Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Santo, Mara
Data de Publicação: 2023
Outros Autores: Cardon, Dominique, Teixeira, Natércia, Nabais, Paula
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
Texto Completo: http://hdl.handle.net/10362/164177
Resumo: This research was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT/MCTES), through the funded REVIVE project “The threads of the past weaving the future: The colors from the Royal Textile Factory of Covilhã, 1764–1850” (2022.01243; https://doi.org/10.54499/2022.01243. Publisher Copyright: © 2023 by the authors.
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spelling Yellow Dyes of Historical ImportanceA Handful of Weld Yellows from the 18th-Century Recipe Books of French Master Dyers Antoine Janot and Paul Goutdyed textileslimemaster dyersReseda luteolatartarweldConservationArchaeologyMaterials Science (miscellaneous)This research was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT/MCTES), through the funded REVIVE project “The threads of the past weaving the future: The colors from the Royal Textile Factory of Covilhã, 1764–1850” (2022.01243; https://doi.org/10.54499/2022.01243. Publisher Copyright: © 2023 by the authors.Antoine Janot and Paul Gout were 18th-century master dyers who specialised in the piece-dyeing of fine wool broadcloths manufactured in Languedoc (southern France) for exportation to the Levant. They wrote treatises, similarly entitled Mémoires de Teinture (Memoirs on Dyeing), illustrated with dozens of dyed textile samples. Janot’s is dated 1744, and Gout’s is dated 1763. These books are full of extremely valuable information, which is unique to its time: the books are composed of carefully described recipes for every colour, each originally preceded by a sample swatch. The yellows of both master dyers made from weld (Reseda luteola L.), belonging to recipes described as Jaune (yellow), were reproduced. The influence of the ingredients, in both the mordanting and dyeing baths, was assessed, and the timings for both baths, which in many recipes are not clear, were tested. This provided key knowledge on the technological processes for dyeing with weld from these 18th c. French masters. The resulting reference samples were preliminarily analysed by a multi-analytical approach. Their chromatic specifications, expressed in the CIEL*a*b*, were compared with those in the Mémoires. Moreover, the influence of the recipe on the percentages of the chromophores was assessed by HPLC-DAD. It was found that the bran and tartar in the mordanting bath influence the final obtained colour and that lime is essential to obtain a bright yellow.DCR - Departamento de Conservação e RestauroLAQV@REQUIMTERUNSanto, MaraCardon, DominiqueTeixeira, NatérciaNabais, Paula2024-02-26T23:55:56Z2023-11-292023-11-29T00:00:00Zinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/article16application/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/10362/164177eng2571-9408PURE: 83898015https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage6120391info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãoinstacron:RCAAP2024-03-11T05:51:02Zoai:run.unl.pt:10362/164177Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireopendoar:71602024-03-20T04:00:04.257358Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informaçãofalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
A Handful of Weld Yellows from the 18th-Century Recipe Books of French Master Dyers Antoine Janot and Paul Gout
title Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
spellingShingle Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
Santo, Mara
dyed textiles
lime
master dyers
Reseda luteola
tartar
weld
Conservation
Archaeology
Materials Science (miscellaneous)
title_short Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
title_full Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
title_fullStr Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
title_full_unstemmed Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
title_sort Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance
author Santo, Mara
author_facet Santo, Mara
Cardon, Dominique
Teixeira, Natércia
Nabais, Paula
author_role author
author2 Cardon, Dominique
Teixeira, Natércia
Nabais, Paula
author2_role author
author
author
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro
LAQV@REQUIMTE
RUN
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Santo, Mara
Cardon, Dominique
Teixeira, Natércia
Nabais, Paula
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv dyed textiles
lime
master dyers
Reseda luteola
tartar
weld
Conservation
Archaeology
Materials Science (miscellaneous)
topic dyed textiles
lime
master dyers
Reseda luteola
tartar
weld
Conservation
Archaeology
Materials Science (miscellaneous)
description This research was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT/MCTES), through the funded REVIVE project “The threads of the past weaving the future: The colors from the Royal Textile Factory of Covilhã, 1764–1850” (2022.01243; https://doi.org/10.54499/2022.01243. Publisher Copyright: © 2023 by the authors.
publishDate 2023
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2023-11-29
2023-11-29T00:00:00Z
2024-02-26T23:55:56Z
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/10362/164177
url http://hdl.handle.net/10362/164177
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv 2571-9408
PURE: 83898015
https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage6120391
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv 16
application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
instname:Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
instacron:RCAAP
instname_str Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
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reponame_str Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
collection Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositório Científico de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (Repositórios Cientìficos) - Agência para a Sociedade do Conhecimento (UMIC) - FCT - Sociedade da Informação
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