Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Percebom, Julia Maria
Data de Publicação: 2022
Outros Autores: Italiano, Isabel Cristina
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: por
Título da fonte: Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design
Texto Completo: https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/22293
Resumo: In the development of knitted garments patternmaking, not only the degree of elasticity of the knit should be considered, but also the desired fit, the composition and the weight of the knit. However, there is a lack of more objective approaches on all aspects that involve knitwear patternmaking. Therefore, the objective of this article is to analyze the Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking, through the making of long-sleeved blouses. For this, the top slopers and sleeve draftings were studied. according to three fitting variations: fitted, semi-fitted and loose-fit. Six knit types were selected, with the stretch factor by the manual method. Thus, with the percentages of elasticity defined, each knit was classified according to Cole's (2016) approach and nomenclature. For the slopers choice, according to the desired fit, the author in question only describes the fit for super stretchy knits. Thus, it was necessary to apply the same reasoning to the other knit types and, then, slopers with more ease were created, so that the arrangement between the fit and the kint stretch categories were proportional. In addition, the aim was to identify parameters that would allow for a careful evaluation of the pieces made using Cole's (2016) method. As a result, eighteen long-sleeved blouses were made. During the prototypes analysis, it was observed the blouses developed according to Cole's approach have an adequate fit quality and the patternmaking with the geometry corresponding to the contours of the body.
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spelling Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking Estudio y análisis del método de Julie Cole para patronaje de ropa de tejidos de puntoEstudo e análise do método de Julie Cole para a modelagem do vestuário em malhaModelagemMalhaVestuárioPatternmakinKnitGarmentPatronajeTecido de PuntoRopaIn the development of knitted garments patternmaking, not only the degree of elasticity of the knit should be considered, but also the desired fit, the composition and the weight of the knit. However, there is a lack of more objective approaches on all aspects that involve knitwear patternmaking. Therefore, the objective of this article is to analyze the Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking, through the making of long-sleeved blouses. For this, the top slopers and sleeve draftings were studied. according to three fitting variations: fitted, semi-fitted and loose-fit. Six knit types were selected, with the stretch factor by the manual method. Thus, with the percentages of elasticity defined, each knit was classified according to Cole's (2016) approach and nomenclature. For the slopers choice, according to the desired fit, the author in question only describes the fit for super stretchy knits. Thus, it was necessary to apply the same reasoning to the other knit types and, then, slopers with more ease were created, so that the arrangement between the fit and the kint stretch categories were proportional. In addition, the aim was to identify parameters that would allow for a careful evaluation of the pieces made using Cole's (2016) method. As a result, eighteen long-sleeved blouses were made. During the prototypes analysis, it was observed the blouses developed according to Cole's approach have an adequate fit quality and the patternmaking with the geometry corresponding to the contours of the body.Durante la etapa de patronaje para ropa de tejido de punto, se debe considerar no sólo el grado de elasticidad del tejido, sino también el ajuste, la composición y el grosor. Sin embargo, hay una falta de enfoques más objetivos sobre todos los aspectos que implican el patronaje de prendas en tejido de punto. Así, el objetivo de este artículo es analizar el método de la autora Julie Cole para realizar el patronaje de prendas de tejido, a través de la confección de blusas de manga larga. Para ello, fueron estudiados los trazados de los bloques de patrones básicos de la blusa y la manga, en tres variaciones de entalle: entallado, semi entallado y suelto. Se seleccionaron seis tipos de tejido de punto con la determinación del factor de elasticidad por el método manual. Así, con los porcentajes de elasticidad definidos, cada tejido se clasificó según el enfoque y la nomenclatura de Cole (2016). Para la elección del bloque de patrones básicos de acuerdo con el ajuste deseado, la autora em cuestión sólo describe el entalle para tejidos de punto súper elásticos. De esa manera, fue necesario aplicar el razonamiento de la misma a los otros tipos de tejidos de punto y, entonces, se trazaron patrones con más holguras, de modo que la disposición entre los tipos de entalle y las categorías de elasticidad de los tejidos de punto fuera proporcional. Además, se buscó identificar parámetros que permitieran la evaluación cuidadosa de las prendas realizadas con el método de Cole (2016). Como resultado, se hicieron dieciocho blusas de manga larga. Durante el análisis de los prototipos, se observó que las blusas desarrollada según el enfoque de Cole (2016) tienen una calidad de entalle adecuada y un patronaje correspondiente a los contornos del cuerpo.No desenvolvimento da modelagem para o vestuário em malha, deve-se considerar não apenas o grau de elasticidade da malha, mas, também, o ajuste desejado, a composição e a sua gramatura. No entanto, há uma carência de abordagens mais objetivas sobre todos os aspectos que envolvem a modelagem para peças em malha. Sendo assim, o objetivo deste artigo é analisar o método da autora Julie Cole para a modelagem do vestuário em malha, por meio da confecção de blusas de manga comprida. Para isso, foram estudados os traçados dos blocos básicos da blusa e da manga, em três variações de ajuste: ajustado, semi ajustado e folgado. Foram selecionados seis tipos de malha, com a determinação do fator de elasticidade pelo método manual. Assim, com as porcentagens de elasticidade definidas, cada malha foi classificada de acordo com a abordagem e a nomenclatura de Cole (2016). Para a escolha do bloco básico conforme o ajuste desejado, a autora em questão apenas descreve o ajuste para malhas super elásticas. Dessa forma, fez-se necessário aplicar raciocínio da mesma para os outros tipos de malhas e, então, moldes com mais folgas foram criados, de forma que a disposição entre os ajustes e as categorias de elasticidade das malhas ficassem proporcionais. Além disso, buscou-se identificar parâmetros que possibilitassem a avaliação criteriosa das peças confeccionadas com o método de Cole (2016). Como resultado, dezoito blusas de manga longa foram confeccionadas. Durante a análise dos protótipos, observou-se que as blusas desenvolvidas segundo a abordagem de Cole (2016) possuem uma qualidade de ajuste adequada e uma modelagem com a geometria correspondente aos contornos do corpo.Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2022-09-20info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionArtigo de convidadoapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2229310.5965/25944630632022e2293Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 6 n. 3 (2022): Dossiê Especial 16o Colóquio de Moda; 1- 302594-463010.5965/25944630632022e0001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/22293/14782Copyright (c) 2022 Julia Percebom, Isabel Italianohttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessPercebom, Julia MariaItaliano, Isabel Cristina2024-02-29T12:49:13Zoai::article/22293Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2024-02-29T12:49:13Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
Estudio y análisis del método de Julie Cole para patronaje de ropa de tejidos de punto
Estudo e análise do método de Julie Cole para a modelagem do vestuário em malha
title Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
spellingShingle Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
Percebom, Julia Maria
Modelagem
Malha
Vestuário
Patternmakin
Knit
Garment
Patronaje
Tecido de Punto
Ropa
title_short Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
title_full Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
title_fullStr Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
title_full_unstemmed Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
title_sort Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking
author Percebom, Julia Maria
author_facet Percebom, Julia Maria
Italiano, Isabel Cristina
author_role author
author2 Italiano, Isabel Cristina
author2_role author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Percebom, Julia Maria
Italiano, Isabel Cristina
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Modelagem
Malha
Vestuário
Patternmakin
Knit
Garment
Patronaje
Tecido de Punto
Ropa
topic Modelagem
Malha
Vestuário
Patternmakin
Knit
Garment
Patronaje
Tecido de Punto
Ropa
description In the development of knitted garments patternmaking, not only the degree of elasticity of the knit should be considered, but also the desired fit, the composition and the weight of the knit. However, there is a lack of more objective approaches on all aspects that involve knitwear patternmaking. Therefore, the objective of this article is to analyze the Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking, through the making of long-sleeved blouses. For this, the top slopers and sleeve draftings were studied. according to three fitting variations: fitted, semi-fitted and loose-fit. Six knit types were selected, with the stretch factor by the manual method. Thus, with the percentages of elasticity defined, each knit was classified according to Cole's (2016) approach and nomenclature. For the slopers choice, according to the desired fit, the author in question only describes the fit for super stretchy knits. Thus, it was necessary to apply the same reasoning to the other knit types and, then, slopers with more ease were created, so that the arrangement between the fit and the kint stretch categories were proportional. In addition, the aim was to identify parameters that would allow for a careful evaluation of the pieces made using Cole's (2016) method. As a result, eighteen long-sleeved blouses were made. During the prototypes analysis, it was observed the blouses developed according to Cole's approach have an adequate fit quality and the patternmaking with the geometry corresponding to the contours of the body.
publishDate 2022
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2022-09-20
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
Artigo de convidado
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/22293
10.5965/25944630632022e2293
url https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/22293
identifier_str_mv 10.5965/25944630632022e2293
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv por
language por
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/22293/14782
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv Copyright (c) 2022 Julia Percebom, Isabel Italiano
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv Copyright (c) 2022 Julia Percebom, Isabel Italiano
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 6 n. 3 (2022): Dossiê Especial 16o Colóquio de Moda; 1- 30
2594-4630
10.5965/25944630632022e0001
reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design
instname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)
instacron:UDESC
instname_str Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)
instacron_str UDESC
institution UDESC
reponame_str Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design
collection Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design
repository.name.fl_str_mv Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)
repository.mail.fl_str_mv reamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br
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