Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application
Autor(a) principal: | |
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Data de Publicação: | 2022 |
Tipo de documento: | Tese |
Idioma: | eng |
Título da fonte: | Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP |
Texto Completo: | https://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-25082022-173850/ |
Resumo: | Human skin is attacked daily by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollutants. Such aggressions can promote lipid peroxidation mediated by free radicals in cells, generating DNA damage and inflammatory processes, in addition to endogenous vitamin E depletion. The use of antioxidant cosmetic products has potential for treatment; however, the stability and permeation of these active ingredients may be a limiting factor in their use. Thus, the present work aimed at the development and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E and their dispersions in bigels, focusing on cosmetic application. The results derived from this investigation are ordered in three articles, being: (1) review on organogels in the cosmetic area; (2) application of organogels containing vitamin E in systems of bigels, their physicochemical characterization and evaluation of efficacy in vitro and ex vivo; and (3) characterization of organogels containing vitamin E regarding their microstructure and rheological profile. The results indicated that despite the potential for permeation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives through the skin, increased stability and sensory modification, organogels were still little explored in the cosmetic area. The bigels were characterized as weak viscoelastic oil-in-water gels, with adequate stability determined by thermal and centrifugal stress. The presence of vitamin E generated little influence on the rheological profile and efficacy in vitro and ex vivo of the bigels, emphasizing the need for further studies in the presence of stress in the biological sample. Organogels were characterized as weak pseudoplastic gels. The type of organogelling agent was relevantly influenced in the presence of vitamin E. 12-Hydroxysesteric acid had a reduction in gel strength, while candelilla wax showed increased strength. All phase transition temperatures were reduced in the presence of vitamin E. The results indicated the potential use of organogels and bigels in the delivery of vitamin E for topical application, enabling the development of formulations with stability and modulation of the rheological profile as needed. |
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Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic applicationPreparação e caracterização de organogéis contendo vitamina E para aplicação cosmética12-hydroxystearic acidÁcido 12 hidroxiesteáricoBigéisBigelsCandelilla waxCera de candelillaOrganogéisOrganogelsVitamin EVitamina EHuman skin is attacked daily by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollutants. Such aggressions can promote lipid peroxidation mediated by free radicals in cells, generating DNA damage and inflammatory processes, in addition to endogenous vitamin E depletion. The use of antioxidant cosmetic products has potential for treatment; however, the stability and permeation of these active ingredients may be a limiting factor in their use. Thus, the present work aimed at the development and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E and their dispersions in bigels, focusing on cosmetic application. The results derived from this investigation are ordered in three articles, being: (1) review on organogels in the cosmetic area; (2) application of organogels containing vitamin E in systems of bigels, their physicochemical characterization and evaluation of efficacy in vitro and ex vivo; and (3) characterization of organogels containing vitamin E regarding their microstructure and rheological profile. The results indicated that despite the potential for permeation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives through the skin, increased stability and sensory modification, organogels were still little explored in the cosmetic area. The bigels were characterized as weak viscoelastic oil-in-water gels, with adequate stability determined by thermal and centrifugal stress. The presence of vitamin E generated little influence on the rheological profile and efficacy in vitro and ex vivo of the bigels, emphasizing the need for further studies in the presence of stress in the biological sample. Organogels were characterized as weak pseudoplastic gels. The type of organogelling agent was relevantly influenced in the presence of vitamin E. 12-Hydroxysesteric acid had a reduction in gel strength, while candelilla wax showed increased strength. All phase transition temperatures were reduced in the presence of vitamin E. The results indicated the potential use of organogels and bigels in the delivery of vitamin E for topical application, enabling the development of formulations with stability and modulation of the rheological profile as needed.A pele humana é agredida diariamente pela radiação ultravioleta (UV) e poluentes. Tais agressões podem promover a peroxidação lipídica mediada por radicais livres nas células, gerando danos ao DNA e processos inflamatórios, ademais da depleção da vitamina E endógena. O uso de produtos cosméticos antioxidantes apresenta potencial para o tratamento, porém, a estabilidade e permeação desses ingredientes ativos pode ser um limitante em sua utilização. Assim, o presente trabalho teve como objetivo o desenvolvimento e caracterização de organogéis contendo vitamina E e suas dispersões em bigéis, visando aplicação cosmética. Os resultados derivados dessa investigação estão ordenados em três artigos, sendo: (1) revisão sobre organogéis na área cosmética; (2) aplicação de organogéis contendo vitamina E em sistemas de bigéis, sua caracterização físico-química e avaliação de eficácia in vitro e ex vivo; e (3) caracterização de organogéis contendo vitamina E quanto à sua microestrutura e perfil reológico. Os resultados indicaram que apesar do potencial na permeação de ativos hidrofílicos e hidrofóbicos pela pele, aumento de estabilidade e modificação no sensorial, os organogéis ainda foram pouco explorados na área cosmética. Os bigéis foram caracterizados como géis viscoelásticos fracos tipo óleo-em-água, com estabilidade adequada determinada por estresse térmico e centrífugo. A presença de vitamina E gerou pouca influência no perfil reológico e eficácia in vitro e ex vivo dos bigéis, ressaltando a necessitando de estudos posteriores na presença de estresse na amostra biológica. Os organogéis foram caracterizados como géis pseudoplásticos fracos. O tipo de organogelificante sofreu influência relevante na presença da vitamina E, sendo que o ácido 12-hidroxiesteárico teve redução na força do gel, enquanto a cera de candelila apresentou aumento de força. Todas as temperaturas de transição de fases foram reduzidas na presença de vitamina E. Os resultados indicaram o potencial uso de organogéis e bigéis na veiculação de vitamina E para aplicação tópica, possibilitando o desenvolvimento de formulações com estabilidade e modulação de perfil reológico conforme a necessidade.Biblioteca Digitais de Teses e Dissertações da USPBaby, André RolimMartinez, Renata Miliani2022-07-08info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesisapplication/pdfhttps://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-25082022-173850/reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USPinstname:Universidade de São Paulo (USP)instacron:USPLiberar o conteúdo para acesso público.info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccesseng2024-07-08T13:00:15Zoai:teses.usp.br:tde-25082022-173850Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertaçõeshttp://www.teses.usp.br/PUBhttp://www.teses.usp.br/cgi-bin/mtd2br.plvirginia@if.usp.br|| atendimento@aguia.usp.br||virginia@if.usp.bropendoar:27212024-07-08T13:00:15Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP - Universidade de São Paulo (USP)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application Preparação e caracterização de organogéis contendo vitamina E para aplicação cosmética |
title |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
spellingShingle |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application Martinez, Renata Miliani 12-hydroxystearic acid Ácido 12 hidroxiesteárico Bigéis Bigels Candelilla wax Cera de candelilla Organogéis Organogels Vitamin E Vitamina E |
title_short |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
title_full |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
title_fullStr |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
title_full_unstemmed |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
title_sort |
Preparation and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E for cosmetic application |
author |
Martinez, Renata Miliani |
author_facet |
Martinez, Renata Miliani |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv |
Baby, André Rolim |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Martinez, Renata Miliani |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
12-hydroxystearic acid Ácido 12 hidroxiesteárico Bigéis Bigels Candelilla wax Cera de candelilla Organogéis Organogels Vitamin E Vitamina E |
topic |
12-hydroxystearic acid Ácido 12 hidroxiesteárico Bigéis Bigels Candelilla wax Cera de candelilla Organogéis Organogels Vitamin E Vitamina E |
description |
Human skin is attacked daily by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollutants. Such aggressions can promote lipid peroxidation mediated by free radicals in cells, generating DNA damage and inflammatory processes, in addition to endogenous vitamin E depletion. The use of antioxidant cosmetic products has potential for treatment; however, the stability and permeation of these active ingredients may be a limiting factor in their use. Thus, the present work aimed at the development and characterization of organogels containing vitamin E and their dispersions in bigels, focusing on cosmetic application. The results derived from this investigation are ordered in three articles, being: (1) review on organogels in the cosmetic area; (2) application of organogels containing vitamin E in systems of bigels, their physicochemical characterization and evaluation of efficacy in vitro and ex vivo; and (3) characterization of organogels containing vitamin E regarding their microstructure and rheological profile. The results indicated that despite the potential for permeation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives through the skin, increased stability and sensory modification, organogels were still little explored in the cosmetic area. The bigels were characterized as weak viscoelastic oil-in-water gels, with adequate stability determined by thermal and centrifugal stress. The presence of vitamin E generated little influence on the rheological profile and efficacy in vitro and ex vivo of the bigels, emphasizing the need for further studies in the presence of stress in the biological sample. Organogels were characterized as weak pseudoplastic gels. The type of organogelling agent was relevantly influenced in the presence of vitamin E. 12-Hydroxysesteric acid had a reduction in gel strength, while candelilla wax showed increased strength. All phase transition temperatures were reduced in the presence of vitamin E. The results indicated the potential use of organogels and bigels in the delivery of vitamin E for topical application, enabling the development of formulations with stability and modulation of the rheological profile as needed. |
publishDate |
2022 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2022-07-08 |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis |
format |
doctoralThesis |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-25082022-173850/ |
url |
https://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-25082022-173850/ |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
eng |
language |
eng |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
|
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Liberar o conteúdo para acesso público. info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Liberar o conteúdo para acesso público. |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.coverage.none.fl_str_mv |
|
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Biblioteca Digitais de Teses e Dissertações da USP |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Biblioteca Digitais de Teses e Dissertações da USP |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP instname:Universidade de São Paulo (USP) instacron:USP |
instname_str |
Universidade de São Paulo (USP) |
instacron_str |
USP |
institution |
USP |
reponame_str |
Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP |
collection |
Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP - Universidade de São Paulo (USP) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
virginia@if.usp.br|| atendimento@aguia.usp.br||virginia@if.usp.br |
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1815257338409385984 |