O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2019 |
Tipo de documento: | Tese |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB |
Texto Completo: | https://repositorio.ufpb.br/jspui/handle/123456789/26000 |
Resumo: | Analyzed from the perspective of clothing consumption practices, human homosexuality has been predominantly discussed as a lucrative market segment. This approach is a superficial and restrictive understanding. Queer theory allows a broader conception of homosexuality from a hierarchical and categorical construction based on a set of practices and institutions that imposes heterosexuality on individuals as a standard of normality, a concept called heteronormativity. By the understanding that clothing consumption can stimulate and reinforce heteronormative patterns, as well as oppose, reject and modify them, our thesis is that clothing can represent a personal manifestation in heretonormativity. The purpose of this thesis is to analyze, from the perspective of Queer Theory, how clothing consumption is established as a positioning strategy facing heteronormativity. Given the above, we argue that (1) the conformation or not of non-binary individuals to heteronormativity is a relevant element to understand their clothing consumption behavior; that (2) non-binary individuals who transgress heteronormative patterns express their fluid sexuality and political posture through clothing consumption. Therefore, we conducted a qualitative investigation that developed in two distinct stages. The first empirical step comprised listening to the individual experiences of clothing consumption of 10 people with non-binary sexuality, using the method of in-depth interviews guided by a script of 15 questions without previous metacategorization. The interviews were analyzed through Critical Discourse Analysis. The second stage consisted of observing two retail environments of a national clothes brand, the brand's flagship store on Avenida Paulista, in São Paulo, and the one located at Shopping Boa Vista, in Recife-PE. Our results demonstrate three types of strategies regarding heteronormativity: clothing consumption as a strategy of compliance with heteronorms of the opposite sex; clothing consumption as a strategy for conforming to heteronorems for one's own sex, and clothing consumption as a strategy of nonconformity with heteronormativity. The observation step demonstrated two distinct configurations in stores. The Sao Paulo flagship is adequately committed to the proposition that the brand communicates about gender diversity, while that of Shopping Boa Vista does not present any aspects that state the brand's positioning in favor of gender fluidity. We conclude that heteronormativity deeply marks homosexuals and is intrinsically related to their dress, so that their clothes consciously or unconsciously represent the conformity or not to this regime. We therefore verified the absence of a single large segment of homosexuals. In parallel, there is a garment industry that admits engaged advertising in favor of the expression of non-binary genres, but adopts specific practices to dispel the heteronormative order in the clothing sector. |
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O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise críticaConsumo de vestuário - HomossexuaisHomossexualidadeHeteronormormatividadeQueer TheoryClothing consumption - HomosexualsHomosexualityHeteronormativityHomosexualitéConsommation de vêtementsHétéronormativitéCNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::ADMINISTRACAOAnalyzed from the perspective of clothing consumption practices, human homosexuality has been predominantly discussed as a lucrative market segment. This approach is a superficial and restrictive understanding. Queer theory allows a broader conception of homosexuality from a hierarchical and categorical construction based on a set of practices and institutions that imposes heterosexuality on individuals as a standard of normality, a concept called heteronormativity. By the understanding that clothing consumption can stimulate and reinforce heteronormative patterns, as well as oppose, reject and modify them, our thesis is that clothing can represent a personal manifestation in heretonormativity. The purpose of this thesis is to analyze, from the perspective of Queer Theory, how clothing consumption is established as a positioning strategy facing heteronormativity. Given the above, we argue that (1) the conformation or not of non-binary individuals to heteronormativity is a relevant element to understand their clothing consumption behavior; that (2) non-binary individuals who transgress heteronormative patterns express their fluid sexuality and political posture through clothing consumption. Therefore, we conducted a qualitative investigation that developed in two distinct stages. The first empirical step comprised listening to the individual experiences of clothing consumption of 10 people with non-binary sexuality, using the method of in-depth interviews guided by a script of 15 questions without previous metacategorization. The interviews were analyzed through Critical Discourse Analysis. The second stage consisted of observing two retail environments of a national clothes brand, the brand's flagship store on Avenida Paulista, in São Paulo, and the one located at Shopping Boa Vista, in Recife-PE. Our results demonstrate three types of strategies regarding heteronormativity: clothing consumption as a strategy of compliance with heteronorms of the opposite sex; clothing consumption as a strategy for conforming to heteronorems for one's own sex, and clothing consumption as a strategy of nonconformity with heteronormativity. The observation step demonstrated two distinct configurations in stores. The Sao Paulo flagship is adequately committed to the proposition that the brand communicates about gender diversity, while that of Shopping Boa Vista does not present any aspects that state the brand's positioning in favor of gender fluidity. We conclude that heteronormativity deeply marks homosexuals and is intrinsically related to their dress, so that their clothes consciously or unconsciously represent the conformity or not to this regime. We therefore verified the absence of a single large segment of homosexuals. In parallel, there is a garment industry that admits engaged advertising in favor of the expression of non-binary genres, but adopts specific practices to dispel the heteronormative order in the clothing sector.RÉSUMÉ. L'homosexualité humaine, quando analysée du point de vue des pratiques de consommation de vêtements, a été considérée comme un segment de marché lucratif. Cette attribuition à l'homosexualité d’une relation avec des habitudes de consommation déclarées est une compréhension superficielle et restrictive. La théorie queer permet une conception plus large de l'homosexualité à partir d'une construction catégorielle hiérarchique basée sur un ensemble de pratiques et d'institutions imposant l'hétérosexualité aux individus en tant que norme de normalité, le concept de hétéronormativité. Comprenant que la consommation de vêtements peut stimuler et renforcer les modèles hétéronormatifs, ainsi que les opposer, les rejeter et les modifier, notre thèse est que les vêtements peuvent représenter une stratégie de positionnement contre l'hérétonormativité. Le but de cette thèse est d’analyser, du point de vue de la théorie Queer, comment la consommation de vêtements s’établit comme une manifestation personnel face à l’hétéronormativité. Nous affirmons que (1) la conformation ou non des individus non-binaires en hétéronormativité est un élément pertinent pour comprendre leur comportement de consommation de vêtements; que (2) les individus non-binaires qui transgressent l’hétéronormativité expriment leur sexualité fluide et leur posture politique à travers la consommation de vêtements. Nous avons faire une recherche qualitative qui s'est développée en deux étapes. Au première étape, on a écouter les expériences individuelles de consommation de vêtements de 10 personnes de sexualité non binaire, en utilisant la méthode des entretiens approfondis guidée par un script de 15 questions sans méta-catégorisation préalable. Les entretiens ont été analysés à travers l'analyse du discours critique. Au deuxième étape, on a observer deux magazins, sur Avenida Paulista, à São Paulo, et sur leShopping Boa Vista, à Recife-PE. Les résultats démontrent trois types de stratégies concernant l'hétéronormativité: la consommation de vêtements comme stratégie de conformité aux hétéronormes du sexe opposé; la consommation de vêtements comme stratégie pour se conformer aux hétérono- mèmes de son propre sexe, et la consommation de vêtements comme stratégie de non-conformité avec l'hétéronormativité. L’observation a mis en évidence deux configurations. Le magazine de São Paulo est bien engagé dans la proposition selon laquelle la marque communique sur la diversité des genres, tandis que l’outre ne présente aucun aspect indiquant le positionnement de la marque en faveur de la fluidité des genres. Nous concluons que l'hétéronormativité marque profondément les homosexuels, de sorte que leurs vêtements représentent consciemment ou inconsciemment la conformité ou non à ce régime. Nous avons vérifié l’absence d’un seul grand segment d’homosexuels. Parallèlement, il existe une industrie du vêtement qui admet la publicité engagée en faveur de l'expression de genres non binaires, mais n’adopte pas beaucoup des pratiques spécifiques pour dissiper l'ordre hétéronormatif dans le secteur de l'habillement.NenhumaA homossexualidade humana, quando analisada a partir da perspectiva das práticas de consumo de vestuário, tem sido preponderantemente discutida como um segmento de mercado lucrativo. Acreditamos que esse enfoque que se tem adotado ao atribuir à homossexualidade uma relação com hábitos consumo ostensivo consiste numa compreensão superficial e restritiva. A Teoria Queer permite uma concepção mais abrangente da homossexualidade por meio de uma construção categórica hierarquizada em um conjunto de práticas e instituições que impõe aos indivíduos a heterossexualidade como padrão de normalidade, conceito esse denominado de heteronormatividade. A partir do entendimento de que o consumo de vestuário pode estimular e reforçar padrões heteronormativos, bem como contrapô-los, recusá-los e modifica-los, a nossa tese é que a vestimenta pode representar uma manifestação pessoal frente a heretonormativade. O propósito desta tese é analisar, sob a ótica da Teoria Queer, como o consumo de vestuário se estabelece enquanto manifestação dos indivíduos não binários frente à heteronormatividade. Face ao exposto, argumentamos que (1) a conformação ou não de indivíduos não binários à heteronormatividade é um elemento relevante para se compreender o seu comportamento de consumo de vestuário; que (2) os indivíduos não binários que transgredem os padrões heteronormativos expressam sua sexualidade fluida e uma postura política através do consumo de vestuário. Realizamos, portanto, uma investigação de caráter qualitativo que se desenvolveu em duas etapas distintas. A primeira etapa empírica compreendeu na escuta das experiências individuais de consumo de vestuário de 10 pessoas com sexualidade não binárias, utilizando o método de entrevistas em profundidade guiadas por um roteiro de 15 perguntas sem metacategorização. As entrevistas foram analisadas por meio da Análise Crítica do Discurso. A segunda etapa consistiu na observação de dois ambientes de varejo de uma empresa de vestuário que atua nacionalmente: na flagship store da marca na Avenida Paulista, em São Paulo, e a outra loja, localizada no Shopping Boa Vista, em Recife-PE. Nossos resultados demonstram três tipos de estratégias frente à heteronormatividade: o consumo de vestuário como estratégia de conformidade com as heteronormas do sexo oposto; o consumo de vestuário como estratégia de conformidade com as heteronormas para o próprio sexo, e o consumo de vestuário como estratégia de inconformidade com a heteronormatividade. A etapa de observação demonstrou duas configurações distintas nas lojas. A flagship de São Paulo empenha-se adequadamente na proposição que a marca comunica a respeito da diversidade dos gêneros, enquanto a do Shopping Boa Vista não apresenta quaisquer aspectos que declarem o posicionamento da marca em favor da fluidez de gênero. Concluimos que a heteronormatividade marca profundamente os homossexuais e está intrinsecamente relacionada à sua forma de vestir, de modo que suas roupas representam, de forma consciente ou inconsciente, a conformidade ou não a este regime. Verificamos, portanto, a inexistência de um único grande segmento de homossexuais. Em paralelo, tem-se uma indústria de vestuário que admite uma publicidade engajada em favor da expressão dos gêneros não binários, mas que adota práticas pontuais relativas á ruptura da ordem heteronormativa no setor de consumo de vestuário.Universidade Federal da ParaíbaBrasilAdministraçãoPrograma de Pós-Graduação em AdministraçãoUFPBHelal, Diogo Henriquehttp://lattes.cnpq.br/5268265898312612Mano, Rayane Fernandes2023-01-26T14:50:12Z2022-11-172023-01-26T14:50:12Z2019-09-03info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesishttps://repositorio.ufpb.br/jspui/handle/123456789/26000porAttribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Brazilhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/3.0/br/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPBinstname:Universidade Federal da Paraíba (UFPB)instacron:UFPB2023-05-22T16:57:37Zoai:repositorio.ufpb.br:123456789/26000Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertaçõeshttps://repositorio.ufpb.br/PUBhttp://tede.biblioteca.ufpb.br:8080/oai/requestdiretoria@ufpb.br|| diretoria@ufpb.bropendoar:2023-05-22T16:57:37Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB - Universidade Federal da Paraíba (UFPB)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
title |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
spellingShingle |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica Mano, Rayane Fernandes Consumo de vestuário - Homossexuais Homossexualidade Heteronormormatividade Queer Theory Clothing consumption - Homosexuals Homosexuality Heteronormativity Homosexualité Consommation de vêtements Hétéronormativité CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::ADMINISTRACAO |
title_short |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
title_full |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
title_fullStr |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
title_full_unstemmed |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
title_sort |
O consumo de vestuário como manifestação individual de homossexuais frente à heteronormatividade: uma análise crítica |
author |
Mano, Rayane Fernandes |
author_facet |
Mano, Rayane Fernandes |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Helal, Diogo Henrique http://lattes.cnpq.br/5268265898312612 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Mano, Rayane Fernandes |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Consumo de vestuário - Homossexuais Homossexualidade Heteronormormatividade Queer Theory Clothing consumption - Homosexuals Homosexuality Heteronormativity Homosexualité Consommation de vêtements Hétéronormativité CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::ADMINISTRACAO |
topic |
Consumo de vestuário - Homossexuais Homossexualidade Heteronormormatividade Queer Theory Clothing consumption - Homosexuals Homosexuality Heteronormativity Homosexualité Consommation de vêtements Hétéronormativité CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::ADMINISTRACAO |
description |
Analyzed from the perspective of clothing consumption practices, human homosexuality has been predominantly discussed as a lucrative market segment. This approach is a superficial and restrictive understanding. Queer theory allows a broader conception of homosexuality from a hierarchical and categorical construction based on a set of practices and institutions that imposes heterosexuality on individuals as a standard of normality, a concept called heteronormativity. By the understanding that clothing consumption can stimulate and reinforce heteronormative patterns, as well as oppose, reject and modify them, our thesis is that clothing can represent a personal manifestation in heretonormativity. The purpose of this thesis is to analyze, from the perspective of Queer Theory, how clothing consumption is established as a positioning strategy facing heteronormativity. Given the above, we argue that (1) the conformation or not of non-binary individuals to heteronormativity is a relevant element to understand their clothing consumption behavior; that (2) non-binary individuals who transgress heteronormative patterns express their fluid sexuality and political posture through clothing consumption. Therefore, we conducted a qualitative investigation that developed in two distinct stages. The first empirical step comprised listening to the individual experiences of clothing consumption of 10 people with non-binary sexuality, using the method of in-depth interviews guided by a script of 15 questions without previous metacategorization. The interviews were analyzed through Critical Discourse Analysis. The second stage consisted of observing two retail environments of a national clothes brand, the brand's flagship store on Avenida Paulista, in São Paulo, and the one located at Shopping Boa Vista, in Recife-PE. Our results demonstrate three types of strategies regarding heteronormativity: clothing consumption as a strategy of compliance with heteronorms of the opposite sex; clothing consumption as a strategy for conforming to heteronorems for one's own sex, and clothing consumption as a strategy of nonconformity with heteronormativity. The observation step demonstrated two distinct configurations in stores. The Sao Paulo flagship is adequately committed to the proposition that the brand communicates about gender diversity, while that of Shopping Boa Vista does not present any aspects that state the brand's positioning in favor of gender fluidity. We conclude that heteronormativity deeply marks homosexuals and is intrinsically related to their dress, so that their clothes consciously or unconsciously represent the conformity or not to this regime. We therefore verified the absence of a single large segment of homosexuals. In parallel, there is a garment industry that admits engaged advertising in favor of the expression of non-binary genres, but adopts specific practices to dispel the heteronormative order in the clothing sector. |
publishDate |
2019 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2019-09-03 2022-11-17 2023-01-26T14:50:12Z 2023-01-26T14:50:12Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis |
format |
doctoralThesis |
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publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://repositorio.ufpb.br/jspui/handle/123456789/26000 |
url |
https://repositorio.ufpb.br/jspui/handle/123456789/26000 |
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por |
language |
por |
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Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Brazil http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/3.0/br/ info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Brazil http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/3.0/br/ |
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openAccess |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal da Paraíba Brasil Administração Programa de Pós-Graduação em Administração UFPB |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal da Paraíba Brasil Administração Programa de Pós-Graduação em Administração UFPB |
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reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB instname:Universidade Federal da Paraíba (UFPB) instacron:UFPB |
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Universidade Federal da Paraíba (UFPB) |
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Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB |
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Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB |
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Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFPB - Universidade Federal da Paraíba (UFPB) |
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diretoria@ufpb.br|| diretoria@ufpb.br |
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1801843003697922048 |