Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Arazi, Hamid
Data de Publicação: 2018
Outros Autores: Rashidlamir, Amir, Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad, Askari Hosaini, Somayeh
Tipo de documento: Artigo
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)
Texto Completo: https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82
Resumo: The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. 
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spelling Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbersPerfil e predição do desempenho de escaladores indoorThe aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. O objetivo do estudo foi estabelecer o somatotipo, o perfil antropométrico e neuromotor de escaladores indoor. Quatorze atletas do sexo masculino de elite e 10 atletas recreacionais do sexo feminino do Irã da modalidade escalada indoor participaram da pesquisa. Todas as medidas antropométricas foram coletas conforme padronizações internacionais. Força e resistência dos membros superiores foram avaliadas por teste isométrico. Força explosiva e equilíbrio foram avaliados pelos testes Sargent jump e Star Excursion Balance (SEBT), respectivamente. O somatotipo foi calculado pelo método Heath e Carter. O coeficiente de correlação de Pearson, correlações parciais e a análise de regressão múltipla foram utilizados. Largura do ombro, percentual de gordura corporal, força e resistência dos membros superiores para as mulheres apresentaram correlação positiva com a capacidade de escalar (ranque: r = 0,46–0,70, p ≤ 0,05). Para os homens, a habilidade de escalar foi associada com a razão cintura estatura, força de preensão manual absoluta e relativa à massa corporal, ao equilíbrio e a proporção digital da mão esquerda. O desempenho no SEBT e o índice de circunferência dos membros superiores tiveram o poder de explicar 62% na variação da capacidade de escalar. É provável que diminuir a massa de gordura não tenha impacto direto no desempenho dos escaladores. Além disso, o desempenho do SEBT é capaz de prever 35% do desempenho de escalada. Portanto, parece que os exercícios de equilíbrio podem ser eficazes na melhoria do desempenho de escalada. Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil2018-03-14info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion"Avaliado por Pares",Original paperAvaliado por ParesArtigos Originaisapplication/pdfhttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p8210.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82Brazilian Journal of Kinanthropometry and Human Performance; Vol. 20 No. 1 (2018); 82-94Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano; v. 20 n. 1 (2018); 82-941980-00371415-8426reponame:Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)instname:Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)instacron:UFSCenghttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82/36092Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humanoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessArazi, HamidRashidlamir, AmirZahed Abolhasani, MohammadAskari Hosaini, Somayeh2018-09-03T11:09:42Zoai:periodicos.ufsc.br:article/47758Revistahttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/PUBhttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/oairbcdh@contato.ufsc.br || portaldeperiodicos.bu@contato.ufsc.br1980-00371415-8426opendoar:2018-09-03T11:09:42Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)false
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
Perfil e predição do desempenho de escaladores indoor
title Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
spellingShingle Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
Arazi, Hamid
title_short Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
title_full Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
title_fullStr Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
title_full_unstemmed Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
title_sort Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
author Arazi, Hamid
author_facet Arazi, Hamid
Rashidlamir, Amir
Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad
Askari Hosaini, Somayeh
author_role author
author2 Rashidlamir, Amir
Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad
Askari Hosaini, Somayeh
author2_role author
author
author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Arazi, Hamid
Rashidlamir, Amir
Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad
Askari Hosaini, Somayeh
description The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. 
publishDate 2018
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2018-03-14
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
"Avaliado por Pares",
Original paper
Avaliado por Pares
Artigos Originais
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82
10.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82
url https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82
identifier_str_mv 10.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82/36092
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv Brazilian Journal of Kinanthropometry and Human Performance; Vol. 20 No. 1 (2018); 82-94
Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano; v. 20 n. 1 (2018); 82-94
1980-0037
1415-8426
reponame:Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)
instname:Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)
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instname_str Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)
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institution UFSC
reponame_str Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)
collection Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)
repository.mail.fl_str_mv rbcdh@contato.ufsc.br || portaldeperiodicos.bu@contato.ufsc.br
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