“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2024 |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista dObra[s] |
Texto Completo: | https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678 |
Resumo: | In the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events. |
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“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife“Respeito muito minhas lágrimas, e muito mais minhas risadas”: artefatos de moda, processos de identificação e construção de Estilo da comunidade Homoerótica Urso/ Bear recifenseBearsHomoaffectivityFashionGarmentConsumptionUrsosHomoafetividadeModaVestuárioConsumoIn the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events.Em meio à vasta possibilidade de ser evidenciadas no universo gay, uma comunidade, em especial, chama a atenção: Bears ou Ursos. Oriunda dos anos 1980, na cidade de São Francisco (Califórnia), esta comunidade tem como característica mais forte a ressignificação, com consequente valorização da gordura corporal, dos pelos e da homossexualidade masculina a partir de um estilo de vida hipermasculino (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). A reivindicação daquela que seria a imagem do “macho rústico original” vem acompanhada do consumo de artefatos de moda específicos, que os proporciona uma imagem “heterossexual” e uma circulação em espaços gays ou heteronormativos. Por meio do uso da etnografia e entrevista compreensiva, associadas à uma ampla investigação bibliográfica, com posterior análise de conteúdo, e tendo a cidade do Recife-PE como marco geográfico de estudo, foi possível chegar ao conceito de transitabilidade; à relação de causalidade entre a processos de identificação ursina e às violências de ordem física e simbólica sofridas pelos entrevistados ainda na infância; aos processos rituais de consumo e fruição de artefatos de moda e à ansiedade/medo do escrutínio de seus pares quando da escolha de uma peça “errada” para eventos ursinos.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2024-04-01info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/167810.26563/dobras.i40.1678dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 40 (2024); 293-3132358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMporhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678/858Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveirahttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessOliveira, Tatalina2024-04-01T12:57:52Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1678Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2024-04-01T12:57:52Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife “Respeito muito minhas lágrimas, e muito mais minhas risadas”: artefatos de moda, processos de identificação e construção de Estilo da comunidade Homoerótica Urso/ Bear recifense |
title |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
spellingShingle |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife Oliveira, Tatalina Bears Homoaffectivity Fashion Garment Consumption Ursos Homoafetividade Moda Vestuário Consumo |
title_short |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
title_full |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
title_fullStr |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
title_full_unstemmed |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
title_sort |
“I truly respect my tears, but even more my laughs”: fashion artifacts, identification processes and style construction of gay Bear fashion style in Recife |
author |
Oliveira, Tatalina |
author_facet |
Oliveira, Tatalina |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Oliveira, Tatalina |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Bears Homoaffectivity Fashion Garment Consumption Ursos Homoafetividade Moda Vestuário Consumo |
topic |
Bears Homoaffectivity Fashion Garment Consumption Ursos Homoafetividade Moda Vestuário Consumo |
description |
In the middle of the vast possibilities of being in gay universe, a special sub-culture stands out: Bears. Deriving from the 1980’s, from the city of San Francisco (California), this group has the reframe (with consequent valorization) of body fat and facial and corporeal hair, and homosexuality, with hyper masculine performativity, as its strongest characteristics (Domingos, 2010; Hennen, 2008). The claim of the “original macho man” image is stimulated by the consumption of some specific fashion artifacts that give them certain “free pass” in both straight and gay spaces. Using ethnography and comprehensive interview, associated to a high range of bibliographic research, with posterior content analysis, and having the city of Recife-PE as a scenery, it was possible to reach to the concept of “transitability”; to the causal relationship between Bear identification processes and physical and symbolic violence suffered in childhood; to the ritual processes of consumption of some fashion artifacts; to the anxiety/fear of the scrutiny among other bears when it comes to the wrong choice of a garment to any Bear events. |
publishDate |
2024 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2024-04-01 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678 10.26563/dobras.i40.1678 |
url |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.26563/dobras.i40.1678 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1678/858 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveira https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2024 Tatalina Oliveira https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 40 (2024); 293-313 2358-0003 1982-0313 reponame:Revista dObra[s] instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) instacron:ABEPEM |
instname_str |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
instacron_str |
ABEPEM |
institution |
ABEPEM |
reponame_str |
Revista dObra[s] |
collection |
Revista dObra[s] |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
dobras.abepem@gmail.com |
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1797054039022632960 |