Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Bertin, X.
Data de Publicação: 2015
Outros Autores: Fortunato, A. B., Dodet, G.
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
Texto Completo: http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1007193
Resumo: This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the “bulldozer effect” due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role.
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spelling Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inletsTidal inletsWave-induced processesWave blockingInfragravityÓbidos lagoonAlbufeira lagoonThis paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the “bulldozer effect” due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role.APRH2015-05-19T11:21:52Z2017-04-12T14:43:52Z2015-03-01T00:00:00Z2015-03info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttp://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1007193engBertin, X.Fortunato, A. B.Dodet, G.info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-01-13T03:02:14Zoai:localhost:123456789/1007193Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-20T01:38:28.859478Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
title Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
spellingShingle Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
Bertin, X.
Tidal inlets
Wave-induced processes
Wave blocking
Infragravity
Óbidos lagoon
Albufeira lagoon
title_short Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
title_full Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
title_fullStr Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
title_full_unstemmed Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
title_sort Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
author Bertin, X.
author_facet Bertin, X.
Fortunato, A. B.
Dodet, G.
author_role author
author2 Fortunato, A. B.
Dodet, G.
author2_role author
author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Bertin, X.
Fortunato, A. B.
Dodet, G.
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Tidal inlets
Wave-induced processes
Wave blocking
Infragravity
Óbidos lagoon
Albufeira lagoon
topic Tidal inlets
Wave-induced processes
Wave blocking
Infragravity
Óbidos lagoon
Albufeira lagoon
description This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the “bulldozer effect” due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role.
publishDate 2015
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2015-05-19T11:21:52Z
2015-03-01T00:00:00Z
2015-03
2017-04-12T14:43:52Z
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1007193
url http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1007193
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv APRH
publisher.none.fl_str_mv APRH
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron:RCAAP
instname_str Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron_str RCAAP
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reponame_str Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
collection Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
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