Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2012 |
Outros Autores: | , , , , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003874 |
Resumo: | This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the PortugueseWest coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport. |
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Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at LeirosaArtificial reefsNumerical modellingCoulwave modelWave breakingSurfability parametersCurrentsThis paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the PortugueseWest coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport.2012-10-09T10:03:32Z2014-10-20T13:35:55Z2017-04-12T13:29:23Z2012-03-01T00:00:00Z2012-03info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003874engMendonça, A. C.Fortes, C. J. E. M.Capitão, R.Neves, M. G.Moura, T.Antunes do Carmo, J.info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-01-13T03:01:45Zoai:localhost:123456789/1003874Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-20T01:38:17.348923Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
title |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
spellingShingle |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa Mendonça, A. C. Artificial reefs Numerical modelling Coulwave model Wave breaking Surfability parameters Currents |
title_short |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
title_full |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
title_fullStr |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
title_full_unstemmed |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
title_sort |
Wave hydrodynamics around a multifunctional artificial reef, at Leirosa |
author |
Mendonça, A. C. |
author_facet |
Mendonça, A. C. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Capitão, R. Neves, M. G. Moura, T. Antunes do Carmo, J. |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Fortes, C. J. E. M. Capitão, R. Neves, M. G. Moura, T. Antunes do Carmo, J. |
author2_role |
author author author author author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Mendonça, A. C. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Capitão, R. Neves, M. G. Moura, T. Antunes do Carmo, J. |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Artificial reefs Numerical modelling Coulwave model Wave breaking Surfability parameters Currents |
topic |
Artificial reefs Numerical modelling Coulwave model Wave breaking Surfability parameters Currents |
description |
This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the PortugueseWest coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport. |
publishDate |
2012 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2012-10-09T10:03:32Z 2012-03-01T00:00:00Z 2012-03 2014-10-20T13:35:55Z 2017-04-12T13:29:23Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003874 |
url |
http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003874 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
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Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
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1799136866657632256 |