“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Oliveira, Tatalina
Data de Publicação: 2024
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: por
Título da fonte: Revista dObra[s]
Texto Completo: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678
Resumo: In the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events.
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spelling “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife“Respeito muito minhas lágrimas, e muito mais minhas risadas”: artefatos de moda, processos de identificação e construção de Estilo da comunidade Homoerótica Urso/ Bear recifenseBearsHomoaffectivityFashionGarmentConsumptionUrsosHomoafetividadeModaVestuárioConsumoIn the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events.Em meio à vasta possibilidade de ser evidenciadas no universo gay, uma comunidade, em especial, chama a atenção: Bears ou Ursos. Oriunda dos anos 1980, na cidade de São Francisco (Califórnia), esta comunidade tem como característica mais forte a ressignificação, com consequente valorização da gordura corporal, dos pelos e da homossexualidade masculina a partir de um estilo de vida hipermasculino (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). A reivindicação daquela que seria a imagem do “macho rústico original” vem acompanhada do consumo de artefatos de moda específicos, que os proporciona uma imagem “heterossexual” e uma circulação em espaços gays ou heteronormativos. Por meio do uso da etnografia e entrevista compreensiva, associadas à uma ampla investigação bibliográfica, com posterior análise de conteúdo, e tendo a cidade do Recife-PE como marco geográfico de estudo, foi possível chegar ao conceito de transitabilidade; à relação de causalidade entre a processos de identificação ursina e às violências de ordem física e simbólica sofridas pelos entrevistados ainda na infância; aos processos rituais de consumo e fruição de artefatos de moda e à ansiedade/medo do escrutínio de seus pares quando da escolha de uma peça “errada” para eventos ursinos.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2024-04-01info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/167810.26563/dobras.i40.1678dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 40 (2024); 293-3132358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMporhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678/858Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveirahttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessOliveira, Tatalina2024-04-01T12:57:52Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1678Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2024-04-01T12:57:52Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)false
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
“Respeito muito minhas lágrimas, e muito mais minhas risadas”: artefatos de moda, processos de identificação e construção de Estilo da comunidade Homoerótica Urso/ Bear recifense
title “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
spellingShingle “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
Oliveira, Tatalina
Bears
Homoaffectivity
Fashion
Garment
Consumption
Ursos
Homoafetividade
Moda
Vestuário
Consumo
title_short “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
title_full “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
title_fullStr “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
title_full_unstemmed “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
title_sort “I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
author Oliveira, Tatalina
author_facet Oliveira, Tatalina
author_role author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Oliveira, Tatalina
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Bears
Homoaffectivity
Fashion
Garment
Consumption
Ursos
Homoafetividade
Moda
Vestuário
Consumo
topic Bears
Homoaffectivity
Fashion
Garment
Consumption
Ursos
Homoafetividade
Moda
Vestuário
Consumo
description In the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events.
publishDate 2024
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2024-04-01
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678
10.26563/dobras.i40.1678
url https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678
identifier_str_mv 10.26563/dobras.i40.1678
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv por
language por
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678/858
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveira
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveira
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 40 (2024); 293-313
2358-0003
1982-0313
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instacron_str ABEPEM
institution ABEPEM
reponame_str Revista dObra[s]
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repository.name.fl_str_mv Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)
repository.mail.fl_str_mv dobras.abepem@gmail.com
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