O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2020 |
Tipo de documento: | Tese |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Institucional da UFSCAR |
Texto Completo: | https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002 |
Resumo: | This thesis aims to understand the particularities of the creative work of fashion stylists, or also called fashion designers. To this end, we conducted semi-structured interviews with workers engaged in different activities in the area of fashion, with a selection of training in fashion courses for all respondents. The data obtained from the interviews and the bibliographic research allowed us to understand how these workers are incorporated into the labor market, their activities, work experiences, the importance of creativity, the search for status, and the importance of recognition. We chose to interview designers who are not part of the mainstream activity marked by the glamor of parties and fashion shows, but rather its “reverse” world, the daily life of those engaged in fashion production, particularly, the clothing sector. We have developed the argument that the fashion world is seen as a space of appearances that conveys the idea of glamor. Designers in this field expect status and recognition, but find the “reverse” of glamor in working relationships, low wages, informality, adversity in entering the labor market, activities that do not match workers’ education, frustrations and disenchantments with the occupation. What we call “reverse glamour” is the creation of a category of workers, the stylists, who are a reworked version of the all-in-one fashion creator, the tailor and the seamstress. Wrapped in a glamor of the fashion world, they find its “reverse” in the job market. |
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Voltarel, Amanda Coelho MartinsLima, Jacob Carloshttp://lattes.cnpq.br/9244132532446607http://lattes.cnpq.br/8203644162839798592cf118-ceae-47ad-8598-ad344910bd372020-07-03T11:14:30Z2020-07-03T11:14:30Z2020-05-05VOLTAREL, Amanda Coelho Martins. O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda. 2020. Tese (Doutorado em Sociologia) – Universidade Federal de São Carlos, São Carlos, 2020. Disponível em: https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002.https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002This thesis aims to understand the particularities of the creative work of fashion stylists, or also called fashion designers. To this end, we conducted semi-structured interviews with workers engaged in different activities in the area of fashion, with a selection of training in fashion courses for all respondents. The data obtained from the interviews and the bibliographic research allowed us to understand how these workers are incorporated into the labor market, their activities, work experiences, the importance of creativity, the search for status, and the importance of recognition. We chose to interview designers who are not part of the mainstream activity marked by the glamor of parties and fashion shows, but rather its “reverse” world, the daily life of those engaged in fashion production, particularly, the clothing sector. We have developed the argument that the fashion world is seen as a space of appearances that conveys the idea of glamor. Designers in this field expect status and recognition, but find the “reverse” of glamor in working relationships, low wages, informality, adversity in entering the labor market, activities that do not match workers’ education, frustrations and disenchantments with the occupation. What we call “reverse glamour” is the creation of a category of workers, the stylists, who are a reworked version of the all-in-one fashion creator, the tailor and the seamstress. Wrapped in a glamor of the fashion world, they find its “reverse” in the job market.Le but de cette thèse est de comprendre les particularités du travail créatif des stylistes de mode, aussi appelés créateurs de mode. À cette fin, nous avons mené des entretiens semi-structurés avec des travailleurs qui effectuent différentes activités dans le domaine de la mode, particulièrement, la formation dans les cours de mode pour tous les répondants. Les données issues des entretiens et la recherche bibliographique nous ont permis de comprendre comment ces travailleurs sont insérés dans le marché du travail, les activités qu’ils exercent, les expériences de travail, l’importance de la créativité, la recherche de statut, et l’importance de la reconnaissance de ces travailleurs. Nous avons choisi d’interviewer des créateurs qui ne font pas partie du courant dominant de l’activité marquée par le glamour des fêtes et des défilés, mais plutôt son « envers », la vie quotidienne de ceux qui travaillent dans la production de mode, en particulier, le secteur de la confection. Nous avons développé l’argument selon lequel le monde de la mode est considéré comme un espace d’apparences qui véhicule l’idée du glamour. Les créateurs de mode espèrent du statut et de la reconnaissance, mais ils trouvent le glamour « à l’envers » dans les relations de travail, les bas salaires, l’informalité, l’adversité dans l’entrée dans le marché du travail, les activités qui ne correspondent pas à l’éducation des travailleurs, les frustrations et les désenchantements avec l’occupation. Ce que nous appelons « l’envers du glamour » est la création d’une catégorie de travailleurs, les stylistes, qui représentent une version retravaillée de l’ancienne « tout-en-un créatrice de mode », le tailleur et la couturière. Enveloppés dans un glamour du monde de la mode, ils trouvent son « envers » dans le marché du travail.O objetivo deste trabalho é compreender as particularidades do trabalho criativo dos estilistas de moda ou também chamados de fashion designers. Para tal, realizamos entrevistas semiestruturadas com trabalhadores que exercem atividades distintas na área da moda, com o recorte de formação em cursos de moda para todos os entrevistados. Com os dados obtidos nas entrevistas e a pesquisa bibliográfica, buscamos entender a forma como estes trabalhadores se inserem no mercado de trabalho, quais atividades estão exercendo, as experiências de trabalho, a importância da criatividade para esses profissionais, como se dá a busca pelo status e a importância do reconhecimento para esses trabalhadores. Optamos por entrevistar os estilistas que não fazem parte do mainstream da atividade, marcado pelo glamour de festas e desfiles, mas sim do seu avesso, o dia a dia de quem trabalha na produção da moda, tendo como recorte o setor do vestuário. Desenvolvemos o argumento de que o mundo da moda é visto como um espaço de aparências que transmite a ideia de glamour. Os estilistas desse meio têm a expectativa de status e reconhecimento, mas encontram o “avesso” do glamour nas relações de trabalho, baixos salários, informalidade, adversidades na inserção no mercado de trabalho, atividades que não correspondem à formação dos trabalhadores, frustrações e desencantos com a ocupação. O que chamamos de “avesso do glamour” é a criação de uma categoria de trabalhadores, os estilistas, que se constituem em uma versão reelaborada da “modista”, do alfaiate e da costureira. Envolto de um ideário de glamour do mundo da moda, encontram no mercado de trabalho seu avesso.Não recebi financiamentoporUniversidade Federal de São CarlosCâmpus São CarlosPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Sociologia - PPGSUFSCarAttribution 3.0 Brazilhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/br/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessTrabalhoCriatividadeEstilistas de modaDesigners de modaWorkCreativityFashion stylistsFashion designersTravailCréativitéStylistes de modeCréateurs de modeCIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA::OUTRAS SOCIOLOGIAS ESPECIFICASO avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de modaThe reverse of glamor: a study of the work of fashion designers / designersinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis600600a13970c6-48b3-409e-a0de-b4db2319e35ereponame:Repositório Institucional da UFSCARinstname:Universidade Federal de São Carlos (UFSCAR)instacron:UFSCARORIGINALAmanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdfAmanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdfTese Versão Finalapplication/pdf2066187https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/1/Amanda%20%20Martins_Tese_Final_com%20folha%20de%20aprova%c3%a7%c3%a3o.pdf72b5383196d5dff90fb72a8bd3a6f406MD51Amanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdfAmanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdfCarta Comprovante da Versão Finalapplication/pdf157717https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/2/Amanda%20modelo-carta-comprovante%20vers%c3%a3o%20final%20tese.pdfc1ea8b8f9498137a9aee01f95ca535c0MD52CC-LICENSElicense_rdflicense_rdfapplication/rdf+xml; charset=utf-8914https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/3/license_rdf4d2950bda3d176f570a9f8b328dfbbefMD53TEXTAmanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdf.txtAmanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdf.txtExtracted texttext/plain1https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/4/Amanda%20modelo-carta-comprovante%20vers%c3%a3o%20final%20tese.pdf.txt68b329da9893e34099c7d8ad5cb9c940MD54Amanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdf.txtAmanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdf.txtExtracted texttext/plain328454https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/6/Amanda%20%20Martins_Tese_Final_com%20folha%20de%20aprova%c3%a7%c3%a3o.pdf.txt7e7124754c7cba4da597718f648c8f41MD56THUMBNAILAmanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdf.jpgAmanda modelo-carta-comprovante versão final tese.pdf.jpgIM Thumbnailimage/jpeg13621https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/5/Amanda%20modelo-carta-comprovante%20vers%c3%a3o%20final%20tese.pdf.jpg3a3b2beb4572cc23cab5cc2549d6e4f8MD55Amanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdf.jpgAmanda Martins_Tese_Final_com folha de aprovação.pdf.jpgIM Thumbnailimage/jpeg5851https://repositorio.ufscar.br/bitstream/ufscar/13002/7/Amanda%20%20Martins_Tese_Final_com%20folha%20de%20aprova%c3%a7%c3%a3o.pdf.jpg4c17453ce3fbf8ec35868dc3319a20acMD57ufscar/130022023-09-18 18:31:57.93oai:repositorio.ufscar.br:ufscar/13002Repositório InstitucionalPUBhttps://repositorio.ufscar.br/oai/requestopendoar:43222023-09-18T18:31:57Repositório Institucional da UFSCAR - Universidade Federal de São Carlos (UFSCAR)false |
dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
dc.title.alternative.eng.fl_str_mv |
The reverse of glamor: a study of the work of fashion designers / designers |
title |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
spellingShingle |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda Voltarel, Amanda Coelho Martins Trabalho Criatividade Estilistas de moda Designers de moda Work Creativity Fashion stylists Fashion designers Travail Créativité Stylistes de mode Créateurs de mode CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA::OUTRAS SOCIOLOGIAS ESPECIFICAS |
title_short |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
title_full |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
title_fullStr |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
title_full_unstemmed |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
title_sort |
O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda |
author |
Voltarel, Amanda Coelho Martins |
author_facet |
Voltarel, Amanda Coelho Martins |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.authorlattes.por.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/8203644162839798 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Voltarel, Amanda Coelho Martins |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
Lima, Jacob Carlos |
dc.contributor.advisor1Lattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/9244132532446607 |
dc.contributor.authorID.fl_str_mv |
592cf118-ceae-47ad-8598-ad344910bd37 |
contributor_str_mv |
Lima, Jacob Carlos |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Trabalho Criatividade Estilistas de moda Designers de moda |
topic |
Trabalho Criatividade Estilistas de moda Designers de moda Work Creativity Fashion stylists Fashion designers Travail Créativité Stylistes de mode Créateurs de mode CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA::OUTRAS SOCIOLOGIAS ESPECIFICAS |
dc.subject.eng.fl_str_mv |
Work Creativity Fashion stylists Fashion designers |
dc.subject.fra.fl_str_mv |
Travail Créativité Stylistes de mode Créateurs de mode |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA::OUTRAS SOCIOLOGIAS ESPECIFICAS |
description |
This thesis aims to understand the particularities of the creative work of fashion stylists, or also called fashion designers. To this end, we conducted semi-structured interviews with workers engaged in different activities in the area of fashion, with a selection of training in fashion courses for all respondents. The data obtained from the interviews and the bibliographic research allowed us to understand how these workers are incorporated into the labor market, their activities, work experiences, the importance of creativity, the search for status, and the importance of recognition. We chose to interview designers who are not part of the mainstream activity marked by the glamor of parties and fashion shows, but rather its “reverse” world, the daily life of those engaged in fashion production, particularly, the clothing sector. We have developed the argument that the fashion world is seen as a space of appearances that conveys the idea of glamor. Designers in this field expect status and recognition, but find the “reverse” of glamor in working relationships, low wages, informality, adversity in entering the labor market, activities that do not match workers’ education, frustrations and disenchantments with the occupation. What we call “reverse glamour” is the creation of a category of workers, the stylists, who are a reworked version of the all-in-one fashion creator, the tailor and the seamstress. Wrapped in a glamor of the fashion world, they find its “reverse” in the job market. |
publishDate |
2020 |
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2020-07-03T11:14:30Z |
dc.date.available.fl_str_mv |
2020-07-03T11:14:30Z |
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv |
2020-05-05 |
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VOLTAREL, Amanda Coelho Martins. O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda. 2020. Tese (Doutorado em Sociologia) – Universidade Federal de São Carlos, São Carlos, 2020. Disponível em: https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002. |
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https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002 |
identifier_str_mv |
VOLTAREL, Amanda Coelho Martins. O avesso do glamour: um estudo do trabalho dos estilistas/designers de moda. 2020. Tese (Doutorado em Sociologia) – Universidade Federal de São Carlos, São Carlos, 2020. Disponível em: https://repositorio.ufscar.br/handle/ufscar/13002. |
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Universidade Federal de São Carlos Câmpus São Carlos |
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Universidade Federal de São Carlos Câmpus São Carlos |
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