300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Jardim, Marilia
Data de Publicação: 2021
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Revista dObra[s]
Texto Completo: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1286
Resumo: The article reflects on a research project analysing 300 years of the practice ofconstraining the feminine torso, aiming at presenting the theories supporting the investigationto expose how their intersection and articulation could become a method for analysing fashionobjects. Stemming from the semiotics works concerned with the plastic of objects, mainlythe theories proposed by Greimas and further developed by Floch and Oliveira, we present anaddress of Fashion beyond its visual dimension, exploring the manners in which the relationsbetween the body and its dress are problems of discourse and narrative interactions, returningto Greimas’ Standard Semiotics and Landowski’s Socio-semiotics. The combination of theoriespresented in this piece was used to examine a corpus of feminine apparatuses utilised to reshapea woman’s silhouette throughout history, from the 18th century to the present, such ascorsets and crinolines, as well as various other types of shapewear, in combination with theanalysis of supporting texts, such as Artworks, literary works, pieces of popular culture andadvertisement. The work presents the steps of the investigation taking place between 2012and 2014 – the selection of the corpus and its analysis – and the future developments stemmingfrom that first exam, bringing about a reconstruction of the work and its results as a methodologicproposition that can serve the analysis of sartorial objects but is equally pertinent to theanalysis of any other manifestation that is subjected to rhythmic changes.
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spelling 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics300 anos de corpos e corsets em suas manifestações rítmicas: por uma semiótica da modaCorsetFeminine bodyWestern fashionVisual semioticsSocio-semioticsCorsetCorpo femininoModa ocidentalSemiótica visualSociossemióticaThe article reflects on a research project analysing 300 years of the practice ofconstraining the feminine torso, aiming at presenting the theories supporting the investigationto expose how their intersection and articulation could become a method for analysing fashionobjects. Stemming from the semiotics works concerned with the plastic of objects, mainlythe theories proposed by Greimas and further developed by Floch and Oliveira, we present anaddress of Fashion beyond its visual dimension, exploring the manners in which the relationsbetween the body and its dress are problems of discourse and narrative interactions, returningto Greimas’ Standard Semiotics and Landowski’s Socio-semiotics. The combination of theoriespresented in this piece was used to examine a corpus of feminine apparatuses utilised to reshapea woman’s silhouette throughout history, from the 18th century to the present, such ascorsets and crinolines, as well as various other types of shapewear, in combination with theanalysis of supporting texts, such as Artworks, literary works, pieces of popular culture andadvertisement. The work presents the steps of the investigation taking place between 2012and 2014 – the selection of the corpus and its analysis – and the future developments stemmingfrom that first exam, bringing about a reconstruction of the work and its results as a methodologicproposition that can serve the analysis of sartorial objects but is equally pertinent to theanalysis of any other manifestation that is subjected to rhythmic changes.O presente artigo parte do projeto de pesquisa que analisou 300 anos da práticade constrição do torso feminino, com o objetivo de apresentar as teorias que ofereceram o suporteteórico à investigação, explorando em que medida sua intersecção e articulação pode serpostulada como um método de análise de objetos da moda. Partindo dos trabalhos semióticospreocupados com a plástica dos objetos, particularmente as teorias propostas por Greimas esubsequentemente desenvolvidas por Floch e Oliveira, propomos um exame da moda além desua plástica, explorando as maneiras como as relações entre corpo e vestimenta se traduzemem problemas do discurso e das interações narrativas, retornando à semiótica de Greimas e àsociossemiótica de Landowski. A combinação de teorias apresentadas neste artigo foi utilizadana investigação de um corpus de dispositivos femininos utilizados para re-modelar a silhuetada mulher pela História, tais como corsets e crinolinas, e também os vários tipos de shapers,em conjunto com a análise de textos de suporte, como obras de arte, trabalhos literários, peçasda cultura popular e anúncios publicitários. O trabalho apresenta os passos da investigação queocorreram entre 2012 e 2014 – a seleção do corpus e seu estudo – bem como os desenvolvimentosfuturos que partem desse primeiro exame, promovendo a reconstrução do trabalho que resultaem uma proposição metodológica que serve não apenas à análise de objetos vestimentares,mas que é pertinente a quaisquer outras manifestações que sejam sujeitas a mudanças rítmicas.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2021-04-14info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/128610.26563/dobras.i31.1286dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 31 (2021); 41-632358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMenghttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1286/669Jardim, Mariliainfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess2021-04-23T16:56:11Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1286Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2023-01-12T16:05:44.198612Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)true
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
300 anos de corpos e corsets em suas manifestações rítmicas: por uma semiótica da moda
title 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
spellingShingle 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
Jardim, Marilia
Corset
Feminine body
Western fashion
Visual semiotics
Socio-semiotics
Corset
Corpo feminino
Moda ocidental
Semiótica visual
Sociossemiótica
title_short 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
title_full 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
title_fullStr 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
title_full_unstemmed 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
title_sort 300 years of bodies and corsets in their rhythmic manifestations: for a fashion semiotics
author Jardim, Marilia
author_facet Jardim, Marilia
author_role author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Jardim, Marilia
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Corset
Feminine body
Western fashion
Visual semiotics
Socio-semiotics
Corset
Corpo feminino
Moda ocidental
Semiótica visual
Sociossemiótica
topic Corset
Feminine body
Western fashion
Visual semiotics
Socio-semiotics
Corset
Corpo feminino
Moda ocidental
Semiótica visual
Sociossemiótica
description The article reflects on a research project analysing 300 years of the practice ofconstraining the feminine torso, aiming at presenting the theories supporting the investigationto expose how their intersection and articulation could become a method for analysing fashionobjects. Stemming from the semiotics works concerned with the plastic of objects, mainlythe theories proposed by Greimas and further developed by Floch and Oliveira, we present anaddress of Fashion beyond its visual dimension, exploring the manners in which the relationsbetween the body and its dress are problems of discourse and narrative interactions, returningto Greimas’ Standard Semiotics and Landowski’s Socio-semiotics. The combination of theoriespresented in this piece was used to examine a corpus of feminine apparatuses utilised to reshapea woman’s silhouette throughout history, from the 18th century to the present, such ascorsets and crinolines, as well as various other types of shapewear, in combination with theanalysis of supporting texts, such as Artworks, literary works, pieces of popular culture andadvertisement. The work presents the steps of the investigation taking place between 2012and 2014 – the selection of the corpus and its analysis – and the future developments stemmingfrom that first exam, bringing about a reconstruction of the work and its results as a methodologicproposition that can serve the analysis of sartorial objects but is equally pertinent to theanalysis of any other manifestation that is subjected to rhythmic changes.
publishDate 2021
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2021-04-14
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1286
10.26563/dobras.i31.1286
url https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1286
identifier_str_mv 10.26563/dobras.i31.1286
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1286/669
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 31 (2021); 41-63
2358-0003
1982-0313
reponame:Revista dObra[s]
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instacron_str ABEPEM
institution ABEPEM
reponame_str Revista dObra[s]
collection Revista dObra[s]
repository.name.fl_str_mv Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)
repository.mail.fl_str_mv dobras.abepem@gmail.com
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