Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Outros Autores: | , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/14985 |
Resumo: | Short-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective beach (Faro Beach, in S. Portugal) during and after the incidence of a fierce storm (Emma) that impacted the area in early 2018. Recovery in all three profiles showed rapid steepening of the beachface and significant recovery of eroded volumes (68–92%) within 45 days after the storm, while berm heights reached 4.5–5 m. Two calibration parameters were used (<i>facua</i> and <i>bermslope</i>), considering two sets of values, one for erosive (Hm0 ≥ 3 m) and one for accretive (Hm0 < 3 m) conditions. A correction of the runup height underestimation by the model in surfbeat mode was necessary to reproduce the measured berm elevation and morphology during recovery. Simulated profiles effectively capture storm erosion, but also berm growth and gradual recovery of the profiles, showing good skill in all three profiles and recovery phases. These experiments will be the basis to formulate event-scale simulations using schematized wave forcing that will allow to calibrate the model for longer-term changes. |
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Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beachesMorphodynamic modellingBeach recoveryXBeachSurfbeatBermBermslopePraia de FaroShort-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective beach (Faro Beach, in S. Portugal) during and after the incidence of a fierce storm (Emma) that impacted the area in early 2018. Recovery in all three profiles showed rapid steepening of the beachface and significant recovery of eroded volumes (68–92%) within 45 days after the storm, while berm heights reached 4.5–5 m. Two calibration parameters were used (<i>facua</i> and <i>bermslope</i>), considering two sets of values, one for erosive (Hm0 ≥ 3 m) and one for accretive (Hm0 < 3 m) conditions. A correction of the runup height underestimation by the model in surfbeat mode was necessary to reproduce the measured berm elevation and morphology during recovery. Simulated profiles effectively capture storm erosion, but also berm growth and gradual recovery of the profiles, showing good skill in all three profiles and recovery phases. These experiments will be the basis to formulate event-scale simulations using schematized wave forcing that will allow to calibrate the model for longer-term changes.This research was funded by FCT (Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia), Portugal, in the framework of the ENLACE project, grant number PTDC/CTA-GFI/28949/2017MDPISapientiaKombiadou, KaterinaCostas, SusanaRoelvink, Dano2021-01-25T11:57:28Z2021-01-152021-01-22T15:47:49Z2021-01-15T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/14985engJournal of Marine Science and Engineering 9 (1): 86 (2021)2077-131210.3390/jmse9010086info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2023-07-24T10:27:21Zoai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/14985Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-19T20:05:55.016646Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
title |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
spellingShingle |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches Kombiadou, Katerina Morphodynamic modelling Beach recovery XBeach Surfbeat Berm Bermslope Praia de Faro |
title_short |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
title_full |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
title_fullStr |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
title_full_unstemmed |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
title_sort |
Simulating destructive and constructive morphodynamic processes in steep beaches |
author |
Kombiadou, Katerina |
author_facet |
Kombiadou, Katerina Costas, Susana Roelvink, Dano |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Costas, Susana Roelvink, Dano |
author2_role |
author author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Sapientia |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Kombiadou, Katerina Costas, Susana Roelvink, Dano |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Morphodynamic modelling Beach recovery XBeach Surfbeat Berm Bermslope Praia de Faro |
topic |
Morphodynamic modelling Beach recovery XBeach Surfbeat Berm Bermslope Praia de Faro |
description |
Short-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective beach (Faro Beach, in S. Portugal) during and after the incidence of a fierce storm (Emma) that impacted the area in early 2018. Recovery in all three profiles showed rapid steepening of the beachface and significant recovery of eroded volumes (68–92%) within 45 days after the storm, while berm heights reached 4.5–5 m. Two calibration parameters were used (<i>facua</i> and <i>bermslope</i>), considering two sets of values, one for erosive (Hm0 ≥ 3 m) and one for accretive (Hm0 < 3 m) conditions. A correction of the runup height underestimation by the model in surfbeat mode was necessary to reproduce the measured berm elevation and morphology during recovery. Simulated profiles effectively capture storm erosion, but also berm growth and gradual recovery of the profiles, showing good skill in all three profiles and recovery phases. These experiments will be the basis to formulate event-scale simulations using schematized wave forcing that will allow to calibrate the model for longer-term changes. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021-01-25T11:57:28Z 2021-01-15 2021-01-22T15:47:49Z 2021-01-15T00:00:00Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/14985 |
url |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/14985 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9 (1): 86 (2021) 2077-1312 10.3390/jmse9010086 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
MDPI |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
MDPI |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
instname_str |
Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
|
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1799133299698827264 |