Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2009 |
Tipo de documento: | Dissertação |
Idioma: | por |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRPE |
Texto Completo: | http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/handle/tede2/6112 |
Resumo: | In Brazil in the 1980’s, due to an economic crisis the shoe trade in Toritama has declined. AS a result, people of the region started to make and trade jeans as a way to survive. Different ways of making garments has occured since then and a process of development was unleashed in the city which is nowadays a member of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções. Thus, the aim of this research is to outline and analyse the cultural reconversion process in the popular fashion creation of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções do Agreste de Pernambuco, particularly the process of change occured between 1980 and 2009 in Toritama, in addition to the possible implications for the local growth. It was also the aim to identify in the local fashion creation and projection the elements transposed from the massive, popular and hegemonic cultures through the ebulition (bubble up) and dripping (trickle down) movements. The research used the qualitative survey to reach the results, thus the main methodological category priorizing the history through semi structured interviews. Those ones showed that in the last 30 years there has been current cycles of hibridization in the popular fashion within the massive interaction and trade, this made changes in the way of acquisition, presentation, and manipulation of cloth, garment accessories, machinery and technology used, all of them were reused as a new techinique creation, production, commercialization of jeans, for instance the inclusion of previous procedure plans which raised a productive globalization and restructured the local development. Most of those reconversions increased, due to governmental and non-governmental support, such as projects, training courses, fashion and business events. If on the one hand the activity of creation and production of fashion developed job and income in Toritama, it was also stablished organizational structure and partnerships. On the other hand it also unleashed a process of environmental threaten. |
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CALLOU, Ângelo Brás FernandesSANTOS, Maria Salett TaukROCHA, Maria Alice VasconcelosROCHA, Anita Aline Albuquerquehttp://lattes.cnpq.br/2183987604151979ALVES, Rosiane Pereira2016-12-13T12:20:43Z2009-08-27ALVES, Rosiane Pereira. Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco. 2009. 100 f. Dissertação (Programa de Pós-Graduação em Extensão Rural e Desenvolvimento Local) - Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco, Recife.http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/handle/tede2/6112In Brazil in the 1980’s, due to an economic crisis the shoe trade in Toritama has declined. AS a result, people of the region started to make and trade jeans as a way to survive. Different ways of making garments has occured since then and a process of development was unleashed in the city which is nowadays a member of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções. Thus, the aim of this research is to outline and analyse the cultural reconversion process in the popular fashion creation of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções do Agreste de Pernambuco, particularly the process of change occured between 1980 and 2009 in Toritama, in addition to the possible implications for the local growth. It was also the aim to identify in the local fashion creation and projection the elements transposed from the massive, popular and hegemonic cultures through the ebulition (bubble up) and dripping (trickle down) movements. The research used the qualitative survey to reach the results, thus the main methodological category priorizing the history through semi structured interviews. Those ones showed that in the last 30 years there has been current cycles of hibridization in the popular fashion within the massive interaction and trade, this made changes in the way of acquisition, presentation, and manipulation of cloth, garment accessories, machinery and technology used, all of them were reused as a new techinique creation, production, commercialization of jeans, for instance the inclusion of previous procedure plans which raised a productive globalization and restructured the local development. Most of those reconversions increased, due to governmental and non-governmental support, such as projects, training courses, fashion and business events. If on the one hand the activity of creation and production of fashion developed job and income in Toritama, it was also stablished organizational structure and partnerships. On the other hand it also unleashed a process of environmental threaten.A partir de década de 1980, em meio à crise econômica que atingiu o Brasil, e com o declínio da atividade calçadista em Toritama, as pessoas dessa localidade passaram a produzir e comercializar calça jeans, como uma estratégia de sobrevivência. Desde então, ocorreram diferentes mudanças no modo de criar e confeccionar essa peça do vestuário, desencadeando um processo de desenvolvimento no município, hoje integrante do Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções de Pernambuco. Assim sendo, a presente pesquisa teve por objetivo analisar os processos de reconversões culturais na criação da moda popular do Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções do Agreste de Pernambuco, particularmente os processos de mudanças ocorridos no design de moda, entre 1980 e 2009, no município de Toritama, e suas possíveis implicações no desenvolvimento local. Buscou-se também identificar na criação e projeção da moda local os elementos transpostos das culturas popular e massiva hegemônica, por meio dos movimentos de ebulição (bubble-up) e gotejamento (trickle-down). Para tanto, realizou-se um estudo de caso, de caráter qualitativo. Elegeu-se como principal categoria metodológica a história oral, priorizando como procedimento técnico as entrevistas semiestruturadas. Estas revelaram ter havido, nesses quase trinta anos, sucessivos ciclos de hibridizações na moda popular em meio à interação com o massivo e com o mercado, que gerou mudanças na forma de aquisição, apresentação e manipulação do tecido, aviamentos, maquinaria e tecnologia empregada, todas reconvertidas em novas técnicas de criação, produção e comercialização da calça jeans, como, por exemplo, a inclusão do planejamento prévio nos procedimentos de trabalho, com repercussão, em meio aos processos de globalização e reestruturação produtiva, no desenvolvimento local. Muitas dessas reconversões se intensificaram em função das intervenções governamentais e não governamentais, tais como projetos, cursos de capacitação, eventos de moda e negócio. E se por um lado a atividade ligada à criação e produção da moda gerou no município de Toritama emprego e renda, criou uma estrutura organizacional e estabeleceu parcerias; por outro lado, também desencadeou um processo de comprometimento ambiental.Submitted by (lucia.rodrigues@ufrpe.br) on 2016-12-13T12:20:43Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Rosiane Pereira Alves.pdf: 894562 bytes, checksum: 4071e418484d0745d8eead232782aa40 (MD5)Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-13T12:20:43Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Rosiane Pereira Alves.pdf: 894562 bytes, checksum: 4071e418484d0745d8eead232782aa40 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-08-27Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPESapplication/pdfporUniversidade Federal Rural de PernambucoPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Extensão Rural e Desenvolvimento LocalUFRPEBrasilDepartamento de EducaçãoDesignModaReconversão culturalDesenvolvimento localToritama(PE)Cultural reconversionsFashionDesignLocal developmentEspinheiro-pretoAGRONOMIA::EXTENSAO RURALModa e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambucoinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesis38923810819648193996006006006007124334461228751377-43779398013263402442075167498588264571info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRPEinstname:Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco (UFRPE)instacron:UFRPELICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; charset=utf-82165http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/bitstream/tede2/6112/1/license.txtbd3efa91386c1718a7f26a329fdcb468MD51ORIGINALRosiane Pereira Alves.pdfRosiane Pereira Alves.pdfapplication/pdf894562http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/bitstream/tede2/6112/2/Rosiane+Pereira+Alves.pdf4071e418484d0745d8eead232782aa40MD52tede2/61122023-06-28 10:00:28.741oai:tede2: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Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertaçõeshttp://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede/PUBhttp://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/oai/requestbdtd@ufrpe.br ||bdtd@ufrpe.bropendoar:2024-05-28T12:33:56.093062Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRPE - Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco (UFRPE)false |
dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
title |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
spellingShingle |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco ALVES, Rosiane Pereira Design Moda Reconversão cultural Desenvolvimento local Toritama(PE) Cultural reconversions Fashion Design Local development Espinheiro-preto AGRONOMIA::EXTENSAO RURAL |
title_short |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
title_full |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
title_fullStr |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
title_full_unstemmed |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
title_sort |
Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco |
author |
ALVES, Rosiane Pereira |
author_facet |
ALVES, Rosiane Pereira |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
CALLOU, Ângelo Brás Fernandes |
dc.contributor.referee1.fl_str_mv |
SANTOS, Maria Salett Tauk |
dc.contributor.referee2.fl_str_mv |
ROCHA, Maria Alice Vasconcelos |
dc.contributor.referee3.fl_str_mv |
ROCHA, Anita Aline Albuquerque |
dc.contributor.authorLattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/2183987604151979 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
ALVES, Rosiane Pereira |
contributor_str_mv |
CALLOU, Ângelo Brás Fernandes SANTOS, Maria Salett Tauk ROCHA, Maria Alice Vasconcelos ROCHA, Anita Aline Albuquerque |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Design Moda Reconversão cultural Desenvolvimento local Toritama(PE) Cultural reconversions Fashion Design Local development Espinheiro-preto |
topic |
Design Moda Reconversão cultural Desenvolvimento local Toritama(PE) Cultural reconversions Fashion Design Local development Espinheiro-preto AGRONOMIA::EXTENSAO RURAL |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
AGRONOMIA::EXTENSAO RURAL |
description |
In Brazil in the 1980’s, due to an economic crisis the shoe trade in Toritama has declined. AS a result, people of the region started to make and trade jeans as a way to survive. Different ways of making garments has occured since then and a process of development was unleashed in the city which is nowadays a member of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções. Thus, the aim of this research is to outline and analyse the cultural reconversion process in the popular fashion creation of Arranjo Produtivo Local de Confecções do Agreste de Pernambuco, particularly the process of change occured between 1980 and 2009 in Toritama, in addition to the possible implications for the local growth. It was also the aim to identify in the local fashion creation and projection the elements transposed from the massive, popular and hegemonic cultures through the ebulition (bubble up) and dripping (trickle down) movements. The research used the qualitative survey to reach the results, thus the main methodological category priorizing the history through semi structured interviews. Those ones showed that in the last 30 years there has been current cycles of hibridization in the popular fashion within the massive interaction and trade, this made changes in the way of acquisition, presentation, and manipulation of cloth, garment accessories, machinery and technology used, all of them were reused as a new techinique creation, production, commercialization of jeans, for instance the inclusion of previous procedure plans which raised a productive globalization and restructured the local development. Most of those reconversions increased, due to governmental and non-governmental support, such as projects, training courses, fashion and business events. If on the one hand the activity of creation and production of fashion developed job and income in Toritama, it was also stablished organizational structure and partnerships. On the other hand it also unleashed a process of environmental threaten. |
publishDate |
2009 |
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv |
2009-08-27 |
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv |
2016-12-13T12:20:43Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
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info:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesis |
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publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.citation.fl_str_mv |
ALVES, Rosiane Pereira. Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco. 2009. 100 f. Dissertação (Programa de Pós-Graduação em Extensão Rural e Desenvolvimento Local) - Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco, Recife. |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/handle/tede2/6112 |
identifier_str_mv |
ALVES, Rosiane Pereira. Moda e desenvolvimento local: reconversões culturais na criação e confecção do jeans em Toritama – Pernambuco. 2009. 100 f. Dissertação (Programa de Pós-Graduação em Extensão Rural e Desenvolvimento Local) - Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco, Recife. |
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http://www.tede2.ufrpe.br:8080/tede2/handle/tede2/6112 |
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