A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2023 |
Outros Autores: | , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
Texto Completo: | https://hdl.handle.net/1822/83066 |
Resumo: | The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out. |
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A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmeticsCosmeticsHair colourHair follicleHair pigmentationMelaninsMelanocytesMelanogenesisMelanosomesScience & TechnologyThe natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.The authors thank the support of the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT), under the scope of the strategic funding of the UIDB/04469/2020 unit, and LABBELS— Associate Laboratory in Biotechnology, Bioengineering and Microelectromechnaical Systems, LA/P/ 0029/2020. The author Bruno Fernandes also acknowledges his PhD scholarship funded by FCT (SFRH/BD/131824/2017).info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionMultidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI)Universidade do MinhoFernandes, Bruno PachecoCavaco-Paulo, ArturMatamá, Maria Teresa Gonçalves Macedo20232023-01-01T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/1822/83066engFernandes, Bruno; Cavaco-Paulo, Artur; Matamá, Teresa, A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics. Biology, 12(2), 290, 20232079-773710.3390/biology12020290290https://www.mdpi.com/journal/biologyinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2023-07-21T12:39:42Zoai:repositorium.sdum.uminho.pt:1822/83066Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-19T19:36:21.928012Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
title |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
spellingShingle |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics Fernandes, Bruno Pacheco Cosmetics Hair colour Hair follicle Hair pigmentation Melanins Melanocytes Melanogenesis Melanosomes Science & Technology |
title_short |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
title_full |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
title_fullStr |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
title_full_unstemmed |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
title_sort |
A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics |
author |
Fernandes, Bruno Pacheco |
author_facet |
Fernandes, Bruno Pacheco Cavaco-Paulo, Artur Matamá, Maria Teresa Gonçalves Macedo |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Cavaco-Paulo, Artur Matamá, Maria Teresa Gonçalves Macedo |
author2_role |
author author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Minho |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Fernandes, Bruno Pacheco Cavaco-Paulo, Artur Matamá, Maria Teresa Gonçalves Macedo |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Cosmetics Hair colour Hair follicle Hair pigmentation Melanins Melanocytes Melanogenesis Melanosomes Science & Technology |
topic |
Cosmetics Hair colour Hair follicle Hair pigmentation Melanins Melanocytes Melanogenesis Melanosomes Science & Technology |
description |
The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out. |
publishDate |
2023 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2023 2023-01-01T00:00:00Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://hdl.handle.net/1822/83066 |
url |
https://hdl.handle.net/1822/83066 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
Fernandes, Bruno; Cavaco-Paulo, Artur; Matamá, Teresa, A comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation: paving the way for innovative hair colour-changing cosmetics. Biology, 12(2), 290, 2023 2079-7737 10.3390/biology12020290 290 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/biology |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI) |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI) |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação instacron:RCAAP |
instname_str |
Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
instacron_str |
RCAAP |
institution |
RCAAP |
reponame_str |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
collection |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação |
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1799132893040082944 |