The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Azevedo, Sílvia Maria
Data de Publicação: 2020
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: por
Título da fonte: Revista dObra[s]
Texto Completo: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1140
Resumo: A publication of great success and impressive selling, the magazine Revista Feminina (1915-1936) – founded by Virgilina de Souza Salles, a prominent figure of the São Paulo elite – had the objective of guiding its readers on domestic issues and making them aware of popular causes in a mo-ment of great expansion of the feminist movement (the right to vote and to work). Among the sections in the magazine approaching various topics, it is worth mentioning the one signed by Marinette, which was named Fashion, accompanied by illustrations (such as drawings and photographs) and focused on infor-mation about fashion from Paris, available in major department stores in São Paulo, such as La Saison and Mappin. World War I had a significant impact on the field of fashion, not only in the disappearance of fluid lines and fair skirts of the Edwardian era but also in the social role of women, who took the places of men in the ammunition factories, as well as offices and shops. Reflections on the changes in fashion as a result of the war were evident in the Fashion section of the magazine Revista Feminina, where Marinette, in addition to commenting on them, informed the readers about the reasons for such changes. The purpose of this article is to analyze the said section of Revista Feminina and propose a social and cultural reflection on the position of the magazine through the texts written by Marinette about the transformations in the fashion industry during the years of the First War, as well as its resonances in the behavior of women.
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spelling The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)A Revista Feminina e a moda em tempos de guerra (1914-1918)Revista FemininaWorld War IFashionRevista FemininaPrimeira Guerra MundialModaA publication of great success and impressive selling, the magazine Revista Feminina (1915-1936) – founded by Virgilina de Souza Salles, a prominent figure of the São Paulo elite – had the objective of guiding its readers on domestic issues and making them aware of popular causes in a mo-ment of great expansion of the feminist movement (the right to vote and to work). Among the sections in the magazine approaching various topics, it is worth mentioning the one signed by Marinette, which was named Fashion, accompanied by illustrations (such as drawings and photographs) and focused on infor-mation about fashion from Paris, available in major department stores in São Paulo, such as La Saison and Mappin. World War I had a significant impact on the field of fashion, not only in the disappearance of fluid lines and fair skirts of the Edwardian era but also in the social role of women, who took the places of men in the ammunition factories, as well as offices and shops. Reflections on the changes in fashion as a result of the war were evident in the Fashion section of the magazine Revista Feminina, where Marinette, in addition to commenting on them, informed the readers about the reasons for such changes. The purpose of this article is to analyze the said section of Revista Feminina and propose a social and cultural reflection on the position of the magazine through the texts written by Marinette about the transformations in the fashion industry during the years of the First War, as well as its resonances in the behavior of women.Periódico de grande sucesso de público e vendagem, a Revista Feminina (1915-1936), fun-dada por Virgilina de Souza Salles, figura proeminente da elite paulistana, tinha por objetivo orientar as leitoras sobre questões domésticas e conscientizá-las em relação às causas femininas (direito ao voto, trabalho fora do lar) em um momento de grande expansão do movimento feminista. Entre as seções de temas variados que caracterizam a Revista Feminina, cabe destacar aquela assinada por Marinette e que atendia pelo título “A Moda”, espaço acompanhado de ilustrações (desenhos, fotografias), voltado à informação acerca da moda proveniente de Paris, disponível nas grandes lojas de departamento de São Paulo, como La Saison e Mappin Stores. Deflagrada a Primeira Guerra Mundial, os impactos do conflito repercutiram de maneira significativa no território da moda, quer no desaparecimento das linhas flui-das e das saias justas da época eduardina, quer no papel da mulher na sociedade, que assumia o lugar dos homens em fábricas de munição, escritórios e lojas. Reflexos das mudanças na moda, decorrentes da guerra, se fizeram sentir na seção “A Moda”, da Revista Feminina, na qual Marinette, além de comen-tá-las, informava as leitoras sobre as razões de tais mudanças. O objetivo do artigo é analisar a referida seção da Revista Feminina e propor uma reflexão de ordem social e cultural quanto ao posicionamento da revista paulistana, por intermédio da cronista Marinette, a respeito das transformações na indústria da moda durante os anos da Primeira Guerra, e suas ressonâncias no comportamento das mulheres.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2020-08-03info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/114010.26563/dobras.v14i29.1140dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; v. 14 n. 29 (2020); 122-1432358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMporhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1140/623Copyright (c) 2020 Sílvia Maria Azevedoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessAzevedo, Sílvia Maria2020-08-03T21:06:25Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1140Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2023-01-12T16:05:42.082283Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)true
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
A Revista Feminina e a moda em tempos de guerra (1914-1918)
title The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
spellingShingle The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
Azevedo, Sílvia Maria
Revista Feminina
World War I
Fashion
Revista Feminina
Primeira Guerra Mundial
Moda
title_short The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
title_full The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
title_fullStr The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
title_full_unstemmed The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
title_sort The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)
author Azevedo, Sílvia Maria
author_facet Azevedo, Sílvia Maria
author_role author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Azevedo, Sílvia Maria
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Revista Feminina
World War I
Fashion
Revista Feminina
Primeira Guerra Mundial
Moda
topic Revista Feminina
World War I
Fashion
Revista Feminina
Primeira Guerra Mundial
Moda
description A publication of great success and impressive selling, the magazine Revista Feminina (1915-1936) – founded by Virgilina de Souza Salles, a prominent figure of the São Paulo elite – had the objective of guiding its readers on domestic issues and making them aware of popular causes in a mo-ment of great expansion of the feminist movement (the right to vote and to work). Among the sections in the magazine approaching various topics, it is worth mentioning the one signed by Marinette, which was named Fashion, accompanied by illustrations (such as drawings and photographs) and focused on infor-mation about fashion from Paris, available in major department stores in São Paulo, such as La Saison and Mappin. World War I had a significant impact on the field of fashion, not only in the disappearance of fluid lines and fair skirts of the Edwardian era but also in the social role of women, who took the places of men in the ammunition factories, as well as offices and shops. Reflections on the changes in fashion as a result of the war were evident in the Fashion section of the magazine Revista Feminina, where Marinette, in addition to commenting on them, informed the readers about the reasons for such changes. The purpose of this article is to analyze the said section of Revista Feminina and propose a social and cultural reflection on the position of the magazine through the texts written by Marinette about the transformations in the fashion industry during the years of the First War, as well as its resonances in the behavior of women.
publishDate 2020
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2020-08-03
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
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dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1140
10.26563/dobras.v14i29.1140
url https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1140
identifier_str_mv 10.26563/dobras.v14i29.1140
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv por
language por
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1140/623
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv Copyright (c) 2020 Sílvia Maria Azevedo
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv Copyright (c) 2020 Sílvia Maria Azevedo
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; v. 14 n. 29 (2020); 122-143
2358-0003
1982-0313
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instacron_str ABEPEM
institution ABEPEM
reponame_str Revista dObra[s]
collection Revista dObra[s]
repository.name.fl_str_mv Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)
repository.mail.fl_str_mv dobras.abepem@gmail.com
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