Transforma??es no campo da moda: cr?tica ?tica e est?tica

• Autor(a) principal: Berlim, Lilyan Guimar?es
• Data de Publicação: 2016
• Tipo de documento: Tese
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRRJ
• Texto Completo: https://tede.ufrrj.br/jspui/handle/jspui/2139
• topic: Consumption. Fashion; Social Criticism; Ethic. Aesthetic; Sustainability.; Consumo; Moda; Cr?tica Social; ?tica; Est?tica; Slow fashion; Fast fashion; Sustentabilidade; Sociologia; Artes

The fashion and textile industry is one of the largest business segment in the world. However, this segment has been the subject of ethics, aesthetics and environmental criticism, especially so-called "fast fashion", a high-speed production system, integrated with information technology, which manages releases, sales, inventory and manufacturing clothes, turning datasheets of garments in a finished product within points of sale in a few days. The fast fashion phemomenon settled in the fashion industry in the last decades of the twentieth century as a result of the dynamics of global capitalism in search of lower cost and reduced production, time, space, distribution and sale. The fast fashion, however, has been socially criticised as it?s based on precarious work and promoting hyper consumption which leads to quick disposal of clothing, consumption of natural resources at breakneck scale and also the standardization of the body and spread a subtle homogenization of the appearance, promoted by the fashion media. The research has mapped and analysed the relationship between fashion and social criticism, with emphasis on appearance, construction and current settings of the ethical criticism and aesthetics to fast fashion. It has also mapped and analysed some answers that the market has given to such criticism, as well as alternative proposals built by various social groups, in particular the slow fashion movement: its concept, ideas and production proposals, consumption and engagement. From the politicization of consumption and macro trends that are configured as a socio-cultural background of the fashion consumption trends, we see the various forms of expression of these criticisms and seek to understand its incorporation into the market. For this, we rely on the theoretical framework of Boltanski and Chiapello (2009), which considers the incorporation of criticism as necessary to the moral justification of capitalism and its maintenance. The results indicate that the criticisms are expressed and are incorporated by fashion design professional, in consumption practices. in the pursuit of sustainable business forms, creating value associated with the shared economy, the adoption of Corporate Social Responsibility, in changes in production processes and the use of lower-impact materials. We also verified that as a way of incorporating criticism as a counterpoint to the hegemonic practices of production and consumption, the movement "slow fashion" proposes not only deceleration time of production and consumption of clothes, but also empowerment and political activism in the area of fashion design. In conclusion, the research identified as a response to criticism, the existence of changes in the sector and the growing ethicization fashion.