Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2015 |
Outros Autores: | , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002 |
Resumo: | This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebb-dominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the bulldozer effect due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role. |
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7160 |
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Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inletsTidal inletswave-induced processeswave blockinginfragravityÓbidos lagoonAlbufeira lagoonThis paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebb-dominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the bulldozer effect due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role.Associação Portuguesa dos Recursos Hídricos2015-03-01info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articletext/htmlhttp://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002Revista de Gestão Costeira Integrada v.15 n.1 2015reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAPenghttp://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002Bertin,XavierFortunato,André B.Dodeta,Guillaumeinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess2024-02-06T17:23:52Zoai:scielo:S1646-88722015000100002Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-20T02:29:53.260246Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
title |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
spellingShingle |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets Bertin,Xavier Tidal inlets wave-induced processes wave blocking infragravity Óbidos lagoon Albufeira lagoon |
title_short |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
title_full |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
title_fullStr |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
title_full_unstemmed |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
title_sort |
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets |
author |
Bertin,Xavier |
author_facet |
Bertin,Xavier Fortunato,André B. Dodeta,Guillaume |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Fortunato,André B. Dodeta,Guillaume |
author2_role |
author author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Bertin,Xavier Fortunato,André B. Dodeta,Guillaume |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Tidal inlets wave-induced processes wave blocking infragravity Óbidos lagoon Albufeira lagoon |
topic |
Tidal inlets wave-induced processes wave blocking infragravity Óbidos lagoon Albufeira lagoon |
description |
This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebb-dominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the bulldozer effect due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role. |
publishDate |
2015 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2015-03-01 |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002 |
url |
http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1646-88722015000100002 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
text/html |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Portuguesa dos Recursos Hídricos |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Associação Portuguesa dos Recursos Hídricos |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Gestão Costeira Integrada v.15 n.1 2015 reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
instname_str |
Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
|
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1799137365642444800 |