A aceleração dos ciclos da moda
Autor(a) principal: | |
---|---|
Data de Publicação: | 2016 |
Tipo de documento: | Dissertação |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SP |
Texto Completo: | https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/19110 |
Resumo: | This study focuses on the fashion transformations in contemporary times, and more specifically on the fashion cycles. In particular, it assess the hypothesis that the cycles are shortened to the extreme and are no longer closing, establishing a coexistence of styles. Based on the thought of Gilles Lipovetsky, this study also shows that the classical concept of fashion no longer covers all the settings that comprise the modern phenomenon. The choice of this author is due to the greater complexity of his ideas compared to previous theories, and in particular, because of his vision of fashion. This study also draws from the classic reflections of Walter Benjamin on the relationship between fashion and cultural industry in modernity, which is also based on the idea of transience. The concepts of "urban tribes" and “supermarket of style " by Ted Polhemus are also employed. The corpus of this work is embodied in seven panels composed by a selection of Vogue America covers along six decades, from 1950 to 2000. The magazine was chosen because it is a widely distributed vehicle both in the country of origin, the United States, center of contemporary fashion, as in the rest of the world, with regionalized versions, which are available on the Vogue Archive since its first edition in the year of 1892. The documentation provided by Vogue America enables the empirical identification of the main features of contemporary fashion and of its cycles. The methodology is bibliographical and documentary research |
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Motta, Leda Tenorio dahttp://buscatextual.cnpq.br/buscatextual/visualizacv.do?id=K4969752J1Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira2016-09-28T17:29:46Z2016-06-30Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira. A aceleração dos ciclos da moda. 2016. 106 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação e Semiótica) - Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica, Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2016.https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/19110This study focuses on the fashion transformations in contemporary times, and more specifically on the fashion cycles. In particular, it assess the hypothesis that the cycles are shortened to the extreme and are no longer closing, establishing a coexistence of styles. Based on the thought of Gilles Lipovetsky, this study also shows that the classical concept of fashion no longer covers all the settings that comprise the modern phenomenon. The choice of this author is due to the greater complexity of his ideas compared to previous theories, and in particular, because of his vision of fashion. This study also draws from the classic reflections of Walter Benjamin on the relationship between fashion and cultural industry in modernity, which is also based on the idea of transience. The concepts of "urban tribes" and “supermarket of style " by Ted Polhemus are also employed. The corpus of this work is embodied in seven panels composed by a selection of Vogue America covers along six decades, from 1950 to 2000. The magazine was chosen because it is a widely distributed vehicle both in the country of origin, the United States, center of contemporary fashion, as in the rest of the world, with regionalized versions, which are available on the Vogue Archive since its first edition in the year of 1892. The documentation provided by Vogue America enables the empirical identification of the main features of contemporary fashion and of its cycles. The methodology is bibliographical and documentary researchO presente estudo debruça-se sobre as transformações da moda na contemporaneidade, detendo-se sobre a questão específica de seus ciclos. Em particular, busca-se verificar a hipótese de que os ciclos se encurtaram ao extremo e já não mais se fecham, estabelecendo uma convivência de estilos. Nesse sentido, e trabalhando principalmente à luz do pensamento de Gilles Lipovetsky, pretende-se mostrar ainda que o conceito clássico de moda já não abarca todas as definições que o fenômeno moderno compreende. A escolha deste autor liga-se à maior complexidade de suas teses em relação àquelas de teóricos anteriores e, notadamente, a sua visão do “efêmero”, tanto mais que é suscetível de ser referida às clássicas reflexões de Walter Benjamin sobre as relações entre moda e indústria cultural na modernidade, também centradas na ideia de efemeridade. Por oportuno, invocamos ainda os conceitos de “tribos urbanas” e de “supermercado de estilos” de Ted Polhemus. O corpus do trabalho materializa-se em sete painéis compostos por uma seleção de capas de Vogue America que recobrem seis décadas, num lapso de tempo que vai de 1950 a 2000. A revista foi escolhida por ser um veículo de ampla distribuição tanto no país de origem, Estados Unidos, o centro nervoso da moda contemporânea, quanto no restante do mundo, com versões regionalizadas, além de oferecer, através do Vogue Archive, todas as edições da revista digitalizadas desde seu lançamento em 1892. A documentação oferecida pela Vogue America possibilita a identificação das características que a moda contemporânea apresenta e sua relação com os ciclos, oferecendo resultados empíricos para a aferição dos mesmos. A metodologia adotada é a pesquisa bibliográfica e documentalCoordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível SuperiorConselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológicoapplication/pdfhttp://tede2.pucsp.br/tede/retrieve/39795/Maria%20Augusta%20da%20Silveira%20Mitre.pdf.jpgporPontifícia Universidade Católica de São PauloPrograma de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e SemióticaPUC-SPBrasilFaculdade de Filosofia, Comunicação, Letras e ArtesModaCiclos da ModaEfêmeroFashionFashion CyclesEphemeralCNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAOA aceleração dos ciclos da modainfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesisinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SPinstname:Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo (PUC-SP)instacron:PUC_SPTEXTMaria Augusta da Silveira Mitre.pdf.txtMaria Augusta da Silveira Mitre.pdf.txtExtracted texttext/plain228997https://repositorio.pucsp.br/xmlui/bitstream/handle/19110/4/Maria%20Augusta%20da%20Silveira%20Mitre.pdf.txt4e798ed205e6e6197216f322325482a5MD54LICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; 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dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
title |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
spellingShingle |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira Moda Ciclos da Moda Efêmero Fashion Fashion Cycles Ephemeral CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
title_short |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
title_full |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
title_fullStr |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
title_full_unstemmed |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
title_sort |
A aceleração dos ciclos da moda |
author |
Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira |
author_facet |
Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
Motta, Leda Tenorio da |
dc.contributor.authorLattes.fl_str_mv |
http://buscatextual.cnpq.br/buscatextual/visualizacv.do?id=K4969752J1 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira |
contributor_str_mv |
Motta, Leda Tenorio da |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Moda Ciclos da Moda Efêmero |
topic |
Moda Ciclos da Moda Efêmero Fashion Fashion Cycles Ephemeral CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
dc.subject.eng.fl_str_mv |
Fashion Fashion Cycles Ephemeral |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO |
description |
This study focuses on the fashion transformations in contemporary times, and more specifically on the fashion cycles. In particular, it assess the hypothesis that the cycles are shortened to the extreme and are no longer closing, establishing a coexistence of styles. Based on the thought of Gilles Lipovetsky, this study also shows that the classical concept of fashion no longer covers all the settings that comprise the modern phenomenon. The choice of this author is due to the greater complexity of his ideas compared to previous theories, and in particular, because of his vision of fashion. This study also draws from the classic reflections of Walter Benjamin on the relationship between fashion and cultural industry in modernity, which is also based on the idea of transience. The concepts of "urban tribes" and “supermarket of style " by Ted Polhemus are also employed. The corpus of this work is embodied in seven panels composed by a selection of Vogue America covers along six decades, from 1950 to 2000. The magazine was chosen because it is a widely distributed vehicle both in the country of origin, the United States, center of contemporary fashion, as in the rest of the world, with regionalized versions, which are available on the Vogue Archive since its first edition in the year of 1892. The documentation provided by Vogue America enables the empirical identification of the main features of contemporary fashion and of its cycles. The methodology is bibliographical and documentary research |
publishDate |
2016 |
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv |
2016-09-28T17:29:46Z |
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv |
2016-06-30 |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesis |
format |
masterThesis |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.citation.fl_str_mv |
Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira. A aceleração dos ciclos da moda. 2016. 106 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação e Semiótica) - Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica, Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2016. |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/19110 |
identifier_str_mv |
Mitre, Maria Augusta da Silveira. A aceleração dos ciclos da moda. 2016. 106 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Comunicação e Semiótica) - Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica, Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2016. |
url |
https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/19110 |
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Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo |
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Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica |
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PUC-SP |
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Brasil |
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Faculdade de Filosofia, Comunicação, Letras e Artes |
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Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo |
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