disto, inicialmente foi feito um levantamento bibliográfico de artigos sobre este tema na Psicologia, em português, nos últimos dez anos (2007-2017), no site do SciELO (Scientific Electronic Library Online) e dos periódicos eletrônicos do PePSIC (portal de Periódicos Eletrônicos de Psicologia) com o objetivo de averiguar o que vem sendo produzido sobre este assunto. Na etapa posterior, foi feita uma pesquisa exploratória por meio de grupo focal com seis jovens de 19 a 24 anos, realizado duas vezes, a fim de investigar a relação entre moda e identidade, como esta aparece no discurso deles sobre o modo que se vestem. Os dados foram trabalhados por meio de análise de conteúdo de Bardin (2016), definida por Moraes (1999) como “uma metodologia de pesquisa usada para descrever e interpretar o conteúdo de toda classe de documentos e textos”. Com base na fundamentação teórica, foram criadas as categorias posicionamento social, auto-expressão, valores/ideiais e gênero e sexualidade, articulando os resultados à reflexão central sobre moda e identidade no mundo contemporâneo. Percebeu-se que a noção de identidade não se limita apenas ao vestuário, mas ao próprio discurso apresentado pelos membros do grupo, que faziam uso de termos específicos da área da moda, estabelecendo uma espécie de conexão entre tais membros, apesar das distinções identitárias apontadas por eles mesmos. Por se tratar de grupo focal realizado com jovens detentores de algum conhecimento prévio sobre moda, foi possível perceber, também, reflexões sobre o uso da moda numa relação ambivalente, caracterizada pela busca de pertencimento em grupos específicos e pela diferenciação do sujeito, como forma de se posicionar político e socialmente. Na discussão, foram apresentados os aspectos transferenciais e contratransferenciais, desde a escolha do objeto de estudo, à composição do grupo e até mesmo em relação ao procedimento e ao andamento da pesquisa, bem como a minha participação enquanto pesquisadora.São Cristóvão, SEporModaPsicologiaIdentidadeModernidadePós-modernidadeFashionPsychologyIdentityModernityPostmodernityCIENCIAS HUMANAS::PSICOLOGIAModa como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesisPós-Graduação em PsicologiaUniversidade Federal de Sergipereponame:Repositório Institucional da UFSinstname:Universidade Federal de Sergipe (UFS)instacron:UFSinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessTEXTLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.txtLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.txtExtracted texttext/plain174633https://ri.ufs.br/jspui/bitstream/riufs/9290/3/LARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.txt12449bc4d9263f1f7533a41dfd3067e8MD53THUMBNAILLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.jpgLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.jpgGenerated Thumbnailimage/jpeg1283https://ri.ufs.br/jspui/bitstream/riufs/9290/4/LARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf.jpg3f6ec8246bfc0d667664b92152333760MD54LICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; charset=utf-81475https://ri.ufs.br/jspui/bitstream/riufs/9290/1/license.txt098cbbf65c2c15e1fb2e49c5d306a44cMD51ORIGINALLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdfLARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdfapplication/pdf1015609https://ri.ufs.br/jspui/bitstream/riufs/9290/2/LARISSA_LEAL_MOURA.pdf590927d89ae15b7b9c2d42d848afbb69MD52riufs/92902018-10-18 16:54:42.482oai:ufs.br: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Repositório InstitucionalPUBhttps://ri.ufs.br/oai/requestrepositorio@academico.ufs.bropendoar:2018-10-18T19:54:42Repositório Institucional da UFS - Universidade Federal de Sergipe (UFS)false
dc.title.pt_BR.fl_str_mv Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
title Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
spellingShingle Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
Moura, Larissa Leal
Moda
Psicologia
Identidade
Modernidade
Pós-modernidade
Fashion
Psychology
Identity
Modernity
Postmodernity
CIENCIAS HUMANAS::PSICOLOGIA
title_short Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
title_full Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
title_fullStr Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
title_full_unstemmed Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
title_sort Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo
author Moura, Larissa Leal
author_facet Moura, Larissa Leal
author_role author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Moura, Larissa Leal
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv Cunha, Eduardo Leal
contributor_str_mv Cunha, Eduardo Leal
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Moda
Psicologia
Identidade
Modernidade
Pós-modernidade
Fashion
Psychology
Identity
Modernity
Postmodernity
topic Moda
Psicologia
Identidade
Modernidade
Pós-modernidade
Fashion
Psychology
Identity
Modernity
Postmodernity
CIENCIAS HUMANAS::PSICOLOGIA
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv CIENCIAS HUMANAS::PSICOLOGIA
description Fashion emerged in the West in the Renaissance, where it played the role of social distinction, since the clothes were not accessible to all classes and, consequently, by the way it was dressed, it was possible to identify which social layer that subject belonged to. According to Lipovetsky (2009), what defines the fashion system is the conjunction of the logics of the ephemeral and aesthetic fantasy, which only found space in modern societies. Anthony Giddens (1991) asserts that the modern era differs from others, especially because of its high dynamism, such a rapid pace of social change has never been seen in other times as it does in modernity. In addition, the breadth and depth of social change is much greater, affecting social practices and modes of behavior, so-called "late modernity" is the present moment, the most marked phase of its characteristics. In Psychology, fashion plays a significant role in identity, acting between the individual and society, because through clothing it is possible to express and communicate and, in many cases, it functions as a symbol of belonging. When we think of fashion as an expression of identity in the contemporary world, the notion of identity adopted was that of the postmodern subject of Stuart Hall (2006), who considers it fragmented, multiple, contradictory, breaking with the vision of identity of traditional societies. In the light of this, a bibliographical review of articles on this topic in Psychology in Portuguese, in the last ten years (2007-2017), on the SciELO website (Scientific Electronic Library Online) and on the electronic journals of the PePSIC, with the objective of ascertaining what has been produced on this subject. In the subsequent stage, an exploratory study was conducted through a focus group with six young people aged 19 to 24, conducted twice, in order to investigate the relationship between fashion and identity, as this appears in their discourse about the way they dress. The data were elaborated through Bardin's (2016) content analysis, defined by Moraes (1999) as "a research methodology used to describe and interpret the content of every class of documents and texts." Based on the theoretical foundation, the categories were created social positioning, self-expression, values/ideals and gender and sexuality, articulating the results to the central reflection on fashion and identity in the contemporary world. It was noticed that the notion of identity is not limited only to the clothing, but to the own speech presented by the members of the group, who made use of specific terms of the fashion area, establishing a kind of connection between such members, despite the identified identity distinctions for themselves. Because it is a focal group carried out with young people with some previous knowledge about fashion, it was possible to perceive, also, reflections on the use of fashion in an ambivalent relationship, characterized by the search for belonging in specific groups and by the differentiation of the subject, as a form of to position itself politically and socially. In the discussion, transferential and countertransferential aspects were presented, from the choice of study object, to the composition of the group and even in relation to the procedure and progress of the research, as well as my participation as a researcher.
publishDate 2018
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv 2018-10-18T19:52:41Z
dc.date.available.fl_str_mv 2018-10-18T19:52:41Z
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv 2018-07-19
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dc.identifier.citation.fl_str_mv MOURA, Larissa Leal. Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo. 2018. 97 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Psicologia Social) - Universidade Federal de Sergipe, São Cristóvão, SE, 2018.
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://ri.ufs.br/jspui/handle/riufs/9290
identifier_str_mv MOURA, Larissa Leal. Moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo. 2018. 97 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Psicologia Social) - Universidade Federal de Sergipe, São Cristóvão, SE, 2018.
url http://ri.ufs.br/jspui/handle/riufs/9290
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