O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica

• Autor(a) principal: Mano, Rayane Fernandes
• Data de Publicação: 2019
• Tipo de documento: Tese
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB
• Texto Completo: https://repositorio.ufpb.br/jspui/handle/123456789/26000
• topic: Consumo de vestuário - Homossexuais; Homossexualidade; Heteronormormatividade; Queer Theory; Clothing consumption - Homosexuals; Homosexuality; Heteronormativity; Homosexualité; Consommation de vêtements; Hétéronormativité; CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::ADMINISTRACAO

Analyzed from the perspective of clothing consumption practices, human homosexuality has been predominantly discussed as a lucrative market segment. This approach is a superficial and restrictive understanding. Queer theory allows a broader conception of homosexuality from a hierarchical and categorical construction based on a set of practices and institutions that imposes heterosexuality on individuals as a standard of normality, a concept called heteronormativity. By the understanding that clothing consumption can stimulate and reinforce heteronormative patterns, as well as oppose, reject and modify them, our thesis is that clothing can represent a personal manifestation in heretonormativity. The purpose of this thesis is to analyze, from the perspective of Queer Theory, how clothing consumption is established as a positioning strategy facing heteronormativity. Given the above, we argue that (1) the conformation or not of non-binary individuals to heteronormativity is a relevant element to understand their clothing consumption behavior; that (2) non-binary individuals who transgress heteronormative patterns express their fluid sexuality and political posture through clothing consumption. Therefore, we conducted a qualitative investigation that developed in two distinct stages. The first empirical step comprised listening to the individual experiences of clothing consumption of 10 people with non-binary sexuality, using the method of in-depth interviews guided by a script of 15 questions without previous metacategorization. The interviews were analyzed through Critical Discourse Analysis. The second stage consisted of observing two retail environments of a national clothes brand, the brand's flagship store on Avenida Paulista, in São Paulo, and the one located at Shopping Boa Vista, in Recife-PE. Our results demonstrate three types of strategies regarding heteronormativity: clothing consumption as a strategy of compliance with heteronorms of the opposite sex; clothing consumption as a strategy for conforming to heteronorems for one's own sex, and clothing consumption as a strategy of nonconformity with heteronormativity. The observation step demonstrated two distinct configurations in stores. The Sao Paulo flagship is adequately committed to the proposition that the brand communicates about gender diversity, while that of Shopping Boa Vista does not present any aspects that state the brand's positioning in favor of gender fluidity. We conclude that heteronormativity deeply marks homosexuals and is intrinsically related to their dress, so that their clothes consciously or unconsciously represent the conformity or not to this regime. We therefore verified the absence of a single large segment of homosexuals. In parallel, there is a garment industry that admits engaged advertising in favor of the expression of non-binary genres, but adopts specific practices to dispel the heteronormative order in the clothing sector.