Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2023 |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Revista dObra[s] |
Texto Completo: | https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1595 |
Resumo: | Since the beginning of the trade between Japan and the West in 1853, the kimono and other oriental garments flooded the Western market. Designers started incorporating the kimono and its elements into their design, therefore, bringing newness to the kind of static decade of Western fashion. There were two different approaches fashion designers used toward exotic garments: some would see just costumes and others would try to preserve the original work. This paper intends to analyze the work of the British designer Alexander McQueen who belongs to the second group, in other words, designers who created modern garments while still trying to keep the traditional aspects of the culture from which they borrowed. An example of the second approach would be McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collection with which he also challenged the concept of beauty. Nature plays an integral part in this collection, but also worth mentioning are the elements of the East, especially Japan. McQueen was one of these designers who did borrow the elements of the countries of the Orient while also preserving the original craftsmanship. When it comes to Japan, in particular, McQueen used Japanese screens with embroidered panels for the creation of the dress. Interestingly, the original Japanese design and craftsmanship were preserved but transformed into something nostalgic and also new. |
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Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectioAlexander McQueen olhando para o Oriente – influência do kimono japonês no Ocidente e elementos orientalistas na coleção “Voss” de McQueen (Primavera/Verão 2001)Alexander McQueenFashionKimonoOrientalismNatureAlexander McQueenModaKimonoOrientalismoNaturezaSince the beginning of the trade between Japan and the West in 1853, the kimono and other oriental garments flooded the Western market. Designers started incorporating the kimono and its elements into their design, therefore, bringing newness to the kind of static decade of Western fashion. There were two different approaches fashion designers used toward exotic garments: some would see just costumes and others would try to preserve the original work. This paper intends to analyze the work of the British designer Alexander McQueen who belongs to the second group, in other words, designers who created modern garments while still trying to keep the traditional aspects of the culture from which they borrowed. An example of the second approach would be McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collection with which he also challenged the concept of beauty. Nature plays an integral part in this collection, but also worth mentioning are the elements of the East, especially Japan. McQueen was one of these designers who did borrow the elements of the countries of the Orient while also preserving the original craftsmanship. When it comes to Japan, in particular, McQueen used Japanese screens with embroidered panels for the creation of the dress. Interestingly, the original Japanese design and craftsmanship were preserved but transformed into something nostalgic and also new.Desde o começo das trocas entre o Japão e o Ocidente em 1853, o kimono e outras peças orientais inundaram o mercado ocidental. Designers começaram a incorporar o kimono e seus elementos em seus designs, além disso, trazendo novidades para décadas de certa forma estáticas na moda ocidental. Há duas abordagens que os designers de moda costumam usar em relação às peças exóticas: alguns vêem apenas trajes, enquanto outros tentam preservar o trabalho original. Esse artigo objetiva analisar o trabalho do designer britânico Alexander McQueen, o qual pertence ao segundo tipo de abordagem. Em outras palavras, designers que criaram peças modernas, ao mesmo tempo em que tentaram manter aspectos tradicionais da cultura na qual se inspiram. Um exemplo dessa abordagem é a coleção “Voss” de McQueen (primavera/verão 2001), na qual ele também desafiou o conceito de beleza. A natureza desempenha uma parte integral dessa coleção mas, além disso, vale mencionar os elementos oriundos do Oriente, especialmente do Japão. McQueen foi um desses designers que tomavam emprestados elementos de países orientais, mas preservando o trabalho manual original. Sobre o Japão, em particular, McQueen usou telas japonesas com painéis bordados para a criação dos trajes. De maneira interessante, o design e o trabalho manual japonês original foram preservados, porém transformados em algo nostálgico e também novo.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2023-08-01info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/159510.26563/dobras.i38.1595dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 38 (2023); 82-942358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMenghttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1595/806Copyright (c) 2023 Andjela Bisevachttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessBisevac, Andjela2023-11-20T20:20:37Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1595Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2023-11-20T20:20:37Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio Alexander McQueen olhando para o Oriente – influência do kimono japonês no Ocidente e elementos orientalistas na coleção “Voss” de McQueen (Primavera/Verão 2001) |
title |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
spellingShingle |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio Bisevac, Andjela Alexander McQueen Fashion Kimono Orientalism Nature Alexander McQueen Moda Kimono Orientalismo Natureza |
title_short |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
title_full |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
title_fullStr |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
title_full_unstemmed |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
title_sort |
Alexander McQueen looking at the East – Influence of Japanese kimono on the West and Orientalist elements in McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collectio |
author |
Bisevac, Andjela |
author_facet |
Bisevac, Andjela |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Bisevac, Andjela |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Alexander McQueen Fashion Kimono Orientalism Nature Alexander McQueen Moda Kimono Orientalismo Natureza |
topic |
Alexander McQueen Fashion Kimono Orientalism Nature Alexander McQueen Moda Kimono Orientalismo Natureza |
description |
Since the beginning of the trade between Japan and the West in 1853, the kimono and other oriental garments flooded the Western market. Designers started incorporating the kimono and its elements into their design, therefore, bringing newness to the kind of static decade of Western fashion. There were two different approaches fashion designers used toward exotic garments: some would see just costumes and others would try to preserve the original work. This paper intends to analyze the work of the British designer Alexander McQueen who belongs to the second group, in other words, designers who created modern garments while still trying to keep the traditional aspects of the culture from which they borrowed. An example of the second approach would be McQueen’s (Spring/Summer 2001) “Voss” collection with which he also challenged the concept of beauty. Nature plays an integral part in this collection, but also worth mentioning are the elements of the East, especially Japan. McQueen was one of these designers who did borrow the elements of the countries of the Orient while also preserving the original craftsmanship. When it comes to Japan, in particular, McQueen used Japanese screens with embroidered panels for the creation of the dress. Interestingly, the original Japanese design and craftsmanship were preserved but transformed into something nostalgic and also new. |
publishDate |
2023 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2023-08-01 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1595 10.26563/dobras.i38.1595 |
url |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1595 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.26563/dobras.i38.1595 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1595/806 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2023 Andjela Bisevac https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2023 Andjela Bisevac https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 38 (2023); 82-94 2358-0003 1982-0313 reponame:Revista dObra[s] instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) instacron:ABEPEM |
instname_str |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
instacron_str |
ABEPEM |
institution |
ABEPEM |
reponame_str |
Revista dObra[s] |
collection |
Revista dObra[s] |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
dobras.abepem@gmail.com |
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1797054038974398464 |