Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Tomás Ferreira, Joana
Data de Publicação: 2024
Outros Autores: De Vrieze, Sander, van der Velde, Eline, Verkens, Kim, França de Sá, Susana
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
DOI: 10.14568/cp34830
Texto Completo: https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830
Resumo: Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.
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spelling Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopyPara além da superfície: um estudo sobre a estratigrafia de tecidos com revestimentos sintéticos em coleções de moda e amostras comerciais através de microscopia óticaArticlesSynthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.Os tecidos revestidos, frequentemente compostos por revestimentos efémeros, como o poli(cloreto de vinilo) plastificado (p-PVC) e o poliuretano termoplástico (TPU), são materiais de difícil preservação. Estes materiais são ainda pouco estudados na área da conservação, existindo uma lacuna de investigação e soluções para a sua preservação. Este estudo visa demonstrar a variabilidade dos tecidos revestidos com p-PVC e TPU em coleções de moda. As diferenças subtis na construção e morfologia das camadas de um conjunto de materiais foram investigadas, para desvendar métodos de produção e melhor compreender danos causados por destacamento, nomeadamente peeling e flaking. Os materiais foram analisados por microscopia ótica, complementada por ATR-FTIR para identificação molecular. A ampla variabilidade destes tecidos é apresentada e sugerem-se relações entre morfologia, métodos de produção e danos por destacamento. A microscopia ótica provou ser uma ferramenta vantajosa neste estudo, permitido um avanço no conhecimento para decisões de conservação mais informadas.ARP - Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal2024-09-10info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articlehttps://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830eng2182-99421646-043XTomás Ferreira, JoanaDe Vrieze, Sandervan der Velde, ElineVerkens, KimFrança de Sá, Susanainfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-10-01T02:30:37Zoai:ojs.revistas.rcaap.pt:article/34830Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openairemluisa.alvim@gmail.comopendoar:71602024-10-01T02:30:37Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
Para além da superfície: um estudo sobre a estratigrafia de tecidos com revestimentos sintéticos em coleções de moda e amostras comerciais através de microscopia ótica
title Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
spellingShingle Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
Tomás Ferreira, Joana
Articles
Tomás Ferreira, Joana
Articles
title_short Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
title_full Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
title_fullStr Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
title_full_unstemmed Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
title_sort Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy
author Tomás Ferreira, Joana
author_facet Tomás Ferreira, Joana
Tomás Ferreira, Joana
De Vrieze, Sander
van der Velde, Eline
Verkens, Kim
França de Sá, Susana
De Vrieze, Sander
van der Velde, Eline
Verkens, Kim
França de Sá, Susana
author_role author
author2 De Vrieze, Sander
van der Velde, Eline
Verkens, Kim
França de Sá, Susana
author2_role author
author
author
author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Tomás Ferreira, Joana
De Vrieze, Sander
van der Velde, Eline
Verkens, Kim
França de Sá, Susana
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Articles
topic Articles
description Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.
publishDate 2024
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2024-09-10
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830
url https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv 2182-9942
1646-043X
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv ARP - Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal
publisher.none.fl_str_mv ARP - Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron:RCAAP
instname_str Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron_str RCAAP
institution RCAAP
reponame_str Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
collection Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
repository.mail.fl_str_mv mluisa.alvim@gmail.com
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dc.identifier.doi.none.fl_str_mv 10.14568/cp34830

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