Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Outros Autores: | |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista dObra[s] |
Texto Completo: | https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1432 |
Resumo: | The objective is to analyze the inclusion of fat women on the covers of Donna magazine whose theme is fashion based on intersectionality, which considers gender crossed by the categories of race, class, sexuality, age group, aesthetics and disability. The corpus consists of ten Donna covers published in 27 years. As main findings are the fact that there is also, in the universe of representation of fat women, obedience to an aesthetic pattern, reproducing what is already naturalized in the universe of thin women: fat women are white, young, with smaller bodies. Thinking about a place of speech is essential to understand the space authorized by the magazine for fat women to occupy and what they are allowed to talk about. The analyzes reveal that in 80% of the covers, the place of speech of a fat woman implied the way in which she was portrayed as a reason for her presence, that is, the fat woman was due to the fact of being fat and was related to fashion in three main aspects: (a) specific fashion rules for their bodies, guiding what can and cannot be used; (b) the plus size fashion market, when there is a breach of previous rules related to traditional fashion and a celebration of the fat woman in fashion and, finally, (c) themes related to self-acceptance and self-love, not to mention plus size fashion - there is also the breaking of rules, but the centrality is not the fat nor the fashion, the latter appears as an important aid in the process of self-esteem. |
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Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazineSubalternas e marginalizadas: as mulheres gordas e a moda nas capas da revista DonnaFat womenDonna magazinePlus size fashionIntersectionalityPlace of speechMulheres gordasRevista DonnaModa plus sizeInterseccionalidadeLugar de falaThe objective is to analyze the inclusion of fat women on the covers of Donna magazine whose theme is fashion based on intersectionality, which considers gender crossed by the categories of race, class, sexuality, age group, aesthetics and disability. The corpus consists of ten Donna covers published in 27 years. As main findings are the fact that there is also, in the universe of representation of fat women, obedience to an aesthetic pattern, reproducing what is already naturalized in the universe of thin women: fat women are white, young, with smaller bodies. Thinking about a place of speech is essential to understand the space authorized by the magazine for fat women to occupy and what they are allowed to talk about. The analyzes reveal that in 80% of the covers, the place of speech of a fat woman implied the way in which she was portrayed as a reason for her presence, that is, the fat woman was due to the fact of being fat and was related to fashion in three main aspects: (a) specific fashion rules for their bodies, guiding what can and cannot be used; (b) the plus size fashion market, when there is a breach of previous rules related to traditional fashion and a celebration of the fat woman in fashion and, finally, (c) themes related to self-acceptance and self-love, not to mention plus size fashion - there is also the breaking of rules, but the centrality is not the fat nor the fashion, the latter appears as an important aid in the process of self-esteem.O objetivo é analisar a inclusão das mulheres gordas nas capas da revista Donna, cuja temática é a moda a partir da interseccionalidade, que pensa gênero atravessado pelas categorias de raça, classe, sexualidade, faixa etária, estética e deficiência. O corpus é formado por dez capas de Donna publicadas em vinte e sete anos. Como principais constatações estão o fato de que há, também, no universo de representação das mulheres gordas, a obediência a um padrão estético, reproduzindo o que já é naturalizado no universo das mulheres magras: as gordas são brancas, jovens, com corpos menores. Pensar lugar de fala é imprescindível para compreender o espaço autorizado pela revista para que as gordas ocupem e sobre o que é permitido que falem. As análises revelam que, em 80% das capas, o lugar de fala de mulher gorda implicou a maneira com que ela foi retratada sendo motivo para sua presença, ou seja, a mulher gorda estava pelo fato de ser gorda e foi relacionada à moda em três aspectos principais: (a) regras de moda específicas para seus corpos, orientando sobre o que se pode ou não usar; (b) mercado de moda plus size, quando há a quebra de regras anteriores relacionadas à moda tradicional e uma celebração das mulheres gordas na moda; (c) por fim, temáticas relacionadas à autoaceitação e amor-próprio, sem mencionar moda plus size, há também a quebra de regras; porém, a centralidade não são as gordas nem a moda, esta última aparece como auxiliar importante no processo de autoestima.Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem2021-11-30info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/143210.26563/dobras.i33.1432dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 33 (2021); 111-1342358-00031982-0313reponame:Revista dObra[s]instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)instacron:ABEPEMporhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1432/724https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessPilger, Caroline RovedaGruszynski, Ana2021-11-30T20:32:26Zoai:ojs.dobras.emnuvens.com.br:article/1432Revistahttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/indexONGhttps://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/oaidobras.abepem@gmail.com2358-00031982-0313opendoar:2023-01-12T16:05:47.554824Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem)true |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine Subalternas e marginalizadas: as mulheres gordas e a moda nas capas da revista Donna |
title |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
spellingShingle |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine Pilger, Caroline Roveda Fat women Donna magazine Plus size fashion Intersectionality Place of speech Mulheres gordas Revista Donna Moda plus size Interseccionalidade Lugar de fala |
title_short |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
title_full |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
title_fullStr |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
title_full_unstemmed |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
title_sort |
Subaltern and marginalized: fat women and fashion on the covers of Donna magazine |
author |
Pilger, Caroline Roveda |
author_facet |
Pilger, Caroline Roveda Gruszynski, Ana |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Gruszynski, Ana |
author2_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Pilger, Caroline Roveda Gruszynski, Ana |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Fat women Donna magazine Plus size fashion Intersectionality Place of speech Mulheres gordas Revista Donna Moda plus size Interseccionalidade Lugar de fala |
topic |
Fat women Donna magazine Plus size fashion Intersectionality Place of speech Mulheres gordas Revista Donna Moda plus size Interseccionalidade Lugar de fala |
description |
The objective is to analyze the inclusion of fat women on the covers of Donna magazine whose theme is fashion based on intersectionality, which considers gender crossed by the categories of race, class, sexuality, age group, aesthetics and disability. The corpus consists of ten Donna covers published in 27 years. As main findings are the fact that there is also, in the universe of representation of fat women, obedience to an aesthetic pattern, reproducing what is already naturalized in the universe of thin women: fat women are white, young, with smaller bodies. Thinking about a place of speech is essential to understand the space authorized by the magazine for fat women to occupy and what they are allowed to talk about. The analyzes reveal that in 80% of the covers, the place of speech of a fat woman implied the way in which she was portrayed as a reason for her presence, that is, the fat woman was due to the fact of being fat and was related to fashion in three main aspects: (a) specific fashion rules for their bodies, guiding what can and cannot be used; (b) the plus size fashion market, when there is a breach of previous rules related to traditional fashion and a celebration of the fat woman in fashion and, finally, (c) themes related to self-acceptance and self-love, not to mention plus size fashion - there is also the breaking of rules, but the centrality is not the fat nor the fashion, the latter appears as an important aid in the process of self-esteem. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021-11-30 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1432 10.26563/dobras.i33.1432 |
url |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1432 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.26563/dobras.i33.1432 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1432/724 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda; n. 33 (2021); 111-134 2358-0003 1982-0313 reponame:Revista dObra[s] instname:Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) instacron:ABEPEM |
instname_str |
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
instacron_str |
ABEPEM |
institution |
ABEPEM |
reponame_str |
Revista dObra[s] |
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Revista dObra[s] |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista dObra[s] - Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda (Abepem) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
dobras.abepem@gmail.com |
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