Nanoemulsion containing kojic dipalmitate and rosehip oil : a promising formulation to treat melasma

• Autor(a) principal: Zilles, Júlia Capp
• Data de Publicação: 2023
• Outros Autores: Duarte, Larissa Pedron, Ruaro, Thais Carine, Zimmer, Aline Rigon, Külkamp-Guerreiro, Irene Clemes, Contri, Renata Vidor
• Tipo de documento: Artigo
• Idioma: eng
• Título da fonte: Repositório Institucional da UFRGS
• Texto Completo: http://hdl.handle.net/10183/259127
• topic: Antioxidantes; Melanose : Tratamento farmacológico; Antioxidant; Kojic dipalmitate; Nanoemulsion; Rosehip oil; Tyrosinase inhibition

Melasma is a hard-to-treat hyperpigmentation disorder. Combined incorporation of kojic dipalmitate (KDP), the esterified form of kojic acid, and rosehip oil, an oil with antioxidant and skin-regenerating properties, into nanocarrier systems appears to be a suitable strategy to develop high-performance formulations. A high-energy method (Ultra-Turrax®) was used to develop nanoemulsions containing up to 2 mg/mL KDP, 5% rosehip oil, and 7.5% surfactant. Formulations were characterized regarding droplet size, size distribution, pH, density, morphology, KDP content, incorporation efficiency, and stability under different temperature conditions. A scale-up study was conducted. Skin permeation, antioxidant potential, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were assessed in vitro. Cell viability studies were also performed. Results showed that nanoemulsions containing 1 and 2 mg/mL KDP had incorporation efficiencies greater than 95%, droplet size smaller than 130 nm, suitable size distribution, zeta potential of approximately 10 mV, and good stability over 30 days of refrigerated storage. The nanoemulsion containing 1 mg/mL KDP was chosen for further evaluation because it had lower nanocrystal formation, greater scale-up feasibility and allowed KDP permeation up to the epidermis similarly than observed for 2 mg/mL KDP. This formulation (1 mg/mL KDP) showed antioxidant and depigmenting efficacy, close to that of 1 mM ascorbic acid. No cytotoxicity was observed in formulations concentrations ranging from 0.06% to 1%.