From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Outros Autores: | , , , , , , , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/18063 |
Resumo: | Sustainability arises as a challenge in the last decades and the cosmetic field is not an exception. The search for new cosmetic active principles extracted from food byproducts through eco-innovative technologies has emerged as a novel concept. However, the European Regulation is very restrictive and different assays should be performed to guarantee the products' efficacy and safety. Considering a multidisciplinary approach, this paper aims to compare chestnut shell extracts prepared by three different green techniques – Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) – regarding antimicrobial activity, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory activities, in-vitro cytotoxicity on dermal cells (HaCaT and HFF-1) and skin permeation (using Franz cells coupled to human skin). The best extract was tested on skin and ocular 3D models and through an in-vivo patch test to evaluate its irritancy and safety. The results demonstrated the antimicrobial properties of the extracts (particularly against Staphylococcus aureus) as well as the capacity to inhibit the hyaluronidase (IC50 = 0.76–54.36 mg/mL) and elastase (33.56–82.70% at 0.4 mg/mL) activities. Regarding in-vitro cell assays, UAE and SWE extracts revealed the best outcomes. Between 0.1 and 100 μg/mL, none of the extracts conducted to a decrease of cell viability in both cell lines (HaCaT and HFF-1). The ex-vivo assay proved that SWE extract led to a higher polyphenol's permeation (1061.6 μg/g dw), being selected for further assays. Ellagic acid was the major polyphenol that permeated the human skin (732.1–847.0 μg/g dw). The 3D skin and ocular models evidenced absence of irritation by SWE extract, without decreasing cell viability and releasing IL-1α. Finally, an in-vivo patch test confirmed the absence of irritation in humans based on the acute irritation index of 0.50 achieved 24 h after the patch removal. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that validated by in-vitro and in-vivo assays, and in accordance with the European Regulation 1223/2009, a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells. |
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From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells3D skin and ocular modelsEpiskinSkinEthic HCEPatch testAntioxidantsSustainability arises as a challenge in the last decades and the cosmetic field is not an exception. The search for new cosmetic active principles extracted from food byproducts through eco-innovative technologies has emerged as a novel concept. However, the European Regulation is very restrictive and different assays should be performed to guarantee the products' efficacy and safety. Considering a multidisciplinary approach, this paper aims to compare chestnut shell extracts prepared by three different green techniques – Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) – regarding antimicrobial activity, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory activities, in-vitro cytotoxicity on dermal cells (HaCaT and HFF-1) and skin permeation (using Franz cells coupled to human skin). The best extract was tested on skin and ocular 3D models and through an in-vivo patch test to evaluate its irritancy and safety. The results demonstrated the antimicrobial properties of the extracts (particularly against Staphylococcus aureus) as well as the capacity to inhibit the hyaluronidase (IC50 = 0.76–54.36 mg/mL) and elastase (33.56–82.70% at 0.4 mg/mL) activities. Regarding in-vitro cell assays, UAE and SWE extracts revealed the best outcomes. Between 0.1 and 100 μg/mL, none of the extracts conducted to a decrease of cell viability in both cell lines (HaCaT and HFF-1). The ex-vivo assay proved that SWE extract led to a higher polyphenol's permeation (1061.6 μg/g dw), being selected for further assays. Ellagic acid was the major polyphenol that permeated the human skin (732.1–847.0 μg/g dw). The 3D skin and ocular models evidenced absence of irritation by SWE extract, without decreasing cell viability and releasing IL-1α. Finally, an in-vivo patch test confirmed the absence of irritation in humans based on the acute irritation index of 0.50 achieved 24 h after the patch removal. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that validated by in-vitro and in-vivo assays, and in accordance with the European Regulation 1223/2009, a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells.The authors' kindly thanks to Sortegel (Sortes, Portugal) for the samples. This research was funded by FCT/MCTES through national funds (UIDB/50006/2020) and project PTDC/ASP-AGR/29277/2017 - Castanea sativa shells as a new source of active ingredients for Functional Food and Cosmetic applications: a sustainable approach, financially supported by national funds by FCT/MCTES and co-supported by Fundo Europeu de Desenvolvimento Regional (FEDER) throughout COMPETE 2020 - Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI-01-0145-FEDER-029277). This work was also supported by Project UIDB/04033/2020 (CITAB-Center for the Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences). Diana Pinto (SFRH/BD/144534/2019) is grateful for the PhD grant financed by FCT/MCTES and POPH-QREN and supported by funds from UE and Fundo Social Europeu (FSE) through Programa Operacional Regional Norte. Francisca Rodrigues is thankful for her contract (CEECIND/01886/2020) financed by FCT/MCTES—CEEC Individual 2020 Program Contract.ElsevierRepositório Científico do Instituto Politécnico do PortoPinto, Dianade la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, MaríaGarcia, JulianaSaavedra, Maria JoséFreitas, VitorCosta, PauloSarmento, BrunoDelerue-Matos, CristinaRodrigues, Francisca20212100-01-01T00:00:00Z2021-01-01T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/18063eng10.1016/j.susmat.2021.e00309metadata only accessinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2023-03-13T13:09:19Zoai:recipp.ipp.pt:10400.22/18063Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-19T17:37:37.952265Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
title |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
spellingShingle |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells Pinto, Diana 3D skin and ocular models Episkin SkinEthic HCE Patch test Antioxidants |
title_short |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
title_full |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
title_fullStr |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
title_full_unstemmed |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
title_sort |
From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells |
author |
Pinto, Diana |
author_facet |
Pinto, Diana de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, María Garcia, Juliana Saavedra, Maria José Freitas, Vitor Costa, Paulo Sarmento, Bruno Delerue-Matos, Cristina Rodrigues, Francisca |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, María Garcia, Juliana Saavedra, Maria José Freitas, Vitor Costa, Paulo Sarmento, Bruno Delerue-Matos, Cristina Rodrigues, Francisca |
author2_role |
author author author author author author author author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Repositório Científico do Instituto Politécnico do Porto |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Pinto, Diana de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, María Garcia, Juliana Saavedra, Maria José Freitas, Vitor Costa, Paulo Sarmento, Bruno Delerue-Matos, Cristina Rodrigues, Francisca |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
3D skin and ocular models Episkin SkinEthic HCE Patch test Antioxidants |
topic |
3D skin and ocular models Episkin SkinEthic HCE Patch test Antioxidants |
description |
Sustainability arises as a challenge in the last decades and the cosmetic field is not an exception. The search for new cosmetic active principles extracted from food byproducts through eco-innovative technologies has emerged as a novel concept. However, the European Regulation is very restrictive and different assays should be performed to guarantee the products' efficacy and safety. Considering a multidisciplinary approach, this paper aims to compare chestnut shell extracts prepared by three different green techniques – Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) – regarding antimicrobial activity, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory activities, in-vitro cytotoxicity on dermal cells (HaCaT and HFF-1) and skin permeation (using Franz cells coupled to human skin). The best extract was tested on skin and ocular 3D models and through an in-vivo patch test to evaluate its irritancy and safety. The results demonstrated the antimicrobial properties of the extracts (particularly against Staphylococcus aureus) as well as the capacity to inhibit the hyaluronidase (IC50 = 0.76–54.36 mg/mL) and elastase (33.56–82.70% at 0.4 mg/mL) activities. Regarding in-vitro cell assays, UAE and SWE extracts revealed the best outcomes. Between 0.1 and 100 μg/mL, none of the extracts conducted to a decrease of cell viability in both cell lines (HaCaT and HFF-1). The ex-vivo assay proved that SWE extract led to a higher polyphenol's permeation (1061.6 μg/g dw), being selected for further assays. Ellagic acid was the major polyphenol that permeated the human skin (732.1–847.0 μg/g dw). The 3D skin and ocular models evidenced absence of irritation by SWE extract, without decreasing cell viability and releasing IL-1α. Finally, an in-vivo patch test confirmed the absence of irritation in humans based on the acute irritation index of 0.50 achieved 24 h after the patch removal. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that validated by in-vitro and in-vivo assays, and in accordance with the European Regulation 1223/2009, a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021 2021-01-01T00:00:00Z 2100-01-01T00:00:00Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/18063 |
url |
http://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/18063 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
10.1016/j.susmat.2021.e00309 |
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metadata only access info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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metadata only access |
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openAccess |
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application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Elsevier |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Elsevier |
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Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
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Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
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Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
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Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
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