Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Besrour, Nermine
Data de Publicação: 2022
Outros Autores: Oludemi, Taofiq, Mandim, Filipa, Pereira, Carla, Dias, Maria Inês, Soković, Marina, Stojković, Dejan, Ferreira, Olga, Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R., Barros, Lillian
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
Texto Completo: http://hdl.handle.net/10198/25483
Resumo: The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 g/mL.Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 g/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photoirritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.
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spelling Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation developmentJuglans regiaPhenolic compoundsCosmeceuticalsBioactivityThe cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 g/mL.Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 g/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photoirritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.This work was developed within the scope of the project AllNat—“Using natural deep eutectic solvents for the extraction of bioactive compounds from plant material” (reference POCI-01- 0145-FEDER-030463, PTDC/EQU-EPQ/30463/2017), funded by FEDER funds through COMPETE2020—Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI), Portugal 2020, and by national funds through the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT/MCTES). The authors are also grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal) for the financial support through national funds FCT/MCTES to the CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020). L. Barros, C. Pereira, and M. I. Dias are grateful to FCT P.I. for their contracts through the institutional scientific employment program. F. Mandim is grateful to FCT for her PhD grant (SFRH/BD/146614/2019). This work was also supported by MICINN for the Juan de la Cierva Formación contract for T. Oludemi (FJC2019-042549-I). This research was also funded by the Serbian Ministry of Education, Science and Technological Development (Contract No. 451–03-9/2021–14/200007).Biblioteca Digital do IPBBesrour, NermineOludemi, TaofiqMandim, FilipaPereira, CarlaDias, Maria InêsSoković, MarinaStojković, DejanFerreira, OlgaFerreira, Isabel C.F.R.Barros, Lillian2022-05-18T10:44:09Z20222022-01-01T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10198/25483engBesrour, Nermine; Oludemi, Taofiq; Mandim, Filipa; Pereira, Carla; Dias, Maria Inês; Soković, Marina; Stojković, Dejan; Ferreira, Olga; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.; Barros, Lillian (2022). Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development. Antioxidants. EISSN 2076-3921. 11:4, p. 1-1910.3390/antiox110406772076-3921info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2023-11-21T10:57:01Zoai:bibliotecadigital.ipb.pt:10198/25483Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-19T23:16:09.896311Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
title Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
spellingShingle Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
Besrour, Nermine
Juglans regia
Phenolic compounds
Cosmeceuticals
Bioactivity
title_short Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
title_full Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
title_fullStr Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
title_full_unstemmed Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
title_sort Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development
author Besrour, Nermine
author_facet Besrour, Nermine
Oludemi, Taofiq
Mandim, Filipa
Pereira, Carla
Dias, Maria Inês
Soković, Marina
Stojković, Dejan
Ferreira, Olga
Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.
Barros, Lillian
author_role author
author2 Oludemi, Taofiq
Mandim, Filipa
Pereira, Carla
Dias, Maria Inês
Soković, Marina
Stojković, Dejan
Ferreira, Olga
Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.
Barros, Lillian
author2_role author
author
author
author
author
author
author
author
author
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv Biblioteca Digital do IPB
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Besrour, Nermine
Oludemi, Taofiq
Mandim, Filipa
Pereira, Carla
Dias, Maria Inês
Soković, Marina
Stojković, Dejan
Ferreira, Olga
Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.
Barros, Lillian
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Juglans regia
Phenolic compounds
Cosmeceuticals
Bioactivity
topic Juglans regia
Phenolic compounds
Cosmeceuticals
Bioactivity
description The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 g/mL.Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 g/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photoirritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.
publishDate 2022
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2022-05-18T10:44:09Z
2022
2022-01-01T00:00:00Z
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/10198/25483
url http://hdl.handle.net/10198/25483
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv Besrour, Nermine; Oludemi, Taofiq; Mandim, Filipa; Pereira, Carla; Dias, Maria Inês; Soković, Marina; Stojković, Dejan; Ferreira, Olga; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.; Barros, Lillian (2022). Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development. Antioxidants. EISSN 2076-3921. 11:4, p. 1-19
10.3390/antiox11040677
2076-3921
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