Expressões do imaginário na moda brasileira: um estudo dos processos de criação do estilista Ronaldo Fraga

• Autor(a) principal: Aguiar, Grazyella Cristina Oliveira de
• Data de Publicação: 2014
• Tipo de documento: Tese
• Idioma: por
• Título da fonte: Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_SP
• Texto Completo: https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/4673
• topic: Moda; Imaginário; Processo de criação; Cultura; Fashion; Imaginary; Creative process; Culture; CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO

This research aims at comprehending imaginary movements of the creative process designed by the Brazilian designer Ronaldo Fraga, from his national collections presented in fashion events throughout his career. This study also aims at observing how the designer expresses the imaginary of the Brazilian culture in the process of creating fashion. Three reasons justify this study: the need to reflect on methods and processes of creating fashion that can be applied in undergraduate courses; the stylist chosen, Ronaldo Fraga, is considered one of the seven most original designers in the world by the Design Museum, in London; his process of creation is unique and can contribute to the teaching of fashion design, because it adopts systems, creative translation method to materialize knowledge. This investigation has as the starting point, the hypothesis that the creative process by Fraga emerges from the redemptions of culture signs, especially from the national culture, translated through his dynamic and ephemeral world view, like the structure of the current fashion, but which is crystallized in cultural aesthetic and social identification. The research is based on three themes: the understanding of the concept of imaginary, as proposed by Durand and Maffesoli; the discussion of the theories of the process of creation, by Salles, in the studies about poetic translations by Leão; in the studies of culture, fashion, and behavior by Lipovetsky. In order to study the expressions of the imaginary creations of fashion by Fraga, this thesis used methods such as review of literature research and descriptive research field. The data collection was made in banks in search of images and access to sketchbooks. In addition, interviews published in mass media were collected and the elaboration of some open questions to an interview with the designer to know about his creation process was made. The designer's sketchbooks, as well as his collections presented in national fashion weeks were analyzed from the Critical Genetics. As a result, it was possible to organize a panorama of images, symbols and narratives in the process of creation by Ronaldo Fraga, throughout his career in the area (from the winter collection of 1996 to the summer collection of 2014/2015) which reveals subjective systems and national symbolic, cultural and aesthetic elaborations, translated in the imaginary of the stylist