Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Sharif, Samaneh
Data de Publicação: 2020
Outros Autores: Nabais, Paula, Melo, Maria J., Conceição Oliveira, M.
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
Texto Completo: http://hdl.handle.net/10362/100673
Resumo: UIDB/00749/2020 UIDP/00749/2020
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spelling Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central IranThe knowledge of master dyers revealed by HPLC-DAD and UHPLC-HRMS/MSConservationDye analysisFlavonoidsHPLCMass spectrometryPersian dyesSoft extraction methodsYellow colorsAnalytical ChemistryChemistry (miscellaneous)Molecular MedicinePharmaceutical ScienceDrug DiscoveryPhysical and Theoretical ChemistryOrganic ChemistryUIDB/00749/2020 UIDP/00749/2020This work provides new knowledge on natural yellows used in Iran. Seven biological sources were selected based on interviews with dye masters in Isfahan workshops (Iran). Delphinium semibarbatum, Eremostachys laevigata, Prangos ferulacea, Morus alba, Pistacia vera, Punica granatum, and Vitis vinifera are currently used in these workshops. Aiming to study the dye composition of wool samples dyed with the extracts of the selected biological sources and the changes induced by the dyeing procedures in the original chemical composition of the plant extract, raw materials and dyed wool (by us and in the workshops) were analyzed by HPLC–DAD and UHPLC–HRMS/MS. The main yellows for E. laevigata are luteolin-O-glycosides. In the other plant sources, the main chromophores are based on 3-O-glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin. In pistachio hulls, myricitin derivatives were detected and we propose their use as markers. Generally, the solutions extracted from the wool displayed a higher amount of more polar compounds, but also a higher amount of aglycones. Importantly, the chromatographic profiles of the samples we prepared compared well with 17th c. yellows in Persian carpets, and therefore can be considered highly characterized references for the study of Persian yellowThis work provides new knowledge on natural yellows used in Iran. Seven biological sources were selected based on interviews with dye masters in Isfahan workshops (Iran). Delphinium semibarbatum, Eremostachys laevigata, Prangos ferulacea, Morus alba, Pistacia vera, Punica granatum, and Vitis vinifera are currently used in these workshops. Aiming to study the dye composition of wool samples dyed with the extracts of the selected biological sources and the changes induced by the dyeing procedures in the original chemical composition of the plant extract, raw materials and dyed wool (by us and in the workshops) were analyzed by HPLC–DAD and UHPLC–HRMS/MS. The main yellows for E. laevigata are luteolin-O-glycosides. In the other plant sources, the main chromophores are based on 3-O-glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin. In pistachio hulls, myricitin derivatives were detected and we propose their use as markers. Generally, the solutions extracted from the wool displayed a higher amount of more polar compounds, but also a higher amount of aglycones. Importantly, the chromatographic profiles of the samples we prepared compared well with 17th c. yellows in Persian carpets, and therefore can be considered highly characterized references for the study of Persian yellows.DCR - Departamento de Conservação e RestauroLAQV@REQUIMTEInstituto de Estudos Medievais (IEM)RUNSharif, SamanehNabais, PaulaMelo, Maria J.Conceição Oliveira, M.2020-07-10T22:21:13Z2020-02-182020-02-18T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/article16application/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10362/100673engPURE: 17241095https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25040908info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-05-22T17:46:24Zoai:run.unl.pt:10362/100673Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openairemluisa.alvim@gmail.comopendoar:71602024-05-22T17:46:24Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
The knowledge of master dyers revealed by HPLC-DAD and UHPLC-HRMS/MS
title Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
spellingShingle Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
Sharif, Samaneh
Conservation
Dye analysis
Flavonoids
HPLC
Mass spectrometry
Persian dyes
Soft extraction methods
Yellow colors
Analytical Chemistry
Chemistry (miscellaneous)
Molecular Medicine
Pharmaceutical Science
Drug Discovery
Physical and Theoretical Chemistry
Organic Chemistry
title_short Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
title_full Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
title_fullStr Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
title_full_unstemmed Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
title_sort Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran
author Sharif, Samaneh
author_facet Sharif, Samaneh
Nabais, Paula
Melo, Maria J.
Conceição Oliveira, M.
author_role author
author2 Nabais, Paula
Melo, Maria J.
Conceição Oliveira, M.
author2_role author
author
author
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro
LAQV@REQUIMTE
Instituto de Estudos Medievais (IEM)
RUN
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Sharif, Samaneh
Nabais, Paula
Melo, Maria J.
Conceição Oliveira, M.
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Conservation
Dye analysis
Flavonoids
HPLC
Mass spectrometry
Persian dyes
Soft extraction methods
Yellow colors
Analytical Chemistry
Chemistry (miscellaneous)
Molecular Medicine
Pharmaceutical Science
Drug Discovery
Physical and Theoretical Chemistry
Organic Chemistry
topic Conservation
Dye analysis
Flavonoids
HPLC
Mass spectrometry
Persian dyes
Soft extraction methods
Yellow colors
Analytical Chemistry
Chemistry (miscellaneous)
Molecular Medicine
Pharmaceutical Science
Drug Discovery
Physical and Theoretical Chemistry
Organic Chemistry
description UIDB/00749/2020 UIDP/00749/2020
publishDate 2020
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2020-07-10T22:21:13Z
2020-02-18
2020-02-18T00:00:00Z
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/10362/100673
url http://hdl.handle.net/10362/100673
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv PURE: 17241095
https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25040908
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv 16
application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron:RCAAP
instname_str Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron_str RCAAP
institution RCAAP
reponame_str Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
collection Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
repository.mail.fl_str_mv mluisa.alvim@gmail.com
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