“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s)
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Data de Publicação: | 2019 |
Outros Autores: | |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista dObra[s] |
Texto Completo: | https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/986 |
Resumo: | In the 1970s, connections between the counterculture and the feminist and gay movements resulted in tensions in traditional models of femininity and masculinity. Such behavioral changes reverberated both in the costumes of pop culture artists and everyday garments. Using images of an editorial published in 1973 by Pop, the first magazine aimed at young people in Brazil, this paper discusses from a gender perspective how the use of fashion reiterated and regulated, but also questioned and widened the limits for body-building. To this end, the discussion, which dialogues with other publications of the referred time, is based above all on the articulation between the areas of Gender Studies and Fashion History. We understand that fashion is not neutral, but a cultural practice, being produced according to particular worldviews which may reinforce or contest social inequalities. Our analysis indicates that the fashion conveyed by Pop worked to some extent as a material strategy of tensioning social conservatism, by refuting normative gender patterns and producing more libertarian models of femininity and masculinity. |
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“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s)Juventude “transada”: tensionamentos das normativas de gênero na moda promovida pela revista Pop (anos 1970)Fashion. Genre. Pop magazine. 1970s.Moda. Gênero. Revista Pop. Anos 1970.In the 1970s, connections between the counterculture and the feminist and gay movements resulted in tensions in traditional models of femininity and masculinity. Such behavioral changes reverberated both in the costumes of pop culture artists and everyday garments. Using images of an editorial published in 1973 by Pop, the first magazine aimed at young people in Brazil, this paper discusses from a gender perspective how the use of fashion reiterated and regulated, but also questioned and widened the limits for body-building. To this end, the discussion, which dialogues with other publications of the referred time, is based above all on the articulation between the areas of Gender Studies and Fashion History. We understand that fashion is not neutral, but a cultural practice, being produced according to particular worldviews which may reinforce or contest social inequalities. Our analysis indicates that the fashion conveyed by Pop worked to some extent as a material strategy of tensioning social conservatism, by refuting normative gender patterns and producing more libertarian models of femininity and masculinity.Nos anos 1970, conexões entre a contracultura e os movimentos feminista e gay resultaram em tensionamentos dos modelos normativos de feminilidades e masculinidades. Tais mudanças comportamentais reverberaram no figurino de artistas da cultura pop assim como no vestuário do cotidiano. Sendo assim, a partir de algumas imagens de um editorial veiculado em 1973 pela Pop, primeira revista destinada ao público jovem no Brasil, discutimos, sob a ótica de gênero, como o emprego da moda reiterou e regulou, mas também questionou e ampliou, os limites para a construção dos corpos. Para tanto, a discussão, que dialoga com outros periódicos da época, apoia-se, sobretudo, na articulação entre as áreas dos Estudos de Gênero e História da Moda. Nós compreendemos que a moda não é neutra, mas sim uma prática cultural, sendo produzida segundo visões de mundo particulares, podendo reforçar ou contestar desigualdades sociais. Nossa análise indica que a moda em questão, veiculada pela Pop, funcionou, em certa medida, como uma estratégia material de tensionamento do conservadorismo social, refutando padrões tradicionais de gênero e produzindo modelos de feminilidades e masculinidades mais libertários.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2019-12-19info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/98610.26563/dobras.v12i27.986dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; v. 12 n. 27 (2019); 123-1462358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMporhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/986/587Copyright (c) 2020 Maureen Schaefer França, Marinês Ribeiro dos Santosinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessFrança, Maureen SchaeferSantos, Marinês Ribeiro dos2020-04-24T18:29:13Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/986Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2023-01-12T16:05:40.275734Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)true |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) Juventude “transada”: tensionamentos das normativas de gênero na moda promovida pela revista Pop (anos 1970) |
title |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
spellingShingle |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) França, Maureen Schaefer Fashion. Genre. Pop magazine. 1970s. Moda. Gênero. Revista Pop. Anos 1970. |
title_short |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
title_full |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
title_fullStr |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
title_full_unstemmed |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
title_sort |
“Cool” youth: tensions of gender norms in fashion promoted by Pop magazine (1970s) |
author |
França, Maureen Schaefer |
author_facet |
França, Maureen Schaefer Santos, Marinês Ribeiro dos |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Santos, Marinês Ribeiro dos |
author2_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
França, Maureen Schaefer Santos, Marinês Ribeiro dos |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Fashion. Genre. Pop magazine. 1970s. Moda. Gênero. Revista Pop. Anos 1970. |
topic |
Fashion. Genre. Pop magazine. 1970s. Moda. Gênero. Revista Pop. Anos 1970. |
description |
In the 1970s, connections between the counterculture and the feminist and gay movements resulted in tensions in traditional models of femininity and masculinity. Such behavioral changes reverberated both in the costumes of pop culture artists and everyday garments. Using images of an editorial published in 1973 by Pop, the first magazine aimed at young people in Brazil, this paper discusses from a gender perspective how the use of fashion reiterated and regulated, but also questioned and widened the limits for body-building. To this end, the discussion, which dialogues with other publications of the referred time, is based above all on the articulation between the areas of Gender Studies and Fashion History. We understand that fashion is not neutral, but a cultural practice, being produced according to particular worldviews which may reinforce or contest social inequalities. Our analysis indicates that the fashion conveyed by Pop worked to some extent as a material strategy of tensioning social conservatism, by refuting normative gender patterns and producing more libertarian models of femininity and masculinity. |
publishDate |
2019 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2019-12-19 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/986 10.26563/dobras.v12i27.986 |
url |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/986 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.26563/dobras.v12i27.986 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/986/587 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2020 Maureen Schaefer França, Marinês Ribeiro dos Santos info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2020 Maureen Schaefer França, Marinês Ribeiro dos Santos |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; v. 12 n. 27 (2019); 123-146 2358-0003 1982-0313 reponame:Revista dObra[s] instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) instacron:ABEPEM |
instname_str |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
instacron_str |
ABEPEM |
institution |
ABEPEM |
reponame_str |
Revista dObra[s] |
collection |
Revista dObra[s] |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
dobras.abepem@gmail.com |
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