Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation
Autor(a) principal: | |
---|---|
Data de Publicação: | 2012 |
Outros Autores: | , , , , , , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/11227 |
Resumo: | In the framework of a research project entitled "BRISA-BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport", a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7 m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions. |
id |
RCAP_aed8fd424d002cd3e5cd1c0eb44f01b8 |
---|---|
oai_identifier_str |
oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/11227 |
network_acronym_str |
RCAP |
network_name_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository_id_str |
|
spelling |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformationDynamicsIn the framework of a research project entitled "BRISA-BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport", a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7 m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions.Science and Technology Foundation of the Ministry of Science, Technology and Higher Education, Portugal [SFRH/BPD/20508/2004]SpringerSapientiaFortes, Conceicao JuanaFerreira, OscarSilva, Paulo A.Moura, TheoCapitao, RuiAmante, LuisVousdoukas, MichalisBezerra, Maria2018-12-07T14:52:49Z2012-122012-12-01T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/11227eng1400-035010.1007/s11852-012-0187-2info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2023-07-24T10:22:59ZPortal AgregadorONG |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
title |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
spellingShingle |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation Fortes, Conceicao Juana Dynamics |
title_short |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
title_full |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
title_fullStr |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
title_full_unstemmed |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
title_sort |
Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation |
author |
Fortes, Conceicao Juana |
author_facet |
Fortes, Conceicao Juana Ferreira, Oscar Silva, Paulo A. Moura, Theo Capitao, Rui Amante, Luis Vousdoukas, Michalis Bezerra, Maria |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Ferreira, Oscar Silva, Paulo A. Moura, Theo Capitao, Rui Amante, Luis Vousdoukas, Michalis Bezerra, Maria |
author2_role |
author author author author author author author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Sapientia |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Fortes, Conceicao Juana Ferreira, Oscar Silva, Paulo A. Moura, Theo Capitao, Rui Amante, Luis Vousdoukas, Michalis Bezerra, Maria |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Dynamics |
topic |
Dynamics |
description |
In the framework of a research project entitled "BRISA-BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport", a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7 m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions. |
publishDate |
2012 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2012-12 2012-12-01T00:00:00Z 2018-12-07T14:52:49Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/11227 |
url |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/11227 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
1400-0350 10.1007/s11852-012-0187-2 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Springer |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Springer |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
instname_str |
Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
|
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
|
_version_ |
1777303907798614016 |