African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
Texto Completo: | https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20132 |
Resumo: | The fabrics that come from Africa are fundamental for thinking about the aesthetics ofcandomblés of São Paulo, as their historical trajectories demonstrate a complex cultural plotthat questions the notion of pure origin, while still being used as symbols of African and Afro-Brazilian cultural identity. This work seeks to analyze the motivation for the use of fabricscoming from the Africa, within the candomblés of São Paulo, until today. The objective is tobring the history of these fabrics from the African continent, until their arrival in candomblés:the Așǫ Oke, produced by the yorùbá; the industrially Wax Print; and Nigerian-Austrian laces.We sought to identify the presence of these textiles through images of the twentieth century,and visits to temples in São Paulo, for analysis in the contemporary. What were discoveredwere distinct processes that motivated this use: Wax Print gained a load of connection withwhat is being worn on the African continent today. Așǫ Oke is related to the idea of tradition.While the laces imported from Nigeria are consumed, mixing an allusion to the clothing ofCreoles, with the contemporary import of fabrics that pass through the African continent.The greatest difficulty of the research was to find the confluences of narratives of the fabricproducers and users; in addition to the few Brazilian researchers who have analyzed thetextiles. Finally, the importance of this research lies in a new analysis of these textiles, incontext of candomblés, verifying them as an inseparable part of the aesthetics that makeup the ethos of the people of axé. |
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African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São PauloTejidos africanos y africanizados en los candomblés de São PauloTecidos africanos e africanizados nos candomblés paulistasAșǫ OkeWax PrintRenda AfricanaAșǫ OkeWax PrintAfrican LaceAșǫ OkeWax PrintEncaje AfricanoThe fabrics that come from Africa are fundamental for thinking about the aesthetics ofcandomblés of São Paulo, as their historical trajectories demonstrate a complex cultural plotthat questions the notion of pure origin, while still being used as symbols of African and Afro-Brazilian cultural identity. This work seeks to analyze the motivation for the use of fabricscoming from the Africa, within the candomblés of São Paulo, until today. The objective is tobring the history of these fabrics from the African continent, until their arrival in candomblés:the Așǫ Oke, produced by the yorùbá; the industrially Wax Print; and Nigerian-Austrian laces.We sought to identify the presence of these textiles through images of the twentieth century,and visits to temples in São Paulo, for analysis in the contemporary. What were discoveredwere distinct processes that motivated this use: Wax Print gained a load of connection withwhat is being worn on the African continent today. Așǫ Oke is related to the idea of tradition.While the laces imported from Nigeria are consumed, mixing an allusion to the clothing ofCreoles, with the contemporary import of fabrics that pass through the African continent.The greatest difficulty of the research was to find the confluences of narratives of the fabricproducers and users; in addition to the few Brazilian researchers who have analyzed thetextiles. Finally, the importance of this research lies in a new analysis of these textiles, incontext of candomblés, verifying them as an inseparable part of the aesthetics that makeup the ethos of the people of axé.Los tejidos africanos son fundamentales para pensar la estética del Candomblés de São Paulo, ya que sus trayectorias históricas demuestran una trama cultural compleja que cuestiona la noción de origen puro, sin dejar de ser utilizados como símbolos de la identidade cultural africana y afrobrasileña. Este trabajo busca analizar la motivación para el uso de tejidos del continente africano, dentro de los candomblés de São Paulo, hasta el día de hoy. El objetivo es traer la historia de estos tejidos desde el continente africano, hasta su llegada a los candomblés: el Așǫ Oke de los yorùbá; los Wax Print; y encajes nigerianoaustriacas. Buscamos identificar la presencia de estos textiles a través de imágenes del siglo XX, y visitas a terreros en São Paulo. Lo que se descubrió fueron procesos distintos que motivaron este uso: Wax Print ganó una conexión con lo que se usa en el continente africano hoy en día. Așǫ Oke está relacionado con la idea de tradición. Mientras se consumen los encajes importados de Nigeria, mezclando una alusión a la vestimenta de las criollas, co la importación contemporánea de tejidos que pasan por el continente africano. La mayor dificultad de la investigación fue encontrar las confluencias de narrativas de los productores, revendedores y usuarios de telas; además de los pocos investigadores brasileños que han analizado estos textiles. Finalmente, la importancia de esta investigación radica em un nuevo análisis de estos textiles, en el contexto de los candomblés, verificándolos como parte inseparable de las estéticas que conforman el ethos de la gente de axé.Os tecidos vindos da África são fundamentais para pensar a estética dos candomblés paulistas, pois suas trajetórias históricas demonstram uma complexa trama cultural que questiona a noção de origem pura, sem deixarem de ser utilizados como símbolos de identidades culturais africanas e afro-brasileiras. Este trabalho analisa a motivação douso de tecidos específicos vindos do continente africano pelos candomblés paulistas. O objetivo é relatar essa história e discutir, desde o continente africano até a atualidade, as presenças do tecido Așǫ Oke, produzido pelos yorùbá; do tecido estampado industrialmente Wax Print; e das rendas industriais nigerianas-austríacas. Buscou-se identificar a presença desses têxteis em imagens do século XX e em terreiros de São Paulo, para a análise no contemporâneo. Descobriu-se processos distintos que motivaram esse uso: o Wax Print ganhou uma carga de conexão com o que se veste no continente africano atualmente. Já o Așǫ Oke se relaciona com a ideia de tradição, enquanto o consumo das rendas importadas da Nigéria mescla uma alusão à indumentária das negras crioulas com a importação contemporânea de tecidos industrializados que passam pelo continente africano. A maior dificuldade da pesquisa foi encontrar as confluências de narrativas dos produtores dos tecidos, revendedores e usuários; além da escassez de pesquisadores brasileiros que se dedicaram ao tema. Por fim, a importância desta pesquisa reside em uma nova análisedesses têxteis no contexto cultural, social, artístico e religioso dos candomblés paulistas, que os denota como parte indissociável da estética que compõe o ethos do povo de axé.Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2021-10-01info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionArtigo de convidadoapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2013210.5965/25944630532021279Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 279-3002594-463010.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20132/13450Copyright (c) 2021 Aymê Okasakihttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessOkasaki, Aymê2021-10-01T16:50:30Zoai:ojs.revistas.udesc.br:article/20132Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2021-10-01T16:50:30Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo Tejidos africanos y africanizados en los candomblés de São Paulo Tecidos africanos e africanizados nos candomblés paulistas |
title |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
spellingShingle |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo Okasaki, Aymê Așǫ Oke Wax Print Renda Africana Așǫ Oke Wax Print African Lace Așǫ Oke Wax Print Encaje Africano |
title_short |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
title_full |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
title_fullStr |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
title_full_unstemmed |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
title_sort |
African and africanized tissues in candomblés of São Paulo |
author |
Okasaki, Aymê |
author_facet |
Okasaki, Aymê |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Okasaki, Aymê |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Așǫ Oke Wax Print Renda Africana Așǫ Oke Wax Print African Lace Așǫ Oke Wax Print Encaje Africano |
topic |
Așǫ Oke Wax Print Renda Africana Așǫ Oke Wax Print African Lace Așǫ Oke Wax Print Encaje Africano |
description |
The fabrics that come from Africa are fundamental for thinking about the aesthetics ofcandomblés of São Paulo, as their historical trajectories demonstrate a complex cultural plotthat questions the notion of pure origin, while still being used as symbols of African and Afro-Brazilian cultural identity. This work seeks to analyze the motivation for the use of fabricscoming from the Africa, within the candomblés of São Paulo, until today. The objective is tobring the history of these fabrics from the African continent, until their arrival in candomblés:the Așǫ Oke, produced by the yorùbá; the industrially Wax Print; and Nigerian-Austrian laces.We sought to identify the presence of these textiles through images of the twentieth century,and visits to temples in São Paulo, for analysis in the contemporary. What were discoveredwere distinct processes that motivated this use: Wax Print gained a load of connection withwhat is being worn on the African continent today. Așǫ Oke is related to the idea of tradition.While the laces imported from Nigeria are consumed, mixing an allusion to the clothing ofCreoles, with the contemporary import of fabrics that pass through the African continent.The greatest difficulty of the research was to find the confluences of narratives of the fabricproducers and users; in addition to the few Brazilian researchers who have analyzed thetextiles. Finally, the importance of this research lies in a new analysis of these textiles, incontext of candomblés, verifying them as an inseparable part of the aesthetics that makeup the ethos of the people of axé. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021-10-01 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artigo de convidado |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20132 10.5965/25944630532021279 |
url |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20132 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.5965/25944630532021279 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20132/13450 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Aymê Okasaki https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Aymê Okasaki https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 279-300 2594-4630 10.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001 reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design instname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) instacron:UDESC |
instname_str |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
instacron_str |
UDESC |
institution |
UDESC |
reponame_str |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
collection |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
reamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br |
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1797049143743479808 |