Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2012 |
Outros Autores: | , , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003873 |
Resumo: | The presented work describes a wide range of wave channel tests performed at the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering (LNEC) with the main objective of introducing an extensive wave analysis regarding mainly the directional spreading analysis of the wave propagation under conditions of wave breaking on complex bathymetries. Therefore, this paper shows the experimental setup, the incident wave conditions, the measurements (free surface elevation and particle velocity) along the wave channel, especially at the wave breaking zone. Based upon the time series of the wave data measurements, a time, spectral and statistical analysis was performed and presented. Analyses are presented relating to: (i) the relative wave height (H/d); (ii) the wave celerity; (iii) the two-dimensional distribution of the particle velocities components; finally (iv) the average wave direction and spreading angle were carried out. The directional spreading analysis was supported by all the other calculated quantities in order to have an effective analysis on the wave breaking phenomena. The work performed contributed for a better understanding of the wave breaking process and especially at the end part of it. Moreover, the data obtained and the results of the performed analysis constitute an important basis for the establishment/improvement of numerical wave breaking models and its validation. |
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Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave BreakingWave breakingDirectional spreading modelPhysical modellingWave channelThe presented work describes a wide range of wave channel tests performed at the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering (LNEC) with the main objective of introducing an extensive wave analysis regarding mainly the directional spreading analysis of the wave propagation under conditions of wave breaking on complex bathymetries. Therefore, this paper shows the experimental setup, the incident wave conditions, the measurements (free surface elevation and particle velocity) along the wave channel, especially at the wave breaking zone. Based upon the time series of the wave data measurements, a time, spectral and statistical analysis was performed and presented. Analyses are presented relating to: (i) the relative wave height (H/d); (ii) the wave celerity; (iii) the two-dimensional distribution of the particle velocities components; finally (iv) the average wave direction and spreading angle were carried out. The directional spreading analysis was supported by all the other calculated quantities in order to have an effective analysis on the wave breaking phenomena. The work performed contributed for a better understanding of the wave breaking process and especially at the end part of it. Moreover, the data obtained and the results of the performed analysis constitute an important basis for the establishment/improvement of numerical wave breaking models and its validation.2012-10-09T10:03:25Z2014-10-20T13:35:54Z2017-04-13T11:48:09Z2012-07-01T00:00:00Z2012-07info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003873engNeves, D. R.Endres, L.Fortes, C. J. E. M.Okamoto, T.info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-01-13T03:06:33Zoai:localhost:123456789/1003873Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-20T01:40:01.677160Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
title |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
spellingShingle |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking Neves, D. R. Wave breaking Directional spreading model Physical modelling Wave channel |
title_short |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
title_full |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
title_fullStr |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
title_full_unstemmed |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
title_sort |
Directional Spreading Model in a Wave Channel. Wave Propagation and Wave Breaking |
author |
Neves, D. R. |
author_facet |
Neves, D. R. Endres, L. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Okamoto, T. |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Endres, L. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Okamoto, T. |
author2_role |
author author author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Neves, D. R. Endres, L. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Okamoto, T. |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Wave breaking Directional spreading model Physical modelling Wave channel |
topic |
Wave breaking Directional spreading model Physical modelling Wave channel |
description |
The presented work describes a wide range of wave channel tests performed at the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering (LNEC) with the main objective of introducing an extensive wave analysis regarding mainly the directional spreading analysis of the wave propagation under conditions of wave breaking on complex bathymetries. Therefore, this paper shows the experimental setup, the incident wave conditions, the measurements (free surface elevation and particle velocity) along the wave channel, especially at the wave breaking zone. Based upon the time series of the wave data measurements, a time, spectral and statistical analysis was performed and presented. Analyses are presented relating to: (i) the relative wave height (H/d); (ii) the wave celerity; (iii) the two-dimensional distribution of the particle velocities components; finally (iv) the average wave direction and spreading angle were carried out. The directional spreading analysis was supported by all the other calculated quantities in order to have an effective analysis on the wave breaking phenomena. The work performed contributed for a better understanding of the wave breaking process and especially at the end part of it. Moreover, the data obtained and the results of the performed analysis constitute an important basis for the establishment/improvement of numerical wave breaking models and its validation. |
publishDate |
2012 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2012-10-09T10:03:25Z 2012-07-01T00:00:00Z 2012-07 2014-10-20T13:35:54Z 2017-04-13T11:48:09Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003873 |
url |
http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1003873 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
instname_str |
Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
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Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
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