Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary
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Data de Publicação: | 2021 |
Tipo de documento: | Artigo |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
Texto Completo: | https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20049 |
Resumo: | The Sophia Jobim Clothing Collection – CSJ, from the National Historical Museum – MHN, belonged to Maria Sophia Jobim Magno de Carvalho (1904-1968), who was a teacher, costume designer, journalist, researcher and collector of costumes, accessories and stories. After Sophia’s death, her entire collection was donated to the National Historical Museum – MHN. CSJ is divided into three parts: historical archive; library and technical reserve. The research studies the entire collection, but it is still in progress, so we present the partial results that, inevitably, are confused with the collector’s biography. Our approach is similar to investigations similar to those dealing with collections of clothing / fashion with a focus on the cultural biography of objects, as follows: Amy de la Haye, Lou Taylor and Eleanor Thompson (2005); Igor Kopytoff (2008); Rita Andrade (2008). This kind of perspective helps us to understand the collection that Sophia Jobim gathered, throughout her professional career, culminating in the inauguration of MIH. So it is necessary to ask: Where did these pieces come from? How were they acquired? Who were its former owners? Is it possible to verify and answer these questions? When acquiring art objects and clothing pieces/ accessories for her growing collection, Sophia seemed to structure “her museum”, as we see in this text. Thus, the cultural objects she bought went through the process of commodification and valuation, which, therefore, would reflect these values in the trajectory of her collector, and vice versa. |
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Biographic notes from a collection of indumentaryNotes biographiques d’une collection d’habillementsNotas biográficas de uma coleção de indumentária IndumentáriaColeção Biografia cultural.ClothingCollectionCultural biographyVêtementscollectionBiographie culturelleThe Sophia Jobim Clothing Collection – CSJ, from the National Historical Museum – MHN, belonged to Maria Sophia Jobim Magno de Carvalho (1904-1968), who was a teacher, costume designer, journalist, researcher and collector of costumes, accessories and stories. After Sophia’s death, her entire collection was donated to the National Historical Museum – MHN. CSJ is divided into three parts: historical archive; library and technical reserve. The research studies the entire collection, but it is still in progress, so we present the partial results that, inevitably, are confused with the collector’s biography. Our approach is similar to investigations similar to those dealing with collections of clothing / fashion with a focus on the cultural biography of objects, as follows: Amy de la Haye, Lou Taylor and Eleanor Thompson (2005); Igor Kopytoff (2008); Rita Andrade (2008). This kind of perspective helps us to understand the collection that Sophia Jobim gathered, throughout her professional career, culminating in the inauguration of MIH. So it is necessary to ask: Where did these pieces come from? How were they acquired? Who were its former owners? Is it possible to verify and answer these questions? When acquiring art objects and clothing pieces/ accessories for her growing collection, Sophia seemed to structure “her museum”, as we see in this text. Thus, the cultural objects she bought went through the process of commodification and valuation, which, therefore, would reflect these values in the trajectory of her collector, and vice versa.La collection de vêtements Sophia Jobim – CSJ, du Musée historique national – MHN, appartenait à Maria Sophia Jobim Magno de Carvalho (1904-1968), enseignante, costumière, journaliste, chercheuse et collectionneuse de costumes, d’accessoires et d’histoires. Après la mort de Sophia, toute sa collection a été donnée au Musée historique national – MHN. CSJ est divisé en trois parties: archives historiques; bibliothèque et réserve technique. La recherche étudie l’ensemble de la collection, mais elle est toujours en cours, nous présentons donc les résultats partiels qui, inévitablement, se confondent avec la biographie du collectionneur. Notre approche s’apparente à des investigations similaires à celles traitant des collections de vêtements / mode avec un focus sur la biographie culturelle des objets, comme suit: Amy de la Haye, Lou Taylor et Eleanor Thompson (2005); Igor Kopytoff (2008); Rita Andrade (2008). Ce genre de perspective nous aide à comprendre la collection que Sophia Jobim a réunie, tout au long de sa carrière professionnelle, aboutissant à l’inauguration du MIH. Il faut donc se demander: d’où viennent ces pièces? Comment ont-ils été acquis? Qui étaient ses anciens propriétaires? Est-il possible de vérifier et de répondre à ces questions? Lors de l’acquisition d’objets d’art et de vêtements / accessoires pour sa collection grandissante, Sophia a semblé structurer «son musée», comme on le voit dans ce texte. Ainsi, les objets culturels qu’elle a achetés sont passés par un processus de marchandisation et de valorisation, qui refléterait donc ces valeurs dans la trajectoire de son collectionneur, et vice versa.A coleção de Indumentária Sophia Jobim – CSJ, do Museu Histórico Nacional – MHN, pertenceu à Maria Sophia Jobim Magno de Carvalho (1904-1968), que foi professora, figurinista, jornalista, pesquisadora e colecionadora de trajes, acessórios e histórias. Após o falecimento de Sophia toda a coleção dela foi doada Museu Histórico Nacional – MHN. A Coleção Sophia Jobim – CSJ está dividida em três partes: arquivo histórico; biblioteca e reserva técnica. A pesquisa estuda toda a coleção, mas encontra-se em andamento, por isso apresentamos os resultados parciais que, inevitavelmente, se confundem com a biografia da colecionadora. Nossa abordagem se aproxima de investigações similares daquelas que tratam os acervos de indumentária / moda com o foco voltado para a biografia cultural de objetos, conforme: Amy de la Haye, Lou Taylor e Eleanor Thompson (2005); Igor Kopytoff (2008); Rita Andrade (2008). Esse tipo de perspectiva nos ajuda no entendimento da coleção que Sophia Jobim juntou, ao longo de sua trajetória profissional, culminando com a inauguração do Museu de Indumentária Histórica e Antiguidades – MIH. Por isso, é necessário perguntar: De onde essas peças vieram? Como foram adquiridas? Quem eram seus antigos donos? É possível verificar e responder estes questionamentos? Ao adquirir objetos de arte e peças / acessórios de indumentária para sua crescente coleção, Sophia parecia estruturar o “seu museu”, como vemos neste texto. Assim, os objetos culturais que ela comprou passaram pelo processo de mercantilização e valoração que, por conseguinte, iriam refletir esses valores na trajetória de sua colecionadora, e vice-versa.Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2021-09-08info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionArtigo de convidadoapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2004910.5965/25944630532021087Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 87 - 1062594-463010.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20049/13347Copyright (c) 2021 Madson Luis Gomes de Oliveirahttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessOliveira, Madson Luis Gomes de2024-02-29T12:41:01Zoai::article/20049Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2024-02-29T12:41:01Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary Notes biographiques d’une collection d’habillements Notas biográficas de uma coleção de indumentária |
title |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
spellingShingle |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary Oliveira, Madson Luis Gomes de Indumentária Coleção Biografia cultural. Clothing Collection Cultural biography Vêtements collection Biographie culturelle |
title_short |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
title_full |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
title_fullStr |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
title_full_unstemmed |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
title_sort |
Biographic notes from a collection of indumentary |
author |
Oliveira, Madson Luis Gomes de |
author_facet |
Oliveira, Madson Luis Gomes de |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Oliveira, Madson Luis Gomes de |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Indumentária Coleção Biografia cultural. Clothing Collection Cultural biography Vêtements collection Biographie culturelle |
topic |
Indumentária Coleção Biografia cultural. Clothing Collection Cultural biography Vêtements collection Biographie culturelle |
description |
The Sophia Jobim Clothing Collection – CSJ, from the National Historical Museum – MHN, belonged to Maria Sophia Jobim Magno de Carvalho (1904-1968), who was a teacher, costume designer, journalist, researcher and collector of costumes, accessories and stories. After Sophia’s death, her entire collection was donated to the National Historical Museum – MHN. CSJ is divided into three parts: historical archive; library and technical reserve. The research studies the entire collection, but it is still in progress, so we present the partial results that, inevitably, are confused with the collector’s biography. Our approach is similar to investigations similar to those dealing with collections of clothing / fashion with a focus on the cultural biography of objects, as follows: Amy de la Haye, Lou Taylor and Eleanor Thompson (2005); Igor Kopytoff (2008); Rita Andrade (2008). This kind of perspective helps us to understand the collection that Sophia Jobim gathered, throughout her professional career, culminating in the inauguration of MIH. So it is necessary to ask: Where did these pieces come from? How were they acquired? Who were its former owners? Is it possible to verify and answer these questions? When acquiring art objects and clothing pieces/ accessories for her growing collection, Sophia seemed to structure “her museum”, as we see in this text. Thus, the cultural objects she bought went through the process of commodification and valuation, which, therefore, would reflect these values in the trajectory of her collector, and vice versa. |
publishDate |
2021 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2021-09-08 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artigo de convidado |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20049 10.5965/25944630532021087 |
url |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20049 |
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10.5965/25944630532021087 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/20049/13347 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Madson Luis Gomes de Oliveira https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2021 Madson Luis Gomes de Oliveira https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 5 n. 3 (2021): Edição Especial - 1o Encontro de Gt's do Colóquio de Moda; 87 - 106 2594-4630 10.5965/10.5965/25944630532021001 reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design instname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) instacron:UDESC |
instname_str |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
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UDESC |
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UDESC |
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Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
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Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
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Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
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reamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br |
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