Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2017 |
Tipo de documento: | Dissertação |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UNIGRANRIO |
Texto Completo: | http://localhost:8080/tede/handle/tede/189 |
Resumo: | Gender is commonly associated with something binary, in which there are two distinct and opposing sexes. This binarity has already reproduced several stereotypes, establishing "normal" (and therefore "abnormal") patterns in our society. However, today, several discussions aimed at a break with this binary thinking have been exposed in the most diverse types of media. This change has also manifested itself in various categories of consumption, among which, a "genderless" fashion. This research, although involving gender issues, aims at the construction of the market. Ontologically, considers the understanding of Araujo and Kjellberg (2009) - which suggests a change in "marketing" as a whole "market-ing", as a set of practices that contribute to the construction of markets and other economic orders – their theoretical basis being fundamental in the market-making literature, which involves assumptions that marketing knowledge is performative and shapes markets. Like Golfetto and Rinallo (2006), we directed this study to the role that has a representation in the elaboration of the markets. The representations are fundamental in their elaboration, being linked to their performativity and contributing to a formation of the phenomena they represent. A network of agents (actresses and actors) involved in the "genderless" fashion market (media, stylists, brands), which is a proposal of the same would be in "neutral pieces that run away from historical and cultural stereotypes - clothes that are disconnected also of the old idea of unisex "(SANCHEZ; SCHMITT, 2016). However, what would these items of consumer goods be without gender? What does this market mean by "genderless"? How do you represent your proposal? Is not this just a market segmentation strategy? Therefore, this study aims to investigate how recreational practices describe the "genderless" fashion market. This is a research that is characterized as qualitative, with a critical bias and, considering that the discourse contained in these practices assumes a relevant role, it adopts the Critical Discourse Analysis (ACD) as a theoretical-methodological apparatus, it follows the analysis parameter of the Multimodal Discourse Theory (MACHIN, MAYR, 2012). A collection of data was performed in a virtual environment (images and texts about the "genderless" fashion market), after an initial survey, five different types of online media were defined and analyzed. (Gender Fluid, Neutral Style, Agender, Ungendered, Genderless or No Gender), are also multiple, as representations that define this fashion market. Thus, during an analysis, multiple market versions emerged (KJELLBERG; HELGESSON, 2006). Sometimes, a fashion "genderless" brings an idea of (1) revolutionary movement; at other times, there is a (2) homogenization for one of the genders (male/female); as well as certain representative practices point to just a different name attributed to an already existing (3) market segment. This work seeks to contribute, in a critical way, to the study of market practice, observing the phenomenon during a market formation, at the beginning of a construction process, or rather than that, at the "in the making" moment. |
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Barros, Denise FrancaBarros, Denise FrancaAyrosa, Eduardo André TeixieiraPessôa, Luis Alexandre Grubits de PaulaLuna, Camilla Pinto2018-07-03T19:41:47Z2017-12-13LUNA, Camilla Pinto. Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”. 2017. 128 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Administração) - Universidade do Grande Rio, Rio de Janeiro, 2017.http://localhost:8080/tede/handle/tede/189Gender is commonly associated with something binary, in which there are two distinct and opposing sexes. This binarity has already reproduced several stereotypes, establishing "normal" (and therefore "abnormal") patterns in our society. However, today, several discussions aimed at a break with this binary thinking have been exposed in the most diverse types of media. This change has also manifested itself in various categories of consumption, among which, a "genderless" fashion. This research, although involving gender issues, aims at the construction of the market. Ontologically, considers the understanding of Araujo and Kjellberg (2009) - which suggests a change in "marketing" as a whole "market-ing", as a set of practices that contribute to the construction of markets and other economic orders – their theoretical basis being fundamental in the market-making literature, which involves assumptions that marketing knowledge is performative and shapes markets. Like Golfetto and Rinallo (2006), we directed this study to the role that has a representation in the elaboration of the markets. The representations are fundamental in their elaboration, being linked to their performativity and contributing to a formation of the phenomena they represent. A network of agents (actresses and actors) involved in the "genderless" fashion market (media, stylists, brands), which is a proposal of the same would be in "neutral pieces that run away from historical and cultural stereotypes - clothes that are disconnected also of the old idea of unisex "(SANCHEZ; SCHMITT, 2016). However, what would these items of consumer goods be without gender? What does this market mean by "genderless"? How do you represent your proposal? Is not this just a market segmentation strategy? Therefore, this study aims to investigate how recreational practices describe the "genderless" fashion market. This is a research that is characterized as qualitative, with a critical bias and, considering that the discourse contained in these practices assumes a relevant role, it adopts the Critical Discourse Analysis (ACD) as a theoretical-methodological apparatus, it follows the analysis parameter of the Multimodal Discourse Theory (MACHIN, MAYR, 2012). A collection of data was performed in a virtual environment (images and texts about the "genderless" fashion market), after an initial survey, five different types of online media were defined and analyzed. (Gender Fluid, Neutral Style, Agender, Ungendered, Genderless or No Gender), are also multiple, as representations that define this fashion market. Thus, during an analysis, multiple market versions emerged (KJELLBERG; HELGESSON, 2006). Sometimes, a fashion "genderless" brings an idea of (1) revolutionary movement; at other times, there is a (2) homogenization for one of the genders (male/female); as well as certain representative practices point to just a different name attributed to an already existing (3) market segment. This work seeks to contribute, in a critical way, to the study of market practice, observing the phenomenon during a market formation, at the beginning of a construction process, or rather than that, at the "in the making" moment.Gênero é comumente associado a algo binário, em que há dois sexos distintos e opostos. Essa binariedade já causou e reproduziu diversos estereótipos, estabelecendo, inclusive, padrões de “normalidade” (e, portanto, de “anormalidade”) em nossa sociedade. No entanto, atualmente, diversas discussões direcionadas a um rompimento com esse pensamento binário têm sido expostas nos mais diversos tipos de mídias. Tal mudança também tem se manifestado em várias categorias de consumo, entre as quais, a moda “sem gênero”. Esta pesquisa, apesar de envolver questões de gênero, tem por objeto a construção do mercado e, ontologicamente, considera o entendimento de Araujo e Kjellberg (2009) – segundo o qual sugere-se uma mudança de “marketing”, como um conjunto de técnicas que contribuem para regular a troca, para “market-ing”, como um conjunto de práticas que contribuem na construção de mercados e outras ordens econômicas – sendo sua base teórica fundamentada na literatura de marketmaking, que envolve pressupostos de que o conhecimento em marketing é performativo e formata mercados. A exemplo de Golfetto e Rinallo (2006), direcionamos este estudo para o papel que a representação possui na elaboração dos mercados. As representações, dentre os tipos de práticas que constituem os mercados, são fundamentais na sua elaboração, estando ligadas à performatividade deles e contribuindo para a formação dos fenômenos por eles representados. A rede de agentes (actants e atores) envolvida no mercado da moda “sem gênero” (mídia, estilistas, marcas) coloca que a proposta do mesmo estaria baseada em “peças neutras, que fogem de estereótipos históricos e culturais – roupas que se desconectam também da antiga ideia de unissex” (SANCHEZ; SCHMITT, 2016). Mas, o que seriam esses itens de bens de consumo destituídos de gênero? O que esse mercado entende por “sem gênero”? Como representa sua proposta? Não seria essa apenas mais uma estratégia de segmentação de mercado? Então, este estudo tem por objetivo investigar como as práticas representacionais descrevem o mercado da moda “sem gênero”. Esta pesquisa se caracteriza como qualitativa, com viés crítico e, considerando que o discurso contido nessas práticas assume um relevante papel, adota-se a Análise Crítica de Discurso (ACD) como aparato teórico-metodológico, seguido pelos parâmetros de análise da Teoria Multimodal do Discurso (MACHIN; MAYR, 2012). A coleta de dados foi realizada em ambiente virtual (imagens e textos sobre o mercado da moda “sem gênero”, disponíveis em mídia online de domínio público) e, após um levantamento inicial, foram definidos cinco diferentes tipos de mídias online a serem analisadas. A partir disso, os resultados revelam que, da mesma forma em que são encontradas diferentes denominações para se referir ao termo “sem gênero” (Gênero Fluido, Estilo Neutro, Agender, Ungendered, Genderless ou No Gender), são, igualmente múltiplas, as representações que definem esse mercado da moda. Assim, durante a análise, emergiram múltiplas versões de mercado (KJELLBERG; HELGESSON, 2006). Por vezes, a moda “sem gênero” traz uma ideia de (1) movimento revolucionário; em outros momentos, há uma (2) homogeneização para um dos gêneros (masculino/feminino); bem como, certas práticas representacionais apontam para apenas mais um nome atribuído a um (3) segmento de mercado já existente. Este trabalho busca contribuir, de forma crítica, ao estudo de prática de mercado, observando-se o fenômeno durante sua formação, no início de um processo de construção, mais que isso, em um momento “in the making”.Submitted by Janser dos Santos Nascimento (janser.nascimento@unigranrio.com.br) on 2018-07-03T19:41:47Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Camilla Pinto Luna.pdf: 3259753 bytes, checksum: b7cd18a51f43fad19d629668fafc2c87 (MD5)Made available in DSpace on 2018-07-03T19:41:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Camilla Pinto Luna.pdf: 3259753 bytes, checksum: b7cd18a51f43fad19d629668fafc2c87 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-12-13CNPqapplication/pdfporUniversidade do Grande RioPrograma de Pós-Graduacão em AdministraçãoUNIGRANRIOBrasilUnigranrio::Administraçãohttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessAdministraçãoMarketing - AdministraçãoModaADMINISTRAÇÃOAnálise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesisreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UNIGRANRIOinstname:Universidade do Grande Rio (UNIGRANRIO)instacron:UNIGRANRIOLICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; charset=utf-81982http://localhost:8080/tede/bitstream/tede/189/1/license.txt4a50535e8405f611398e6e2d408dbd1bMD51CC-LICENSElicense_urllicense_urltext/plain; charset=utf-849http://localhost:8080/tede/bitstream/tede/189/2/license_url4afdbb8c545fd630ea7db775da747b2fMD52license_textlicense_texttext/html; charset=utf-80http://localhost:8080/tede/bitstream/tede/189/3/license_textd41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427eMD53license_rdflicense_rdfapplication/rdf+xml; charset=utf-80http://localhost:8080/tede/bitstream/tede/189/4/license_rdfd41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427eMD54ORIGINALCamilla Pinto Luna.pdfCamilla Pinto Luna.pdfapplication/pdf3259753http://localhost:8080/tede/bitstream/tede/189/5/Camilla+Pinto+Luna.pdfb7cd18a51f43fad19d629668fafc2c87MD55tede/1892018-07-03 16:41:47.684oai:localhost:tede/189CkxJQ0VOw4dBIERFIERJU1RSSUJVScOHw4NPIE7Dg08tRVhDTFVTSVZBCgpDb20gYSBhcHJlc2VudGHDp8OjbyBkZXN0YSBsaWNlbsOnYSwgdm9jw6ogKG8gYXV0b3IgKGVzKSBvdSBvIHRpdHVsYXIgZG9zIGRpcmVpdG9zIGRlIGF1dG9yKSBjb25jZWRlIMOgIFVuaXZlcnNpZGFkZSAKVU5JR1JBTlJJTyBvIGRpcmVpdG8gbsOjby1leGNsdXNpdm8gZGUgcmVwcm9kdXppciwgIHRyYWR1emlyIChjb25mb3JtZSBkZWZpbmlkbyBhYmFpeG8pLCBlL291IApkaXN0cmlidWlyIGEgc3VhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyAoaW5jbHVpbmRvIG8gcmVzdW1vKSBwb3IgdG9kbyBvIG11bmRvIG5vIGZvcm1hdG8gaW1wcmVzc28gZSBlbGV0csO0bmljbyBlIAplbSBxdWFscXVlciBtZWlvLCBpbmNsdWluZG8gb3MgZm9ybWF0b3Mgw6F1ZGlvIG91IHbDrWRlby4KClZvY8OqIGNvbmNvcmRhIHF1ZSBhIFVOSUdSQU5SSU8gcG9kZSwgc2VtIGFsdGVyYXIgbyBjb250ZcO6ZG8sIHRyYW5zcG9yIGEgc3VhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyAKcGFyYSBxdWFscXVlciBtZWlvIG91IGZvcm1hdG8gcGFyYSBmaW5zIGRlIHByZXNlcnZhw6fDo28uCgpWb2PDqiB0YW1iw6ltIGNvbmNvcmRhIHF1ZSBhIFVOSUdSQU5SSU8gcG9kZSBtYW50ZXIgbWFpcyBkZSB1bWEgY8OzcGlhIGRhIHN1YSB0ZXNlIG91IApkaXNzZXJ0YcOnw6NvIHBhcmEgZmlucyBkZSBzZWd1cmFuw6dhLCBiYWNrLXVwIGUgcHJlc2VydmHDp8Ojby4KClZvY8OqIGRlY2xhcmEgcXVlIGEgc3VhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyDDqSBvcmlnaW5hbCBlIHF1ZSB2b2PDqiB0ZW0gbyBwb2RlciBkZSBjb25jZWRlciBvcyBkaXJlaXRvcyBjb250aWRvcyAKbmVzdGEgbGljZW7Dp2EuIFZvY8OqIHRhbWLDqW0gZGVjbGFyYSBxdWUgbyBkZXDDs3NpdG8gZGEgc3VhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyBuw6NvLCBxdWUgc2VqYSBkZSBzZXUgCmNvbmhlY2ltZW50bywgaW5mcmluZ2UgZGlyZWl0b3MgYXV0b3JhaXMgZGUgbmluZ3XDqW0uCgpDYXNvIGEgc3VhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyBjb250ZW5oYSBtYXRlcmlhbCBxdWUgdm9jw6ogbsOjbyBwb3NzdWkgYSB0aXR1bGFyaWRhZGUgZG9zIGRpcmVpdG9zIGF1dG9yYWlzLCB2b2PDqiAKZGVjbGFyYSBxdWUgb2J0ZXZlIGEgcGVybWlzc8OjbyBpcnJlc3RyaXRhIGRvIGRldGVudG9yIGRvcyBkaXJlaXRvcyBhdXRvcmFpcyBwYXJhIGNvbmNlZGVyIMOgIFVOSUdSQU5SSU8gCm9zIGRpcmVpdG9zIGFwcmVzZW50YWRvcyBuZXN0YSBsaWNlbsOnYSwgZSBxdWUgZXNzZSBtYXRlcmlhbCBkZSBwcm9wcmllZGFkZSBkZSB0ZXJjZWlyb3MgZXN0w6EgY2xhcmFtZW50ZSAKaWRlbnRpZmljYWRvIGUgcmVjb25oZWNpZG8gbm8gdGV4dG8gb3Ugbm8gY29udGXDumRvIGRhIHRlc2Ugb3UgZGlzc2VydGHDp8OjbyBvcmEgZGVwb3NpdGFkYS4KCkNBU08gQSBURVNFIE9VIERJU1NFUlRBw4fDg08gT1JBIERFUE9TSVRBREEgVEVOSEEgU0lETyBSRVNVTFRBRE8gREUgVU0gUEFUUk9Dw41OSU8gT1UgCkFQT0lPIERFIFVNQSBBR8OKTkNJQSBERSBGT01FTlRPIE9VIE9VVFJPIE9SR0FOSVNNTyBRVUUgTsODTyBTRUpBIEEgVU5JR1JBTlJJTywgClZPQ8OKIERFQ0xBUkEgUVVFIFJFU1BFSVRPVSBUT0RPUyBFIFFVQUlTUVVFUiBESVJFSVRPUyBERSBSRVZJU8ODTyBDT01PIApUQU1Cw4lNIEFTIERFTUFJUyBPQlJJR0HDh8OVRVMgRVhJR0lEQVMgUE9SIENPTlRSQVRPIE9VIEFDT1JETy4KCkEgVU5JR1JBTlJJTyBzZSBjb21wcm9tZXRlIGEgaWRlbnRpZmljYXIgY2xhcmFtZW50ZSBvIHNldSBub21lIChzKSBvdSBvKHMpIG5vbWUocykgZG8ocykgCmRldGVudG9yKGVzKSBkb3MgZGlyZWl0b3MgYXV0b3JhaXMgZGEgdGVzZSBvdSBkaXNzZXJ0YcOnw6NvLCBlIG7Do28gZmFyw6EgcXVhbHF1ZXIgYWx0ZXJhw6fDo28sIGFsw6ltIGRhcXVlbGFzIApjb25jZWRpZGFzIHBvciBlc3RhIGxpY2Vuw6dhLgo=Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertaçõeshttp://tede.unigranrio.edu.br/PUBhttp://tede.unigranrio.edu.br/oai/requestrepositorio@instituicao.br||repositorio@instituicao.bropendoar:2018-07-03T19:41:47Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UNIGRANRIO - Universidade do Grande Rio (UNIGRANRIO)false |
dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
title |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
spellingShingle |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” Luna, Camilla Pinto Administração Marketing - Administração Moda ADMINISTRAÇÃO |
title_short |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
title_full |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
title_fullStr |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
title_full_unstemmed |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
title_sort |
Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero” |
author |
Luna, Camilla Pinto |
author_facet |
Luna, Camilla Pinto |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
Barros, Denise Franca |
dc.contributor.referee1.fl_str_mv |
Barros, Denise Franca |
dc.contributor.referee2.fl_str_mv |
Ayrosa, Eduardo André Teixieira |
dc.contributor.referee3.fl_str_mv |
Pessôa, Luis Alexandre Grubits de Paula |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Luna, Camilla Pinto |
contributor_str_mv |
Barros, Denise Franca Barros, Denise Franca Ayrosa, Eduardo André Teixieira Pessôa, Luis Alexandre Grubits de Paula |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Administração Marketing - Administração Moda |
topic |
Administração Marketing - Administração Moda ADMINISTRAÇÃO |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
ADMINISTRAÇÃO |
description |
Gender is commonly associated with something binary, in which there are two distinct and opposing sexes. This binarity has already reproduced several stereotypes, establishing "normal" (and therefore "abnormal") patterns in our society. However, today, several discussions aimed at a break with this binary thinking have been exposed in the most diverse types of media. This change has also manifested itself in various categories of consumption, among which, a "genderless" fashion. This research, although involving gender issues, aims at the construction of the market. Ontologically, considers the understanding of Araujo and Kjellberg (2009) - which suggests a change in "marketing" as a whole "market-ing", as a set of practices that contribute to the construction of markets and other economic orders – their theoretical basis being fundamental in the market-making literature, which involves assumptions that marketing knowledge is performative and shapes markets. Like Golfetto and Rinallo (2006), we directed this study to the role that has a representation in the elaboration of the markets. The representations are fundamental in their elaboration, being linked to their performativity and contributing to a formation of the phenomena they represent. A network of agents (actresses and actors) involved in the "genderless" fashion market (media, stylists, brands), which is a proposal of the same would be in "neutral pieces that run away from historical and cultural stereotypes - clothes that are disconnected also of the old idea of unisex "(SANCHEZ; SCHMITT, 2016). However, what would these items of consumer goods be without gender? What does this market mean by "genderless"? How do you represent your proposal? Is not this just a market segmentation strategy? Therefore, this study aims to investigate how recreational practices describe the "genderless" fashion market. This is a research that is characterized as qualitative, with a critical bias and, considering that the discourse contained in these practices assumes a relevant role, it adopts the Critical Discourse Analysis (ACD) as a theoretical-methodological apparatus, it follows the analysis parameter of the Multimodal Discourse Theory (MACHIN, MAYR, 2012). A collection of data was performed in a virtual environment (images and texts about the "genderless" fashion market), after an initial survey, five different types of online media were defined and analyzed. (Gender Fluid, Neutral Style, Agender, Ungendered, Genderless or No Gender), are also multiple, as representations that define this fashion market. Thus, during an analysis, multiple market versions emerged (KJELLBERG; HELGESSON, 2006). Sometimes, a fashion "genderless" brings an idea of (1) revolutionary movement; at other times, there is a (2) homogenization for one of the genders (male/female); as well as certain representative practices point to just a different name attributed to an already existing (3) market segment. This work seeks to contribute, in a critical way, to the study of market practice, observing the phenomenon during a market formation, at the beginning of a construction process, or rather than that, at the "in the making" moment. |
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2017 |
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2017-12-13 |
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LUNA, Camilla Pinto. Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”. 2017. 128 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Administração) - Universidade do Grande Rio, Rio de Janeiro, 2017. |
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LUNA, Camilla Pinto. Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”. 2017. 128 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Administração) - Universidade do Grande Rio, Rio de Janeiro, 2017. |
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Universidade do Grande Rio |
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