Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: RAMOS, Regina Barbosa
Data de Publicação: 2019
Tipo de documento: Tese
Idioma: por
Título da fonte: Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações do ANHEMBI
Texto Completo: http://sitios.anhembi.br/tedesimplificado/handle/TEDE/1777
Resumo: This thesis is built around textile artifacts that had their expected use deviated and started to be used as medium: of resistance, activism or activation. As artifacts of resistance were adopted objects that were deviated from their initial use in a certain way, so they became the symbol of a cause. The approach to textile activism happens from both artifacts and actions. We take the yarnbombing as intervention that provides positioning and the public textile production as the conformation of an area for dialogue. As we speak of activation by Fashion Design, we guide our reading through the collective sustainable production, re-thinking the means to build artifacts, making processes more transparent and suggesting to the consumer to necessarily restructure contemporary economic relations with the general idea of consumption. Such deviations of use are approached from the adoption of three conceptual models, borrowed by us from the visual arts ( Mauricio Ianês’ area of Dialogue and Hundertwasser’s 5 Skins of the Human Being) and from literature (Amos Oz’s better ideas) that help us to design practical procedures for the development of projects in Fashion Design that can be collaborative, co-creative and developed in a collective, and in which the designer can recognize him or herself as a materializer of modes of existence, engaged in processes and projects that produce, in addition to objects, areas in which it is possible to dialogue and, thus, to design an ethical and sustainable environment for their personal, professional and community existence. Finally, we present the experience of LabModAR, a collective initiative based on dialogue and experimentation, coordinated by this author, which aims to exercise ethical and dialogic procedures in Fashion Design through its projects
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spelling PRADO, Gilberto dos Santoshttp://lattes.cnpq.br/6055293234902956RAMOS, Regina Barbosa2020-05-22T21:40:45Z2019-05-15RAMOS, Regina Barbosa. Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação. 2019. 212 f. Tese (Programa de Pós-Graduação Doutorado em Design) - Universidade Anhembi Morumbi, São Paulo.http://sitios.anhembi.br/tedesimplificado/handle/TEDE/1777This thesis is built around textile artifacts that had their expected use deviated and started to be used as medium: of resistance, activism or activation. As artifacts of resistance were adopted objects that were deviated from their initial use in a certain way, so they became the symbol of a cause. The approach to textile activism happens from both artifacts and actions. We take the yarnbombing as intervention that provides positioning and the public textile production as the conformation of an area for dialogue. As we speak of activation by Fashion Design, we guide our reading through the collective sustainable production, re-thinking the means to build artifacts, making processes more transparent and suggesting to the consumer to necessarily restructure contemporary economic relations with the general idea of consumption. Such deviations of use are approached from the adoption of three conceptual models, borrowed by us from the visual arts ( Mauricio Ianês’ area of Dialogue and Hundertwasser’s 5 Skins of the Human Being) and from literature (Amos Oz’s better ideas) that help us to design practical procedures for the development of projects in Fashion Design that can be collaborative, co-creative and developed in a collective, and in which the designer can recognize him or herself as a materializer of modes of existence, engaged in processes and projects that produce, in addition to objects, areas in which it is possible to dialogue and, thus, to design an ethical and sustainable environment for their personal, professional and community existence. Finally, we present the experience of LabModAR, a collective initiative based on dialogue and experimentation, coordinated by this author, which aims to exercise ethical and dialogic procedures in Fashion Design through its projectsEssa tese se constrói no entorno dos artefatos têxteis desviados da sua utilidade esperada e usados como meio: de resistência, ativismo ou ativação. Para artefatos de resistência são adotados objetos que se desviam de tal modo de seu uso inicial que se tornam símbolo da sua causa. O ativismo têxtil é abordado tanto a partir dos artefatos quanto pela ação. Abordamos o yarnbombing como intervenção para tomada de posição e a produção têxtil em público como formação de uma área de diálogo. Quanto à ativação pelo Design de Moda, orientamos nossa leitura pela produção coletiva, sustentável, que repensa os meios de produzir artefatos, tornando transparentes os processos e sugerindo ao consumidor uma necessária reestruturação econômica contemporânea que perpassa as relações com o consumo de modo geral. Tais desvios de uso são abordados a partir da adoção de três modelos conceituais, tomados de empréstimo das artes visuais (a área de Diálogo de Maurício Ianês e as 5 Peles do Homem de Hundertwasser) e da literatura (as ideias melhores de Amós Oz) que nos auxiliam a desenhar procedimentos práticos para o desenvolvimento de projetos em Design de Moda que possam ser colaborativos, cocriativos e desenvolvidos em coletivo, e em que o designer possa reconhecer a si como materializador de modos de existência, engajado em processos e projetos que produzam, além de objetos, áreas em que seja possível dialogar e, assim, projetar um ambiente ético e sustentável para sua existência pessoal, profissional e em comunidade. Por fim, apresentamos a experiência do LabModAR, iniciativa coletiva e fundamentada no diálogo e na experimentação, coordenada por esta autora, em que se visa exercitar procedimentos éticos e dialógicos em Design de Moda por meio dos projetos que encampa.Submitted by Patricia Figuti Venturini (pfiguti@anhembi.br) on 2019-12-04T19:07:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Regina Barbosa Ramos.pdf: 4702833 bytes, checksum: 2e8572d0a1a2f18b7e6138ea160234ea (MD5)Approved for entry into archive by Patricia Figuti Venturini (pfiguti@anhembi.br) on 2020-05-22T21:29:38Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Regina Barbosa Ramos.pdf: 4702833 bytes, checksum: 2e8572d0a1a2f18b7e6138ea160234ea (MD5)Approved for entry into archive by Patricia Figuti Venturini (pfiguti@anhembi.br) on 2020-05-22T21:30:36Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Regina Barbosa Ramos.pdf: 4702833 bytes, checksum: 2e8572d0a1a2f18b7e6138ea160234ea (MD5)Made available in DSpace on 2020-05-22T21:40:45Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Regina Barbosa Ramos.pdf: 4702833 bytes, checksum: 2e8572d0a1a2f18b7e6138ea160234ea (MD5) Previous issue date: 2019-05-15Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPESapplication/pdfporUniversidade Anhembi MorumbiPrograma de Pós-Graduação Doutorado em DesignUAMBrasilUniversidade Anhembi Morumbi::Diretoria de Pesquisa e Pós-graduação Stricto SensuDesign; Design de Moda; Resistência; Ativismo; Ativação; Diálogo.Design; Fashion Design; Resistance; Activism; Activation; Dialogue.CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADASProcedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativaçãoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis-12303619301067730956006006006003930158860712739524-19880619442701333922075167498588264571info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações do ANHEMBIinstname:Universidade Anhembi Morumbiinstacron:ANHEMBIORIGINALRegina Barbosa Ramos.pdfRegina Barbosa Ramos.pdfapplication/pdf4702833http://D1-ADM-SIT-01:8080/solr/oai/bitstream/TEDE/1777/2/Regina+Barbosa+Ramos.pdf2e8572d0a1a2f18b7e6138ea160234eaMD52LICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; charset=utf-82165http://D1-ADM-SIT-01:8080/solr/oai/bitstream/TEDE/1777/1/license.txtbd3efa91386c1718a7f26a329fdcb468MD51TEDE/1777oai:sitios.anhembi.br:TEDE/17772020-05-22 18:40:45.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http://sitios.anhembi.br/oai/requestopendoar:null2020-06-06 09:54:20.401Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações do ANHEMBI - Universidade Anhembi Morumbifalse
dc.title.por.fl_str_mv Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
title Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
spellingShingle Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
RAMOS, Regina Barbosa
Design; Design de Moda; Resistência; Ativismo; Ativação; Diálogo.
Design; Fashion Design; Resistance; Activism; Activation; Dialogue.
CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS
title_short Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
title_full Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
title_fullStr Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
title_full_unstemmed Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
title_sort Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação
author RAMOS, Regina Barbosa
author_facet RAMOS, Regina Barbosa
author_role author
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv PRADO, Gilberto dos Santos
dc.contributor.advisor1Lattes.fl_str_mv http://lattes.cnpq.br/6055293234902956
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv RAMOS, Regina Barbosa
contributor_str_mv PRADO, Gilberto dos Santos
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Design; Design de Moda; Resistência; Ativismo; Ativação; Diálogo.
topic Design; Design de Moda; Resistência; Ativismo; Ativação; Diálogo.
Design; Fashion Design; Resistance; Activism; Activation; Dialogue.
CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS
dc.subject.eng.fl_str_mv Design; Fashion Design; Resistance; Activism; Activation; Dialogue.
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS
dc.description.sponsorship.fl_txt_mv Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES
dc.description.abstract.eng.fl_txt_mv This thesis is built around textile artifacts that had their expected use deviated and started to be used as medium: of resistance, activism or activation. As artifacts of resistance were adopted objects that were deviated from their initial use in a certain way, so they became the symbol of a cause. The approach to textile activism happens from both artifacts and actions. We take the yarnbombing as intervention that provides positioning and the public textile production as the conformation of an area for dialogue. As we speak of activation by Fashion Design, we guide our reading through the collective sustainable production, re-thinking the means to build artifacts, making processes more transparent and suggesting to the consumer to necessarily restructure contemporary economic relations with the general idea of consumption. Such deviations of use are approached from the adoption of three conceptual models, borrowed by us from the visual arts ( Mauricio Ianês’ area of Dialogue and Hundertwasser’s 5 Skins of the Human Being) and from literature (Amos Oz’s better ideas) that help us to design practical procedures for the development of projects in Fashion Design that can be collaborative, co-creative and developed in a collective, and in which the designer can recognize him or herself as a materializer of modes of existence, engaged in processes and projects that produce, in addition to objects, areas in which it is possible to dialogue and, thus, to design an ethical and sustainable environment for their personal, professional and community existence. Finally, we present the experience of LabModAR, a collective initiative based on dialogue and experimentation, coordinated by this author, which aims to exercise ethical and dialogic procedures in Fashion Design through its projects
dc.description.abstract.por.fl_txt_mv Essa tese se constrói no entorno dos artefatos têxteis desviados da sua utilidade esperada e usados como meio: de resistência, ativismo ou ativação. Para artefatos de resistência são adotados objetos que se desviam de tal modo de seu uso inicial que se tornam símbolo da sua causa. O ativismo têxtil é abordado tanto a partir dos artefatos quanto pela ação. Abordamos o yarnbombing como intervenção para tomada de posição e a produção têxtil em público como formação de uma área de diálogo. Quanto à ativação pelo Design de Moda, orientamos nossa leitura pela produção coletiva, sustentável, que repensa os meios de produzir artefatos, tornando transparentes os processos e sugerindo ao consumidor uma necessária reestruturação econômica contemporânea que perpassa as relações com o consumo de modo geral. Tais desvios de uso são abordados a partir da adoção de três modelos conceituais, tomados de empréstimo das artes visuais (a área de Diálogo de Maurício Ianês e as 5 Peles do Homem de Hundertwasser) e da literatura (as ideias melhores de Amós Oz) que nos auxiliam a desenhar procedimentos práticos para o desenvolvimento de projetos em Design de Moda que possam ser colaborativos, cocriativos e desenvolvidos em coletivo, e em que o designer possa reconhecer a si como materializador de modos de existência, engajado em processos e projetos que produzam, além de objetos, áreas em que seja possível dialogar e, assim, projetar um ambiente ético e sustentável para sua existência pessoal, profissional e em comunidade. Por fim, apresentamos a experiência do LabModAR, iniciativa coletiva e fundamentada no diálogo e na experimentação, coordenada por esta autora, em que se visa exercitar procedimentos éticos e dialógicos em Design de Moda por meio dos projetos que encampa.
description This thesis is built around textile artifacts that had their expected use deviated and started to be used as medium: of resistance, activism or activation. As artifacts of resistance were adopted objects that were deviated from their initial use in a certain way, so they became the symbol of a cause. The approach to textile activism happens from both artifacts and actions. We take the yarnbombing as intervention that provides positioning and the public textile production as the conformation of an area for dialogue. As we speak of activation by Fashion Design, we guide our reading through the collective sustainable production, re-thinking the means to build artifacts, making processes more transparent and suggesting to the consumer to necessarily restructure contemporary economic relations with the general idea of consumption. Such deviations of use are approached from the adoption of three conceptual models, borrowed by us from the visual arts ( Mauricio Ianês’ area of Dialogue and Hundertwasser’s 5 Skins of the Human Being) and from literature (Amos Oz’s better ideas) that help us to design practical procedures for the development of projects in Fashion Design that can be collaborative, co-creative and developed in a collective, and in which the designer can recognize him or herself as a materializer of modes of existence, engaged in processes and projects that produce, in addition to objects, areas in which it is possible to dialogue and, thus, to design an ethical and sustainable environment for their personal, professional and community existence. Finally, we present the experience of LabModAR, a collective initiative based on dialogue and experimentation, coordinated by this author, which aims to exercise ethical and dialogic procedures in Fashion Design through its projects
publishDate 2019
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv 2019-05-15
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv 2020-05-22T21:40:45Z
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dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://sitios.anhembi.br/tedesimplificado/handle/TEDE/1777
identifier_str_mv RAMOS, Regina Barbosa. Procedimentos coletivos em design de moda e têxteis: resistência, ativismo e ativação. 2019. 212 f. Tese (Programa de Pós-Graduação Doutorado em Design) - Universidade Anhembi Morumbi, São Paulo.
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