O design de calças femininas: Rio de Janeiro e São Paulo no início do século XX

• Autor(a) principal: EPAMINONDAS, Natalia Rosa
• Data de Publicação: 2014
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações do ANHEMBI
• Texto Completo: http://sitios.anhembi.br/tedesimplificado/handle/TEDE/1628
• topic: Design gráfico; Trajes - História; Calça - História; História da moda; Indumentária - História; LINGUISTICA, LETRAS E ARTES

This research focuses on a design object, the harem pants, worn during the 1910’s at the great urban centers Rio Janeiro and São Paulo, by women from the middle and upper classes. A reflection is made about the developments in the social context and the reactions this object incited in society. The reverberations in the decade’s periodicals, specifically magazines and newspapers from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. This research explorers the impact this object caused in the period’s commerce, and how this piece was presented in the fashion ateliers, despite the adverse reactions to the use and to the changes in women’s silhouette. The way these women changed their way of dressing is discussed, in response to the changes in the public spaces, influenced by modernization and by the sports and leisure activities that emerged during the beginning of 20th century, emphasizing the increase on Brazilian women’s movements. Using images from the documental material, that shows more resources about women from Rio de Janeiro, it is reconstructed a cutting diagram for a pair of harem pants, in order to understand the design and the possibilities of movement for the body that that design could offer.