A influência de ésteres emolientes na percepção do consumidor e nas características sensoriais, físico-químicas e biometrológicas quando veiculados em emulsões corporais

• Autor(a) principal: Appas, Catherine Tolomei Fabbron [UNIFESP]
• Data de Publicação: 2017
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Repositório Institucional da UNIFESP
• Texto Completo: https://sucupira.capes.gov.br/sucupira/public/consultas/coleta/trabalhoConclusao/viewTrabalhoConclusao.jsf?popup=true&id_trabalho=5513834; https://repositorio.unifesp.br/handle/11600/50447
• topic: Emollients; Esters; Emulsion; Sensory; Consumer; Emolientes; Ésteres; Emulsão; Sensorial; Consumidor

Lipophilic emollients such as esters may influence the sensory and physico-chemical characteristics of the cosmetic emulsions in which they are present. The objective of this work was to evaluate cosmetic emulsions produced with five different liquid emollient esters in terms of sensory profile, consumer perception, physicochemical and biometrological properties. The liquid emollient esters (10% w/w) selected for incorporation into the emulsions were: Octyl palmitate, Decyl oleate, Isopropyl palmitate, Octyl stearate and Dibutyl adipate. Stability studies of the formulations involved drastic storage conditions (oven at 45°C, refrigerator at 5°C, light radiation) for 90 days. The rheological study contemplated the scanning of stress, frequency, temperature and shear viscosity. The in vivo evaluation of hydration and transepidermal water loss were measured with the Corneometer® and Tewlmeter® equipment, respectively, with 15 volunteers, within 5 hours. The sensorial profile of the formulations was carried out by a panel of 14 evaluators trained through the methodology of Sensorial Descriptive Analysis (ASD). In the consumer sensory study, three attributes difference tests (Direcional) were performed with 68 consumers. This study was the only one performed with only three formulations, the base cream without ester, the cream with octyl palmitate and the cream with isopropyl palmitate, the others were carried out with all the products. The creams with octyl stearate (F.5) and octyl palmitate (F.2) were the most stable in the conditions evaluated. In the rheological study, the creams containing some emollient ester (F.2, F.3, F.4, F.5 and F.6) had a wider linear viscoelastic region than the base cream (F.1). In addition, all creams showed similar behavior in the variation of tension, frequency and temperature and showed good spreadability. In the hydration test there was no significant difference between the base cream and the creams with some emollient ester. Whereas in the transepidermal water loss, the base cream (F.1) and the cream with octyl palmitate (F.2) were the ones that most protected the skin from the TEWL. In the sensorial profile, the attributes with the highest intensity in the evaluated creams were the spreadability, slipping and dry touch. The cream with the isopropyl palmitate (F.4) was the most difficult to spread, the decyl oleate (F.3) and isopropyl palmitate (F.4) were more difficult to slip and the base cream without emollient ester (F.1) was the product with greatest dry touch sensation. The attribute difference tests showed the importance of sensory evaluation by consumers of the product identifying those that provided greater spreadability, oiliness, dry touch, gloss and velvety sensation on the skin and proved to be an interesting analysis for comparison with the sensorial profile.