Dener Pamplona de Abreu e as costuras de luxo e elegância para as donas-de-casa no início da década de 1970

• Autor(a) principal: Frasquete, Débora Russi
• Data de Publicação: 2016
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Repositório Institucional da Universidade Estadual de Maringá (RI-UEM)
• Texto Completo: http://repositorio.uem.br:8080/jspui/handle/1/4581
• topic: Elegância; Moda; Mulheres; Curso básico de corte e costura; Ciências Humanas; História

In Brazil, the production of clothing as fashion cultural goods, has undergone significant changes between 1960 and 1970. The production system of prêt-à-porter (clothes ready to wear) through the clothing industry alters the dynamics of consumption. Given the changes, the luxury fashion practiced by couturiers resets itself. Are the strategies developed by one of the fashion representatives, who wore the richest women in Brasil that the study focuses: the couturier Dener Pamplona de Abreu (1937-1978), considered the creator of a fashion with national characteristics. This identity construction with fabrics, colors and design with the brazilian biotype achieved great recognition. However, the 1970s marked the end of the golden years of haute couture. To couturiers such as Dener, the new dynamics of the market dictated by the prêt-à-porter meant adjustments and changes in production and consumption strategies. In order to study the narratives of clothes and fashion for women produced by the couturier, we turn to one of the symbols of their strategies, the publication in 1972 of Dener Cutting and Sewing Basic Course which aimed to teach fashion to women. Teachings about making clothes, what to use and how to become elegant make the method compilation, organized in three volumes. In this paper, our attention turns to one side of this production: the guidelines on the uses of clothing by "ordinary women" and its construction through the seam made at home. As a marketing strategy developed by Dener, the thematic focus is due to the fact that through it's possible see and identify the transits and the adjustments made by the couturier, accustomed to luxury, to talk about clothes with housewives. In addition to the method, the information collected in the press, in particular in the newspaper Correio da Manhã and the magazine Manequim support the analysis. In this empirical material, we associate biographical narratives about the couturier, the history of fashion and of women in Brazil. With this methodological procedure was possible to show the positions of the couturier in their actions and reactions to the advances of brazilian fashion