À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
Texto Completo: | https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20137 |
Resumo: | The present paper analyzes the emergence of fashion trends in Paris during the 1780s, whose self-proclaimed reference and inspiration came from the Orient. More fantasy and idealization of what the french conceived as oriental, these tendencies had little or no connection with what was used by the populations of the different localities and regions to which they referred, whether from Circasia, Turkey, China, Zion, Conchinchina or India. To this purpose, we examined the writings and illustrations of the magazines Cabinet des modes and Magasin des modes Nouvelles, along with reports in newspapers and anecdotaires from the period, in addition with memories of some well-known individuals of the late 18th century France. We do not see these trends as representations of a supposed “reality” of dress and clothing, but as objects that expose an intricate network of social exchange between the fashion sector that was being consolidated in Paris and political-diplomatic events and notions of exotic, sensual and unusual. The conclusion of the study is that the “orientalist” trends demonstrate the capacity of the Parisian fashion sector to assimilate current events and varied cultural elements into its operation. More than that, these trends emphasize the ability to use and dispose of cultural references, manipulate them for European tastes and needs and transform them into something completely new and that had little, if any, resemblance to the original inspiration and reality, even though they were widely publicized, sold and consumed as related to them. |
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À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’sÀ l’Orient: fantaisie et idealisation orientale en Paris aux anées 1780À l'Orient: fantasia e idelização oriental na Paris de 1780História da modaSéculo XVIIIOrientalismoHistoire de la mode18e siècleOrientalismeFashion History18th centuryOrientalismThe present paper analyzes the emergence of fashion trends in Paris during the 1780s, whose self-proclaimed reference and inspiration came from the Orient. More fantasy and idealization of what the french conceived as oriental, these tendencies had little or no connection with what was used by the populations of the different localities and regions to which they referred, whether from Circasia, Turkey, China, Zion, Conchinchina or India. To this purpose, we examined the writings and illustrations of the magazines Cabinet des modes and Magasin des modes Nouvelles, along with reports in newspapers and anecdotaires from the period, in addition with memories of some well-known individuals of the late 18th century France. We do not see these trends as representations of a supposed “reality” of dress and clothing, but as objects that expose an intricate network of social exchange between the fashion sector that was being consolidated in Paris and political-diplomatic events and notions of exotic, sensual and unusual. The conclusion of the study is that the “orientalist” trends demonstrate the capacity of the Parisian fashion sector to assimilate current events and varied cultural elements into its operation. More than that, these trends emphasize the ability to use and dispose of cultural references, manipulate them for European tastes and needs and transform them into something completely new and that had little, if any, resemblance to the original inspiration and reality, even though they were widely publicized, sold and consumed as related to them.Cet article analyse l’émergence des tendances de la mode aux années 1780 à Paris, dont les autoproclamées références et inspirations viennent de l’Orient. Plus fantaisie et idéalisation de ce que les Français imaginaient comme oriental que realité, ces tendances avaient peu ou aucun lien avec ce qui était utilisé par les populations des différents lieux et régions auxquels elles se référaient, soit de la Circassie, soit de la Turquie, soit de la Chine, du Sion, de la Cochinchine ou de l’Inde. Pour ce faire, nous avons examiné les écrits et illustrations des magazines Cabinet des modes et Magasin de modes nouvelles avec les rapports contenus dans les journaux et anecdotaires de l’époque, et aussi les souvenirs de personnes célèbres du 18e siècle. Nous ne voyons pas ces tendances comme des représentations d’une supposée “réalité” d’habits et vêtements, mais comme objets qui exposent un complexe réseau d’échange social entre le secteur de la mode qui a s’était consolidé à Paris, événements politico-diplomatiques et notions d’exotique, de sensuel, et d’inhabituel. La conclusion de cette étude est que telles tendances “orientalistes” démontrent la capacité du secteur de mode parisienne d’assimiler à son fonctionnement demandes de l’actualité et des éléments culturels variés. Plus que cela, ces tendances mettent en accent la capacité d’utiliser et disposer de références culturelles, les manipuler selon les goûts et les besoins européens, et les transformer en quelque chose de complètement nouveau qui avait très peu, voire aucune, ressemblance avec l’inspiration et la réalité d’origine, même si elles ont été largement diffusées, vendues et consommées comme connectées à eles.O presente artigo analisa o surgimento de tendências de moda na década de 1780 em Paris, cujas autoproclamadas referências e inspirações vinham do Oriente. Mais fantasia e idealização do que os franceses concebiam como oriental, tais tendências tinham pouco ou nenhuma conexão com o que era de fato utilizado pelas populações das diversas localidades e regiões às quais se referiam, fossem da Circássia, da Turquia, da China, do Sião, da Cochinchina ou da Índia. Para tal, examinamos os escritos e as ilustrações das revistas Cabinet des modes e Magasin des modes nouvelles, junto com reportagens contidas em jornais e anedotários do período e com memórias de alguns indivíduos célebres do século XVIII francês. Não encaramos tais tendências como representações de uma suposta “realidade” de vestimenta e de indumentária, mas sim como objetos que expõem uma intrincada rede de intercâmbio social entre o setor da moda que se consolidava em Paris, eventos político-diplomáticos e noções de exótico, de sensual e de incomum. A conclusão do estudo é que as tendências “orientalistas” demonstram a capacidade do setor da moda parisiense de assimilar demandas da atualidade e elementos culturais variados ao seu funcionamento. Mais do que isso, essas tendências enfatizam a capacidade de usar e dispor de referências culturais, manipulá-las para os gostos e necessidades europeus, transformá-las em algo completamente novo e que tinha muito pouca, ou nenhuma, semelhança com a inspiração original e com a realidade, ainda que fossem amplamente divulgadas, vendidas e consumidas como relacionado a elas. Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2021-09-08info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionArtigo de convidadoapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2013710.5965/25944630532021107Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 107 - 1272594-463010.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20137/13348Copyright (c) 2021 Felipe Goebelhttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessGoebel, Felipe2021-10-01T16:50:30Zoai:ojs.revistas.udesc.br:article/20137Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2021-10-01T16:50:30Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s À l’Orient: fantaisie et idealisation orientale en Paris aux anées 1780 À l'Orient: fantasia e idelização oriental na Paris de 1780 |
title |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
spellingShingle |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s Goebel, Felipe História da moda Século XVIII Orientalismo Histoire de la mode 18e siècle Orientalisme Fashion History 18th century Orientalism |
title_short |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
title_full |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
title_fullStr |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
title_full_unstemmed |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
title_sort |
À l’Orient: fantasy and oriental idealization in Paris in the 1780’s |
author |
Goebel, Felipe |
author_facet |
Goebel, Felipe |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Goebel, Felipe |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
História da moda Século XVIII Orientalismo Histoire de la mode 18e siècle Orientalisme Fashion History 18th century Orientalism |
topic |
História da moda Século XVIII Orientalismo Histoire de la mode 18e siècle Orientalisme Fashion History 18th century Orientalism |
description |
The present paper analyzes the emergence of fashion trends in Paris during the 1780s, whose self-proclaimed reference and inspiration came from the Orient. More fantasy and idealization of what the french conceived as oriental, these tendencies had little or no connection with what was used by the populations of the different localities and regions to which they referred, whether from Circasia, Turkey, China, Zion, Conchinchina or India. To this purpose, we examined the writings and illustrations of the magazines Cabinet des modes and Magasin des modes Nouvelles, along with reports in newspapers and anecdotaires from the period, in addition with memories of some well-known individuals of the late 18th century France. We do not see these trends as representations of a supposed “reality” of dress and clothing, but as objects that expose an intricate network of social exchange between the fashion sector that was being consolidated in Paris and political-diplomatic events and notions of exotic, sensual and unusual. The conclusion of the study is that the “orientalist” trends demonstrate the capacity of the Parisian fashion sector to assimilate current events and varied cultural elements into its operation. More than that, these trends emphasize the ability to use and dispose of cultural references, manipulate them for European tastes and needs and transform them into something completely new and that had little, if any, resemblance to the original inspiration and reality, even though they were widely publicized, sold and consumed as related to them. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021-09-08 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artigo de convidado |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20137 10.5965/25944630532021107 |
url |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20137 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.5965/25944630532021107 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20137/13348 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Felipe Goebel https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Felipe Goebel https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 107 - 127 2594-4630 10.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001 reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design instname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) instacron:UDESC |
instname_str |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
instacron_str |
UDESC |
institution |
UDESC |
reponame_str |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
collection |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
reamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br |
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1797049143746625536 |