Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2009 |
Tipo de documento: | Dissertação |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SP |
Texto Completo: | https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/5244 |
Resumo: | This dissertation refers the research, which covers the areas of discursive semiotics, communication and fashion, having as its universe the set of Alceu Penna s fashion plates, in the magazines O Cruzeiro, within the column Figurinos, in the 1950 s decade. The corpus of this research was built out of this set of images, enabling the construction of the social practices visibility issue, referring to a certain female simulacrum and type of women, inserted in the image universe of the magazine. Thus, the research revolves around the questions: What kind of Brazilian woman simulacrum Alceu Penna proposed through O Cruzeiro magazine? How did he construct this simulacrum in the fashion drawings in the magazine? This way, the research seeks to identify and analyze the fashion images proposed by the designer as its general goal. Such images signal female features that will anchor the construction of a Brazilian woman simulacrum. For the specific goals the research seeks to achieve the following: 1) Present the female way(s) of dressing conveyed in Alceu Penna s column called Figurinos; 2) Contribute for the identification of the Brazilian woman in the 1950 s decade; 3) Verify existing conceptual relations between fashion, woman simulacrum and the culture industry represented in O Cruzeiro magazine, within the column Figurinos during that period; 4) Establish the logic in the relations between the expression categories (plastic formants) and the content categories (meaning generative course) in order to describe the type of semiosis existing between expression plan and content plan; 5) Identify correlations between the fields of fashion, advertising and economics in the magazine; 6) Contribute to fashion studies. The methodological procedures compose a descriptive and interpretative method for the analysis of verbal and visual arrangements of the text, named syncretic, which copes with the identification of mechanisms that structure internally the text in relation to the sociohistorical context. This way, the structural complexity of the text was understood, in which the relations and semiosis are produced as a whole of meaning, according to Algirdas Julien Greimas theoretical framework. Also, the sociosemiotics developed by Eric Landowski was used, highlighting the concepts of simulacrum, presence as a sense system, correlated to interaction and visibility systems. The analysis of the visual aspect of fashion plates in the column was grounded on Jean-Marie Floch s plastic and syncretic semiotics approaches. As for the visuality aspect of fashion Ana Claudia de Oliveira s statements were used, which relate it to appearance discourses. Having this accession, the semiotic analysis tested the hypothesis that Alceu Penna s fashion plates shape a slim, thin female body, with marked waist and gestures that show sometimes a relaxed, moved posture in its internal world and sometimes a formal, static and conservative one in a social environment. It was apprehended in these drawings the construction of a family woman simulacrum, who is within a dependence relation with the masculine, and a Brazilian woman simulacrum, who follows the international fashion trends and shows herself to others, besides the adoption of Brazilian culture stereotypes, in order to reveal her insertion and sense of belonging to the elites context. The drawings correlate to the advertising discourses of the magazine, that promote an economic model of consumption of goods produced by the implanted industry in the country, linked a model Brazilian social of a modern way of life, where the masculine and the feminine have support with French and New Yorker fashion matrixes |
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Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves dehttp://buscatextual.cnpq.br/buscatextual/visualizacv.do?id=K4759920J6Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz2016-04-26T18:18:09Z2009-10-092009-09-23Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz. Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda. 2009. 136 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação) - Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2009.https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/5244This dissertation refers the research, which covers the areas of discursive semiotics, communication and fashion, having as its universe the set of Alceu Penna s fashion plates, in the magazines O Cruzeiro, within the column Figurinos, in the 1950 s decade. The corpus of this research was built out of this set of images, enabling the construction of the social practices visibility issue, referring to a certain female simulacrum and type of women, inserted in the image universe of the magazine. Thus, the research revolves around the questions: What kind of Brazilian woman simulacrum Alceu Penna proposed through O Cruzeiro magazine? How did he construct this simulacrum in the fashion drawings in the magazine? This way, the research seeks to identify and analyze the fashion images proposed by the designer as its general goal. Such images signal female features that will anchor the construction of a Brazilian woman simulacrum. For the specific goals the research seeks to achieve the following: 1) Present the female way(s) of dressing conveyed in Alceu Penna s column called Figurinos; 2) Contribute for the identification of the Brazilian woman in the 1950 s decade; 3) Verify existing conceptual relations between fashion, woman simulacrum and the culture industry represented in O Cruzeiro magazine, within the column Figurinos during that period; 4) Establish the logic in the relations between the expression categories (plastic formants) and the content categories (meaning generative course) in order to describe the type of semiosis existing between expression plan and content plan; 5) Identify correlations between the fields of fashion, advertising and economics in the magazine; 6) Contribute to fashion studies. The methodological procedures compose a descriptive and interpretative method for the analysis of verbal and visual arrangements of the text, named syncretic, which copes with the identification of mechanisms that structure internally the text in relation to the sociohistorical context. This way, the structural complexity of the text was understood, in which the relations and semiosis are produced as a whole of meaning, according to Algirdas Julien Greimas theoretical framework. Also, the sociosemiotics developed by Eric Landowski was used, highlighting the concepts of simulacrum, presence as a sense system, correlated to interaction and visibility systems. The analysis of the visual aspect of fashion plates in the column was grounded on Jean-Marie Floch s plastic and syncretic semiotics approaches. As for the visuality aspect of fashion Ana Claudia de Oliveira s statements were used, which relate it to appearance discourses. Having this accession, the semiotic analysis tested the hypothesis that Alceu Penna s fashion plates shape a slim, thin female body, with marked waist and gestures that show sometimes a relaxed, moved posture in its internal world and sometimes a formal, static and conservative one in a social environment. It was apprehended in these drawings the construction of a family woman simulacrum, who is within a dependence relation with the masculine, and a Brazilian woman simulacrum, who follows the international fashion trends and shows herself to others, besides the adoption of Brazilian culture stereotypes, in order to reveal her insertion and sense of belonging to the elites context. The drawings correlate to the advertising discourses of the magazine, that promote an economic model of consumption of goods produced by the implanted industry in the country, linked a model Brazilian social of a modern way of life, where the masculine and the feminine have support with French and New Yorker fashion matrixesEsta dissertação refere-se à pesquisa que abrange as áreas da semiótica discursiva, comunicação e moda, tendo como universo o conjunto de imagens de moda dos figurinos de Alceu Penna inserido na coluna Figurinos da revista O Cruzeiro, da década de 1950. Deste conjunto foi extraído o corpus de pesquisa, possibilitando estudar a visibilidade das práticas sociais referentes a determinado simulacro feminino e tipo de mulher inscrito no universo imagético da revista. Sendo assim, a pesquisa gira em torno das seguintes questões: Que simulacro de mulher brasileira Alceu Penna propôs por meio da revista O Cruzeiro? Como ele construiu este simulacro nos desenhos de figurinos de moda da revista? Desta forma busca-se, como objetivo geral, identificar e analisar as imagens de moda propostas pelo figurinista que assinalam modos de presença feminina que perseguem a construção de um simulacro de mulher brasileira. Na seqüência da investigação, busca-se alcançar os seguintes objetivos específicos: 1) Apresentar o(s) modo(s) de vestir feminino(s) veiculado(s) na coluna Figurinos de Alceu Penna; 2) contribuir para identificação da mulher brasileira dos anos de 1950; 3) verificar as relações conceituais existentes entre moda, simulacro de mulher e indústria cultural representadas pela revista O Cruzeiro, que está inscrita na coluna Figurinos no período determinado; 4) estabelecer a lógica das relações existentes entre as categorias da expressão (formantes plásticos) e as categorias do conteúdo (percurso gerativo do sentido) para descrever o tipo de semiose entre plano da expressão e plano do conteúdo; 5) identificar as correlações entre seção de moda, publicidade e economia na revista; 6) contribuir para os estudos da moda. Os procedimentos metodológicos adotados configuram um método descritivo e interpretativo para a análise do arranjo visual e verbal do texto, denominado sincrético e esses dão conta da identificação dos mecanismos que estruturam internamente o texto em relação ao contexto sóciohistórico. Desta forma compreendeu-se a complexidade estrutural do texto no qual relações e semioses são produzidas em um todo de sentido segundo o referencial teórico de Algirdas Julien Greimas. Empregou-se ainda a sociossemiótica desenvolvida por Eric Landowski destacando os conceitos de simulacro e de presença, como regimes de sentido, correlatos aos regimes de interação e de visibilidade. Para analisar o aspecto mais visual do figurino na coluna, o embasamento foi a semiótica plástica e a sincrética nos desenvolvimentos de Jean-Marie Floch. E na abordagem da visualidade da moda, seguiu-se Ana Claudia de Oliveira que a relaciona a discursos da aparência. Com este aporte a análise semiótica testou as hipóteses de que os desenhos dos figurinos de Alceu Penna configuram um corpo feminino esguio, magro, com cintura demarcada, com quadril em evidência enquanto a gestualidade mostra uma postura ora descontraída e movente no interno do seu mundo, ora formal, estática e conservadora no social. Nestes desenhos depreendeu-se a construção de um simulacro de mulher da família, que está em relação de dependência com o masculino, e de um simulacro de mulher brasileira que segue a moda internacional e se mostra para o outro, através da adoção dos estereótipos da cultura brasileira, para revelar sua inserção e pertencimento no contexto das elites. Os desenhos se relacionam aos discursos publicitários da revista que promovem um modelo econômico de consumo de bens produzidos pela indústria implantada no país, aliado ao modelo social brasileiro de vida moderna, onde o masculino e o feminino se apoiam nas matrizes da moda francesa e nova iorquinaCoordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superiorapplication/pdfhttp://tede2.pucsp.br/tede/retrieve/14112/Rosane%20Schmitz%20Fernandes.pdf.jpgporPontifícia Universidade Católica de São PauloPrograma de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e SemióticaPUC-SPBRComunicaçãoFigurino de Alceu PennaSimulacro de mulher brasileiraSemiótica plásticaSóciossemióticaPenna, Alceu -- 1915-1980 -- Critica e interpretacaoO Cruzeiro (Revista)Moda -- BrasilMulheres na comunicacao de massa -- BrasilSemiotica -- Aspectos sociaisO Cruzeiro magazineFashionAlceu Penna s fashion platesBrazilian woman simulacrumPlastic semioticsSociosemioticsCNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAORevista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de modainfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesisinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SPinstname:Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo (PUC-SP)instacron:PUC_SPTEXTRosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdf.txtRosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdf.txtExtracted texttext/plain258018https://repositorio.pucsp.br/xmlui/bitstream/handle/5244/3/Rosane%20Schmitz%20Fernandes.pdf.txt8f86fc212cdaae6d6f516735c20f329fMD53ORIGINALRosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdfapplication/pdf17055070https://repositorio.pucsp.br/xmlui/bitstream/handle/5244/1/Rosane%20Schmitz%20Fernandes.pdffe4b744f138755e7017fdf03cce8d276MD51THUMBNAILRosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdf.jpgRosane Schmitz Fernandes.pdf.jpgGenerated Thumbnailimage/jpeg1943https://repositorio.pucsp.br/xmlui/bitstream/handle/5244/2/Rosane%20Schmitz%20Fernandes.pdf.jpgcc73c4c239a4c332d642ba1e7c7a9fb2MD52handle/52442022-04-27 18:37:14.869oai:repositorio.pucsp.br:handle/5244Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertaçõeshttps://sapientia.pucsp.br/https://sapientia.pucsp.br/oai/requestbngkatende@pucsp.br||rapassi@pucsp.bropendoar:2022-04-27T21:37:14Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SP - Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo (PUC-SP)false |
dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
title |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
spellingShingle |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz Figurino de Alceu Penna Simulacro de mulher brasileira Semiótica plástica Sóciossemiótica Penna, Alceu -- 1915-1980 -- Critica e interpretacao O Cruzeiro (Revista) Moda -- Brasil Mulheres na comunicacao de massa -- Brasil Semiotica -- Aspectos sociais O Cruzeiro magazine Fashion Alceu Penna s fashion plates Brazilian woman simulacrum Plastic semiotics Sociosemiotics CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
title_short |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
title_full |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
title_fullStr |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
title_full_unstemmed |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
title_sort |
Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda |
author |
Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz |
author_facet |
Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de |
dc.contributor.authorLattes.fl_str_mv |
http://buscatextual.cnpq.br/buscatextual/visualizacv.do?id=K4759920J6 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz |
contributor_str_mv |
Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Figurino de Alceu Penna Simulacro de mulher brasileira Semiótica plástica Sóciossemiótica Penna, Alceu -- 1915-1980 -- Critica e interpretacao O Cruzeiro (Revista) Moda -- Brasil Mulheres na comunicacao de massa -- Brasil Semiotica -- Aspectos sociais |
topic |
Figurino de Alceu Penna Simulacro de mulher brasileira Semiótica plástica Sóciossemiótica Penna, Alceu -- 1915-1980 -- Critica e interpretacao O Cruzeiro (Revista) Moda -- Brasil Mulheres na comunicacao de massa -- Brasil Semiotica -- Aspectos sociais O Cruzeiro magazine Fashion Alceu Penna s fashion plates Brazilian woman simulacrum Plastic semiotics Sociosemiotics CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
dc.subject.eng.fl_str_mv |
O Cruzeiro magazine Fashion Alceu Penna s fashion plates Brazilian woman simulacrum Plastic semiotics Sociosemiotics |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
description |
This dissertation refers the research, which covers the areas of discursive semiotics, communication and fashion, having as its universe the set of Alceu Penna s fashion plates, in the magazines O Cruzeiro, within the column Figurinos, in the 1950 s decade. The corpus of this research was built out of this set of images, enabling the construction of the social practices visibility issue, referring to a certain female simulacrum and type of women, inserted in the image universe of the magazine. Thus, the research revolves around the questions: What kind of Brazilian woman simulacrum Alceu Penna proposed through O Cruzeiro magazine? How did he construct this simulacrum in the fashion drawings in the magazine? This way, the research seeks to identify and analyze the fashion images proposed by the designer as its general goal. Such images signal female features that will anchor the construction of a Brazilian woman simulacrum. For the specific goals the research seeks to achieve the following: 1) Present the female way(s) of dressing conveyed in Alceu Penna s column called Figurinos; 2) Contribute for the identification of the Brazilian woman in the 1950 s decade; 3) Verify existing conceptual relations between fashion, woman simulacrum and the culture industry represented in O Cruzeiro magazine, within the column Figurinos during that period; 4) Establish the logic in the relations between the expression categories (plastic formants) and the content categories (meaning generative course) in order to describe the type of semiosis existing between expression plan and content plan; 5) Identify correlations between the fields of fashion, advertising and economics in the magazine; 6) Contribute to fashion studies. The methodological procedures compose a descriptive and interpretative method for the analysis of verbal and visual arrangements of the text, named syncretic, which copes with the identification of mechanisms that structure internally the text in relation to the sociohistorical context. This way, the structural complexity of the text was understood, in which the relations and semiosis are produced as a whole of meaning, according to Algirdas Julien Greimas theoretical framework. Also, the sociosemiotics developed by Eric Landowski was used, highlighting the concepts of simulacrum, presence as a sense system, correlated to interaction and visibility systems. The analysis of the visual aspect of fashion plates in the column was grounded on Jean-Marie Floch s plastic and syncretic semiotics approaches. As for the visuality aspect of fashion Ana Claudia de Oliveira s statements were used, which relate it to appearance discourses. Having this accession, the semiotic analysis tested the hypothesis that Alceu Penna s fashion plates shape a slim, thin female body, with marked waist and gestures that show sometimes a relaxed, moved posture in its internal world and sometimes a formal, static and conservative one in a social environment. It was apprehended in these drawings the construction of a family woman simulacrum, who is within a dependence relation with the masculine, and a Brazilian woman simulacrum, who follows the international fashion trends and shows herself to others, besides the adoption of Brazilian culture stereotypes, in order to reveal her insertion and sense of belonging to the elites context. The drawings correlate to the advertising discourses of the magazine, that promote an economic model of consumption of goods produced by the implanted industry in the country, linked a model Brazilian social of a modern way of life, where the masculine and the feminine have support with French and New Yorker fashion matrixes |
publishDate |
2009 |
dc.date.available.fl_str_mv |
2009-10-09 |
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv |
2009-09-23 |
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv |
2016-04-26T18:18:09Z |
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Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz. Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda. 2009. 136 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação) - Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2009. |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/5244 |
identifier_str_mv |
Fernandes, Rosane Schmitz. Revista O Cruzeiro: Alceu Penna e os figurinos de moda. 2009. 136 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação) - Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2009. |
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https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/5244 |
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por |
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Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo |
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Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica |
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PUC-SP |
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BR |
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Comunicação |
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Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo |
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