Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2018 |
Outros Autores: | , , |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) |
Texto Completo: | https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82 |
Resumo: | The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. |
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Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbersPerfil e predição do desempenho de escaladores indoorThe aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. O objetivo do estudo foi estabelecer o somatotipo, o perfil antropométrico e neuromotor de escaladores indoor. Quatorze atletas do sexo masculino de elite e 10 atletas recreacionais do sexo feminino do Irã da modalidade escalada indoor participaram da pesquisa. Todas as medidas antropométricas foram coletas conforme padronizações internacionais. Força e resistência dos membros superiores foram avaliadas por teste isométrico. Força explosiva e equilíbrio foram avaliados pelos testes Sargent jump e Star Excursion Balance (SEBT), respectivamente. O somatotipo foi calculado pelo método Heath e Carter. O coeficiente de correlação de Pearson, correlações parciais e a análise de regressão múltipla foram utilizados. Largura do ombro, percentual de gordura corporal, força e resistência dos membros superiores para as mulheres apresentaram correlação positiva com a capacidade de escalar (ranque: r = 0,46–0,70, p ≤ 0,05). Para os homens, a habilidade de escalar foi associada com a razão cintura estatura, força de preensão manual absoluta e relativa à massa corporal, ao equilíbrio e a proporção digital da mão esquerda. O desempenho no SEBT e o índice de circunferência dos membros superiores tiveram o poder de explicar 62% na variação da capacidade de escalar. É provável que diminuir a massa de gordura não tenha impacto direto no desempenho dos escaladores. Além disso, o desempenho do SEBT é capaz de prever 35% do desempenho de escalada. Portanto, parece que os exercícios de equilíbrio podem ser eficazes na melhoria do desempenho de escalada. Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil2018-03-14info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion"Avaliado por Pares",Original paperAvaliado por ParesArtigos Originaisapplication/pdfhttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p8210.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82Brazilian Journal of Kinanthropometry and Human Performance; Vol. 20 No. 1 (2018); 82-94Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano; v. 20 n. 1 (2018); 82-941980-00371415-8426reponame:Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online)instname:Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)instacron:UFSCenghttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82/36092Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humanoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessArazi, HamidRashidlamir, AmirZahed Abolhasani, MohammadAskari Hosaini, Somayeh2018-09-03T11:09:42Zoai:periodicos.ufsc.br:article/47758Revistahttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/PUBhttps://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/oairbcdh@contato.ufsc.br || portaldeperiodicos.bu@contato.ufsc.br1980-00371415-8426opendoar:2018-09-03T11:09:42Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers Perfil e predição do desempenho de escaladores indoor |
title |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
spellingShingle |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers Arazi, Hamid |
title_short |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
title_full |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
title_fullStr |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
title_full_unstemmed |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
title_sort |
Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers |
author |
Arazi, Hamid |
author_facet |
Arazi, Hamid Rashidlamir, Amir Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad Askari Hosaini, Somayeh |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Rashidlamir, Amir Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad Askari Hosaini, Somayeh |
author2_role |
author author author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Arazi, Hamid Rashidlamir, Amir Zahed Abolhasani, Mohammad Askari Hosaini, Somayeh |
description |
The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance. |
publishDate |
2018 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2018-03-14 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion "Avaliado por Pares", Original paper Avaliado por Pares Artigos Originais |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82 10.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82 |
url |
https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.1590/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/rbcdh/article/view/1980-0037.2018v20n1p82/36092 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2018 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. Florianópolis, SC. Brasil |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Brazilian Journal of Kinanthropometry and Human Performance; Vol. 20 No. 1 (2018); 82-94 Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria e Desempenho Humano; v. 20 n. 1 (2018); 82-94 1980-0037 1415-8426 reponame:Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) instname:Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC) instacron:UFSC |
instname_str |
Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC) |
instacron_str |
UFSC |
institution |
UFSC |
reponame_str |
Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) |
collection |
Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista Brasileira de Cineantropometria & Desempenho Humano (Online) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (UFSC) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
rbcdh@contato.ufsc.br || portaldeperiodicos.bu@contato.ufsc.br |
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1789435124634353664 |