Cultural biography of a shirt: the dressed memory of Antoninha Berchon Sampaio

• Autor(a) principal: Schneid, Frantieska Huszar
• Data de Publicação: 2019
• Outros Autores: Scholl, Raphael Castanheira
• Tipo de documento: Artigo
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Revista dObra[s]
• Texto Completo: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/921
• topic: Clothing collection. Dressed memory. Material culture.; Acervo de vestuário. Memória trajada. Cultura material.

This paper aims to highlight a piece of the clothing collection which belonged to Mrs. Antonia Berchon Sampaio, a relevant figure in the elite society of Rio Grande do Sul. The collection in question is composed of pieces of clothing that made up the personal wardrobe of Mrs. Berchon. This piece and all the others that composed the collection served as a contribution to the “Dressed Memory” project, which had the purpose of researching costume as a cultural object based on the contributions of Prown (1982), Andrade (2006; 2008), and Gies (2008). The overall objective of the study was to investigate a shirt which belonged to Antoninha Berchon, addressing issues related to personal files (ARTIÈRES, 1998; BELLOTO, 2006; VIDAL, 2007; CUNHA, 2008), and linking these with fashion and its connections with memory and material culture. The choice of this research is justified since it is possible to understand the various methodological possibilities of clothing as a cultural artifact and the circulation of the costume through different subjects in their bodies, images, and spaces. The methodology used in this research was based on the study of Andrade (2006; 2008) on textile artifacts but adapted to the analyzed acquis. The objective was to build an interdisciplinary tessitura, intertwining several fields of knowledge; these are fundamental to understand the messages spoken by the artifacts. Therefore, it is possible to reassure the importance of the relationship of clothing as an object that carries and narrates memories.