Evaluation olf a new potencial cosmetic ingredient: In-vitro and ex-vivo evaluation of Salicornia ramosissima

• Autor(a) principal: Correia, Ana Celeste Soares
• Data de Publicação: 2022
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Idioma: eng
• Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
• Texto Completo: http://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/21534
• topic: Salicornia ramosissima; Subcritical-water extraction; Cosmetic ingredients; Eco-friendly; In-vitro validation

The cosmetic industry has been continuously growing worldwide, being one of the biggest and successful industries. In recent times, consumers have been more aware of cosmetics origin and production processes as well as their ecological implications and safety. Since consumers correlate botanicals with safeness, these ingredientes began to constitute desirable compounds over synthetic ones for cosmetic formulations. Salicornia ramosíssima is a halophyte plant widely distributed. Despite its human consumption, haliphytes remain under valorized regarding its bioactive composition, being rich in antioxidants and lipid components. This study aims to extract and validate anew active ingrediente from S. ramosíssima throught in-vitro assays., to highlight its potential use in skin formulations. The halophyte’s extracts were obtained by subcritical-water extraction (SWE) at diferente temperatures (110, 120, 140, 160 and 180 0c) and the antioxidante and radical scavenging activitis as well as the phenolic profile were screened. The sample extracted at 180 0c presented the highest phenolic contente (1739.28 mg/100g of dry weight (dw)), along with phenolic acid predominance (1054.77 mg/100g dw). Despite not being eficiente in the sequestration of radical ABTS+, this extract was the only that reasonably sequester the DPPH (IC50=824.57 µg/mL). The scavenging capacity of superoxide (02-) and hypochlorous acid (HOCI) were also considerable (respectively, IC50=158.87 µg/ml and IC50=5.80 µg/ml). The cell viability assays (Through MTT) on keratinocytes and fibroblastos showed that the absence of negative effects on keratinocytes viability slight decreased. Regardind the ex-vivo assays performd in Franz cells coupled to human skin, the permeation of rutin, quercetin and syringic acid at 24 hours was 11, 20 and 11%, respectively. In what concerns to elastase, an IC50 of 146.9 mg/mL was determined, while the IC50 calculated for hyaluronidase was 0.8580mg/mL. The results obtained support the bioactivity os S. ramosíssima and its possible use as a cosmetic ingredient.